Elk SWB28 vs. Leviton 47605-28W

[hagak]

OK, I feel silly now -- I'm staring at this new 28" cabinet, and the M1G, and --- none of the holes line up. Yes, I can drill holes, and will if needed (and will have to for some other cards), but shouldn't the black plastic case align somewhere?

I've tried turning it in all directions and maybe I am simply missing it, but no where does more than 2 holes aline with holes in the black case.

The elk cans have a set of holes near the top of the can just for the M1G. I doubt the leviton can would have this.

 

[gatchel]

That means ordering glides.

But help me understand. I have done one alarm before but it was a simple moose system with one board. But I live computer and network wiring and racks, and do not understand the concern with lying flat. If anything to me it makes for a more spread out layout which means I have room for cleaner wiring. Most main boards in systems of all sorts run parallel to and a fraction of an inch off a metal case on standoffs. Is the concern that alarms are in dirty places and something might fall down behind it?

I also think this way. I prefer a neater installation and my wiring methods and experience leads be to believe that it is cleaner laying down flat. As said before , to each their own. I use commercial access control products as a guide. Most of the access control products I have worked with in the past 15 years have the boards lying flat, mostly because the cans would have to be 12" deep or more to have them in rails. S2 and Casi Rusco have (had) the boards on rails and I liked the the least as far as wiring and cleanliness go.

As far as something getting shorted out it could happen either way if you are careless.

Also, the elk main module goes at the top of the can, centered. Slide it around a bit, you'll see the holes line up.

 

[Linwood]

Bingo. Found them, I think. They are even marked with a faint "M". :blush:

But they only fit the top of the M1G, which is what threw me. They fit two holes at the top of the case, and the slotted holes about a quarter of the way from the top. All the other case holes don't line up, which is what I was looking for. These are adequate of course -- except it's not where I wanted to put it. :angry2:

Anyway, drilling holes is easy. Cutting the square out for an outlet (in the back of the box) was not, but is done. Dinner, then either I will mount it -- or watch TV and have a drink and put it off until tomorrow. But I can see where everything will go, so it is looking good.

 

[tmbrown97]

Normally these are recessed, and there's a knockout in the bottom for the outlet - that one is very simple to use!

 

[etc6849]

If you use a Leviton can, you will have to drill holes to hold the M1G or you can use industrial strength velcro tape. For everything else, Elk makes mounting plates that work great with Leviton's push pins. I used a lot of their mounting plates:
https://picasaweb.go.../HomeAutomation#

Note that for boards that were very small, all I did was cut some plexiglas and then mounted that plexiglas to the whatever size mounting plate was needed.

 

[chrisexv6]

What was the Elk part number for the plates you used?

I just ordered my Elk 28" can, but that 42" Leviton on clearance is still so darn tempting......

 

[etc6849]

Sorry, I don't remember as I installed them last year. If you search Elk's site for mount or plate they'll come up because that's how I found them

 

[Del91574]

Those pins/design are horrible, especially if you install a can on plywood. They tend to break easily.