ELKM1RB help

[AUGrad98]

I have an ELKM1RB that controls my garage door opener.  Recently, we had lightning strike pretty close.  (We've had close strikes in the past...just last year I had to replace my ELKM1 and other components.)  Anyway, all was well prior to the strike, I assume.  We rarely use the task to open or close the door.  Now it doesn't work.  The M1 does still detect whether or not the input from the door sensor is open or closed.
 
My question is:  how do I test and figure out if it's the M1RB or the M1 itself?
 
I have not tried to move the wires to a different output on the M1RB, because I just haven't had time yet (and trying to run the software to update rules in a virtual windows machine on a Linux box is a pain).  Is it possible that a single output on the M1RB can go bad?

 

[RAL]

I have an ELKM1RB that controls my garage door opener.  Recently, we had lightning strike pretty close.  (We've had close strikes in the past...just last year I had to replace my ELKM1 and other components.)  Anyway, all was well prior to the strike, I assume.  We rarely use the task to open or close the door.  Now it doesn't work.  The M1 does still detect whether or not the input from the door sensor is open or closed.
 
My question is:  how do I test and figure out if it's the M1RB or the M1 itself?
 
I have not tried to move the wires to a different output on the M1RB, because I just haven't had time yet (and trying to run the software to update rules in a virtual windows machine on a Linux box is a pain).  Is it possible that a single output on the M1RB can go bad?

 
There are several points where the problem might be.  It is certainly possible that just one relay is bad, but it could also be that the entire M1RB is bad.  Or maybe the output of the M1 that is controlling the relay on the M1RB is bad.
 
There are some simple tests you can make.
 
Write a rule a couple of rules to activate and deactivate the relay on the M1RB that you use to control the garage door each time you press a function key on the M1 keypad.  If you have some other way to trigger the garage door relay, that's ok too, rather than writing new rules.

Disconnect the cable from the M1 to the M1RB.
 
Use the DC volts setting on your multimeter to check whether the corresponding output on the M1's J16 connector is changing from 0V to 12V each time you turn the output on and off.  Make the measurement between the output pin and the NEG(-) pin of the connector.
 
If you see the output changing, then the M1 is ok.
 
Reconnect the cable from the M1 to the M1RB.
 
Next use the Ohms setting on the meter to check whether the relay contacts are opening and closing each time you press the function key (disconnect the wires to the garage door opener first).
 
If it doesn't work, change the rule to control a different relay and see if that one works.  Then you will know whether it is just a single relay or not.

 

[AUGrad98]

There are several points where the problem might be.  It is certainly possible that just one relay is bad, but it could also be that the entire M1RB is bad.  Or maybe the output of the M1 that is controlling the relay on the M1RB is bad.
 
There are some simple tests you can make.
 
Write a rule a couple of rules to activate and deactivate the relay on the M1RB that you use to control the garage door each time you press a function key on the M1 keypad.  If you have some other way to trigger the garage door relay, that's ok too, rather than writing new rules.

Disconnect the cable from the M1 to the M1RB.
 
Use the DC volts setting on your multimeter to check whether the corresponding output on the M1's J16 connector is changing from 0V to 12V each time you turn the output on and off.  Make the measurement between the output pin and the NEG(-) pin of the connector.
 
If you see the output changing, then the M1 is ok.
 
Reconnect the cable from the M1 to the M1RB.
 
Next use the Ohms setting on the meter to check whether the relay contacts are opening and closing each time you press the function key (disconnect the wires to the garage door opener first).
 
If it doesn't work, change the rule to control a different relay and see if that one works.  Then you will know whether it is just a single relay or not.

 
Thanks for the help.  I already have tasks assigned for opening/closing the door.  I wasn't sure about how to test the M1 itself.  I'll try your suggestions when I get a chance.  Hopefully I won't forget to post back here the results.  Thanks again!

 

[Del91574]

Pulse the relay and see if it changes state, and RAL hit it on the head, check the header to see if the triggers push voltage or not.

 

[apostolakisl]

It is definitely possible that a single relay can be bad.  I had a lightening strike (I'm pretty sure that is what it was) that took out a single relay, though off hand I don't recall if it was an m1rb or m1xovr board.  
 
You can always turn the relays on from a keypad to test them if using the computer interface isn't good for you.  
 
1) with all relays off, check for 0 ohms across all nc contacts
2) check for infinite ohms on all no contacts
3) turn relays all on, do above two steps but look for opposite results
 
Also, when you turn all relays on, the red leds should light up.  If the led lights up, this mostly excludes the m1 panel as the cause of the failure.  My failed relay still lights up the led.  Probably for me, it is the actual relay that is fried and I suppose I could solder in a new one, but I have several spares so why bother.