Elk m1 wiring

[mschubert9]

I just received my elk m1 and all of my window sensors and keypads. I have all wireless window sensors and motion sensors. However, I am new to this and not sure where to start with the wiring. I know I need to wire the wireless sensor that I got to the actual system. I also know that I need to wire my ethernet module to the main system. I am assuming that I also need to wire the keypads and the siren to the main system.

My problem is that I am not sure which wires I will need. I am thinking that I need a cat5 wire for the ethernet but unsure what I need to hook up the siren/keypads/wireless module.

I have read some posts on here and am hoping that someone can help me. I'm new to the wiring and alarm/ha install. And my wife will kill me if I am unable to do this on my own now! B)

Thanks for your help.

 

[AceCannon]

It isn't difficult, you should be fine. But I highly recommend you read the entire M1G installation manual. At least twice. (Do this before you attempt to wire a damned thing)

Wiring that worked for me:
wired window and door sensors: 22/4
keypads: cat5e
motions: cat5e
siren: 18/2

 

[Steve]

Yea, If you are going to install (and support) this on your own (so your wife doesn't kill you), you really need to learn the basics and stuff. We could all spend alot of time here telling you exactly what wires to connect where but in the long run that would do you a disservice. If you are going to DIY then you need to jump in with both feet. I would much rather spend time trying to clear up confusion and helping with specific questions than writing the manual all over again. I agree that you should first relax and RTFM carefully. At least the first section on wiring and stuff. It is actually very complete and easy to follow. Many of your devices like the Keypad, wireless receiver, etc will connect to the 4 wire RS-485 bus. XEP connects to main serial port and other stuff connects to various spots on the M1. It's all detailed in the manual.

Keypads usually use Cat5 or 22/4
Things connecting to the RS485 bus usually use 22/4

Spend some time with your friend (the manual) and ask more specific questions as you need to. Good luck and welcome...

 

[standon]

I just received my elk m1 and all of my window sensors and keypads. I have all wireless window sensors and motion sensors. However, I am new to this and not sure where to start with the wiring. I know I need to wire the wireless sensor that I got to the actual system. I also know that I need to wire my ethernet module to the main system. I am assuming that I also need to wire the keypads and the siren to the main system.

My problem is that I am not sure which wires I will need. I am thinking that I need a cat5 wire for the ethernet but unsure what I need to hook up the siren/keypads/wireless module.

I have read some posts on here and am hoping that someone can help me. I'm new to the wiring and alarm/ha install. And my wife will kill me if I am unable to do this on my own now! B)

Thanks for your help.

For my system I've needed a mix of (from least to most) 4 conductor alarm wire (you could probably find some at HD, even 5 conductor will work they'll call it thermostat wire), 2 conductor wire and cat5. I use a databus hub (Elk-M1DBH) since use Cat5 for a lot of my other systems. The ethernet module will just use the serial port on the M1, but then you'll run Cat5 to a switch or whatever. I'll recommend the Cat5 Ezjacks and corresponding crimpers if you're making a lot of Cat5 connections, especially with a jack at both ends. It gets pretty tiring to run back and forth trying to figure out which side is crimped wrong.

 

[AceCannon]

, but then you'll run Cat5 to a switch or whatever. I'll recommend the Cat5 Ezjacks and corresponding crimpers if you're making a lot of Cat5 connections, especially with a jack at both ends. It gets pretty tiring to run back and forth trying to figure out which side is crimped wrong.

I hate and do not trust myself crimping rj45's. In my wiring plan, I decided to avoid them completely. So I used a patch panel in the closet. In remote locations, I used keystone jacks with punchdowns. Once everything was terminated to rj45 jacks (not plugs), I then used inexpensive Monoprice patch cables (available in many diff lengths from 6 inches to 100ft, many diff colors) to make the connections. Not a single patch panel punch down or keystone has had a problem (prob 80 runs or so, terminated on both ends).

