Yes it is an inherent problem with tankless units.
I am looking at a Takagi T-K3 Pro-NG with built in anti freeze up heater. I am limited to one with a 4 inch exhaust.
ELK-WSV You Really Do Need It
- Thread starter Digger
- Start date
Yes it is an inherent problem with tankless units.
I am looking at a Takagi T-K3 Pro-NG with built in anti freeze up heater. I am limited to one with a 4 inch exhaust.
inline
Member
So sorry to hear about this! I had not even thought about this as a problem with a tankless water heater! I will keep this in mind and may just skip this new technology and stay with the old tank style hot water heater...
So sorry to hear about this! I had not even thought about this as a problem with a tankless water heater! I will keep this in mind and may just skip this new technology and stay with the old tank style hot water heater...
To be fair I had bought the cheapest one on the market at the time an Omega 2000 NG-514-PV (about $500). It did save be about $40 a month on my gas bill for 6 years so I will try and replace it with a better quality unit (possibly one with a heater built in to prevent freeze-up). It is a proven technology just dont be as cheap as me
It was my own fault for not putting the water sensors back. A costly mistake for the damage other than the water heater. But it is an excuse to remodel my workshop.
My vent is about 3 feet and horizontal. Unfortunately I can not vent out the roof. I doubt you would ever have a similar concern with a vertical and long vent like that.
You can eliminate the vent by doing electric. Steibel-Eltron has some AWESOME electric units. I just ordered a mini-tank system for a bathroom that's about 80 feet from my hot water heater, and I use one of their HydroShark systems for my in-floor heat (which is not their largest unit, but puts out around 96,000btu/hr). One that large requires THREE 60 amp circuits though.
I only have 200 A service which is the max for Residential here. Besides it would be cost prohibative with the electric rates here. Gas is much cheaper to use then electric.
There are several manufacturers that make units with freeze protection by using an electric coil (one example is 1100 watts) to heat the inside of the unit if it approaches freezing temperatures. I will probably go with one of those for the rare occasion that I need it.
I only have 200A service also. The sum of all of the breakers in a box can exceed the rating of the box. Electrical code does not assume you will be utilizing all of the circuits at their max.
In any case, here is the mini-tank system I ordered if anyone happens to need one. It's about half the price of anywhere else since this company is clearancing them:
http://www.wamhomecenter.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=7180
I am not saying it wont meet code, however, if its the summer and the electric stove is on, the hot water heater is on, and some AC's are on it will be tight.
I have a friend that has an Electric Tankless Water Heater and he tells me his lights dim when he takes a shower. There are only two people in his home so how much can be on at one time?
Most likely I will get a new unit with a built in freeze protection. As I stated I bought the cheapest one I could find at the time and you get what you pay for. About $500 or $600 dollars and I saved about $2500 to $3000 over 6 years (less the water damage now....).
I still think tankless is the best way to go. Had I done things right and put the water sensors back I would not have any damage.
That makes sense. Mine is for in-floor heat, so I wouldn't have the AC and the floor heat on at the same time. However, I have had both the heat and all of the burners and oven turned on at the same time. Even though it requires three 60 amp circuits, it only uses 40 amps on each one.
I had been considering the WSV before, but the cost is prohibitive. Has anyone ever installed a sprinkler valve on their water line coming into the house and wired it to a Elk relay? I was thinking that the M1G could look at water sensors and if they were triggered, it could shut the water valve. Are there any advantages to the WSV over this method?
That "may" work looking at the specs. It is not made of the same materials as the ELK but it is possible cheaper alternative.
Good find if it does work.
