I have tested the transformers both connected and disconnected from their respective loads. The elk transformer is used with the control and the honeywell transformer is being used with the p212s.
I don't believe that there is any adjustment for the outputs but I will take a closer look at the board.
I don't understand what you mean by "unit". The p212s is being used with a DBH and an input expander at this point and the voltage is higher than 13vdc with no load connected to it. I forget the exact numer but I think it was at least 14vdc.
Again, it is not much past 13.5 and I believe it is around 14vdc and goes as high as 16vdc with the battery connected and charging.
The batery measures 13.9 volts with no load and the p212s outputs will get down to that same level when it is all hooked up and running. This wouldn't bother me but the charger is going up and down between 14 volts and 16 volts periodically.
Why do you say that the batery has been damaged? All of it;s cells are charged and it's outputting 13.9 volts with no load.
Mike, you're reading way too much into this.
A transformer is a transformer is a transformer...only difference is how close to spec the output is and what the VA rating is....and in the case of the two units, it's close enough to really not matter in this case. The only variable is whether or not the secondary is fused or PTC protected.
Comparing the panel to the 212S is not a valid test.
Simplify. Remove the panel from the equation. Run the 212 as it's own standalone power supply and test from there. The connection to the panel is inconsequential and not important...it's only used to report to the M1 and/or allow the output to be triggered, the supply should run irregardless of a connection to the host panel. You're worrying and reading too much into it at this connection, same with the spare terminal and wiring. It's not part of the equation.
The transformer(s) are fine in this case, nor is there a problem with the wall voltage. This is not part of the equation that needs to be investigated further. If the supply couldn't keep up with the load or charge the battery, then you'd have an idea to look here, but not in this case.
The battery you have has 2 problems....first, it's not within spec of the maximum size the charger supports, so it may have damaged the supply (we don't know). Second, the battery, by heating up and boiling over, is damaged and not salvagable. The only thing that stopped it from splitting open or exploding are the vents. It is garbage now.
If your aux power output is above 12.5 volts +/- a couple of tenths, with no battery connected, the supply portion is OK.
If your charging voltage is above 13.5, that's suspect. With a smaller battery within spec of the overall load (IE: 7ah) are the voltages/amperages within spec? Remember, Ohm's law applies...amperage goes down, voltage goes up. So if your unit can't keep up with the amperage output to charge the load, the voltage is going to inversely increase. The resistance really isn't changing in this application.
Realistically, I'd say three things are true in this case....the battery is oversized which may have contributed to damage on the charger (they put the limit for a reason). At minimum the supply is not going to perform correctly on it's "smart" portion. Second, the battery is damaged and further usage is going to damage the components connected to it, so it's time to send it off to the scrapper. Third, the supply is already suspect, whether or not it worked properly before the battery connection can't be determined, but how it's performing at this point is suspect.
Pull the bandaid off and RMA the supply and buy a new battery within spec.