Detailed Elk Wiring questions

[felixrosbergen]

What Outdoor siren should I use? Can 150RT be directly power by the M1? (150RT states 1.25A power draw, M1 states output power limited to 1A) or is a separate driver needed?

If mounting the strobe SL1 to the outdoor siren (e.g. 150RT) does it need separate wiring? I plan to run 18/4 Firewire to the siren and use 2 conductor to power the siren and 2 to monitor the tamper. Do I need to run additional wiring or does the SL1 ‘piggyback’ with the siren? If it doesn’t piggyback and needs separate wiring where does it connect to? If i want to be able to operate the strobe independent from the siren and still monitor the tamper in the 150RT i assume i will need to run 2 18/4 firewires correct?

What wiring to run from M1DBH to M1XSP? 22/4 or Cat5? DBH needs RJ45 plug but does 22 gauge fit in RJ45 plug (Cat5 is typically 24 gauge). ?

 

[carry15+1]

I ran separate wiring for my strobe. When the siren shuts down after 5 minutes, or whatever you have it programmed to do, I want the strobe to keep on flashing. The siren is connected to output #2, and the strobe is connected to a separate relay and turned on/off via a rule. I drive my 150RT directly from output #2 and haven't noticed any problem.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

carry15+1 is giving good advice above suggesting to run the strobe and siren on separate runs. You do want to run the strobe and have it continually flash until somone disarms the system (vs. the siren which has a timeout).

Reason is if the wife ever comes home and sees the strobe flashing, she will know an alarm condition has happened and may not elect to enter the house.

I believe there is a good writeup on this methodology on Elk's website M1 rules/tips section.

 

[rfdesq]

I believe there is a good writeup on this methodology on Elk's website M1 rules/tips section.

Also do a search on CT. There is good discussion about not confusing the strobe ground with the siren ground. I use a separate power supply for the siren/strobe since I use two sirens/strobes on all of my installs and that overcurrents the M1. I use 18/2, no need for fire wire, on the sirens and 22/4 for the strobes/tampers. Good advice on letting the strobe run after the siren times out, not only for owner recognition, but for police/helicopter who may not arrive until after the siren times out.

 

[Photon]

I have a different view concerning the strobe. I don't think it is a good idea for it to keep flashing for hours or days. It needs to be on just long enough to help the police or fire dept find the place. If they are not notified, it can turn off after 30-60 minutes or so. It seems like a bit of an advertisement - "There is a broken door or window here; come on in!" I'm planning on having the primary method of disarming the system being by keyfob while still out by the street. When the system becomes disarmed, a rule will check to see if a flag was set by an earlier violation. If set, the strobe is turned on again. Maybe the siren as well. Wife and daughter will be trained to not eneter in that case.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I have a different view concerning the strobe. I don't think it is a good idea for it to keep flashing for hours or days. It needs to be on just long enough to help the police or fire dept find the place. If they are not notified, it can turn off after 30-60 minutes or so. It seems like a bit of an advertisement - "There is a broken door or window here; come on in!"

I respectfully disagree as I don't believe a burglar would even consider entering a house with the possiblity that a silent (or any type) of alarm was activated. But, I guess you just never know...

 

[felixrosbergen]

Thanks all for the contributions so far.

I did a search and found something about making sure to connect the siren neg to the right terminal otherwise i wont turn off. I didn't see anything about a ground.

Link

Do the siren/strobe need ground? I had not read anything about that.

If i want to run the strobe and siren indepently and monitor the tamper would a 18/4 (for strobe and siren) and a 22/2 (or more likely a 22/4) for the tamper be sufficient?

 

[rfdesq]

Thanks all for the contributions so far.

I did a search and found something about making sure to connect the siren neg to the right terminal otherwise i wont turn off. I didn't see anything about a ground.

Link

Do the siren/strobe need ground? I had not read anything about that.

If i want to run the strobe and siren indepently and monitor the tamper would a 18/4 (for strobe and siren) and a 22/2 (or more likely a 22/4) for the tamper be sufficient?

I think the link you found is one by me, I learned the hard way. The M1 didn't blow up but it sure made a lot of noise. Use the two Output 2 connections directly to the siren, do not tie either side to the negative legs on the zone inputs. The strobe and tamper can use a common negative on the zone inputs. 18/4 would work for the siren/strobe, two for the siren and two for the strobe. 22/2 will work for the tamper and you will have one wire left over. Just tie the negative end of the tamper to the negative side of the 18 gauge strobe wire. Am I making any sense?

 

[LaurentR]

What Outdoor siren should I use? Can 150RT be directly power by the M1? (150RT states 1.25A power draw, M1 states output power limited to 1A) or is a separate driver needed?

If you're worried about that, the 150RT has the "MilliMiser" setting (which really is cutting a wire and splicing with another), which basically drops current needs in half (700mA), which is within the Out2 rating. That's what I did, and I promise the siren is still seriously loud... Note that the SL1 also draws power and you don't want to notice you're pulling to much power and have the Elk shutdown when it's in alarm.

Laurent