For instance, in the rooms where the Nuvo keypads are located, I punched down the cat5e to a keystone jack, then used 6" cat5e patch cables between the keystone and the rj45 jack on the keypad. In the closet, another short patch cable goes from the patch panel to the Nuvo EZ-Port. The picture below shows Nuvo keypad connections (orange), also Elk devices going to a DBH (yellow). (One of these days I will make it look all pretty and stuff)

 

[Steve]

RJ45 plugs are not hard with the EZ-RJ45s. Makes it alot easier than you can imagine. Since switching to those I have never had a bad plug. I have had a few situations where there wires 'switched channels' when inserted but that's the beauty of the EZ-RJ, you check the wires after they are inserted. All you do is pull the wires back out fix the crossover and reinsert. When you see its right, crimp and done. It's almost impossible to mess them up/ The only trouble I have sometimes is stupid Cat5 cable that doesn't stripe the white wires. All of the whites are just solid white and twisted with their paired color. So, if you untwist them all at the same time you may not realize which white is which. You just have to go slower on those and be more careful.

 

[standon]

RJ45 plugs are not hard with the EZ-RJ45s. Makes it alot easier than you can imagine. Since switching to those I have never had a bad plug. I have had a few situations where there wires 'switched channels' when inserted but that's the beauty of the EZ-RJ, you check the wires after they are inserted. All you do is pull the wires back out fix the crossover and reinsert. When you see its right, crimp and done. It's almost impossible to mess them up/ The only trouble I have sometimes is stupid Cat5 cable that doesn't stripe the white wires. All of the whites are just solid white and twisted with their paired color. So, if you untwist them all at the same time you may not realize which white is which. You just have to go slower on those and be more careful.

I used regular rj45 jacks for a lot of my installation, what a mistake! You're right, with the EZ RJ45 jacks, you can see when they slip out of the channel, with regular ones you don't know until you use a tester. Even then it doesn't tell you which side is wrong. I can't count how many times I'd guess the wrong side and run back and forth to check the terminations. I haven't had any issues since I switched to EZ RJ45.

 

[gacevich]

+1 on the EX RJ45. I also got a cable tester to check each cat5 after i attached the plugs.

 

[felixrosbergen]

+1 on the EZRJ45. Just strip about 3inch or so of the wire and push plenty of the through so you can clearly see and check the order of the conductors. Leave some extra space so you can cut and try again it it doesn't work out.

Although i am quite careful about lining up the colors and such about 1 in 15 or so i still seem to mess up. Same occurs with keystone jacks though...DEFINETELY get a LAN tested (cheap one) to check for shorts/opens before you plug any expensive gear into it.

I use Cat5e between ELK and DBH and between DBH and keypads/expanders...

Also +1 on the 'Read the manual'. The Elk manual in particular is really excellent and very clear. Normally I am not much of a 'read the manual' kind of guy, but as the toys get more expensive and complex i find myself being more careful.

Make sure to cover up the Elk battery leads so no other wires can come in contact with it. I had an accident and a databus wire touched the battery leads and my Elk went poof!!! Looking back I should have known and kick myself...a 12v battery can pack a pretty good punch if shorted.

 

[cyberk]

DBH is a must! Also I suggest you homerun all the contacts, you'll be glad you did in the long run. Not sure how many zones you have but I needed an input expander.

1. For keypads you will need cat5, how you decide to crimp these is up to you, I used trade style beanie connectors. If you don't have the DBH you will kick yourself
2. Use 2 conductor where ever possible except for when wiring motions/smokes, I believe 4 or even 6 conductor will be good for those. 4 conductor is generally fine but I used a motion/glass break sensor which needed 6 conductors, I simply used cat5 for those.

Suggestions for setup
1. Install DBH
2. Installed 1 keypad (read instructions on how to change keypad ID in case you are adding more than 1)
3. Connect your indoor siren to output 1. You might also need to connect your output 2, I'm not sure which one but my panel would not stop beeping until I connected one or the other. I believe someone told me that bridging it with a resitor will suffise. Read up on that first!
4. Make sure you hook up the battery correctly!
5. I would power up the system on a bench and make sure everything works, don't forget to do bus mode enrollment!
6. RTFM! RTFM! RTFM! Not just for the M1G but for every add-on or card you are also installing aswell. You will need to read it once, twice, thrice! Especially if you're not in the field!

7. DO NOT CONNECT/DISCONNECT ANYTHING WHILE THE M1G IS POWERED UP! POWER IT OFF THEN PLAY WITH CONNECTIONS!