French Doors

drvnbysound

Senior Member
I'm looking for recommendations for installing discrete wired sensors for exterior french doors (new construction). Hidden/flush mounting is preferred if possible.
 
 
 
Wood doors and frames?
 
I did all of my french doors using the standard 3/8 in magnetic contacts drilled through the top of the frame.  I did one on each side, even though it is almost impossible to open  the secondary side of the door without opening the primary side first.
 
Well, I'm asking for 2 different installations really; my detached workshop which will be completed soon which will have wooden doors, and a friends home which construction hasn't quite started yet (unsure on the doors).
 
Are you referring to using a standard sensor, or a flush type?
 
I have no idea about the home, but I highly doubt there will be room above the door of my workshop (header) - which is why I was looking for other options.
 
I did a wireless sensor half in one door and the other half directly across where the doors meet when they are closed (picture were a deadbolt would be.) One sensor 2 doors.
Did this on a French door and sliding patio.
 
We have double french wood doors in the entrance of the house in Florida with glass on the top and glass side panels on either side of the two french doors.  The alarm wires were pre-wired into the top over the door frames between the bottom two doors and the over the top glass framing. The floor is tiled over cement.    I post wired the two sensors that Lou shows on the amazon link below.  They are flush mounted and you do not see them.  I think I did paint over them with left over touch up paint post construction.
 
The double french doors have an arch of glass over the two doors and glass on both sides of the double doors.
 
I was impressed with the wiring because the header framing is solid.  The alarm installers left the short pigtails into plastic caps with predrilled holes into the top wood frame for the two doors.   One door has a latch keeping it closed on the top and the bottom.  All the exterior doors were done in this fashion.  Another door is all metal framing with double glass and blinds built into the glass.  (this is one means of going to the pool lanai). 
 
I think that the alarm company wiring guys predrilled the inside of the framing coordinating the efforts with the carpenter.  The exterior of the home is a mixture of cement, cement blocks and some wood.  Or maybe the framing is hollow?
 
Looking for a picture.  Instead went to the builders web site as he is still around.  The doors for the pictures of his homes all look a bit similiar.  I did a tour of a number of homes he was building and had built before he tore down the old home in FL.
 
http://www.arthurrutenberghomes.com/
 
drvnbysound said:
Well, I'm asking for 2 different installations really; my detached workshop which will be completed soon which will have wooden doors, and a friends home which construction hasn't quite started yet (unsure on the doors).
 
Are you referring to using a standard sensor, or a flush type?
 
I have no idea about the home, but I highly doubt there will be room above the door of my workshop (header) - which is why I was looking for other options.
 
 
This type.  http://www.amazon.com/951WG-WH-Ademco-Stubby-Recessed-Contact/dp/B001UKY1A4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1  Although I prefer the ones with screw terminals.  You only need an inch or so of loose wire to make the connection and then you only have an inch of wire to slide back into the wall.  Also, it is just easier than splicing.  These guys are almost 100% invisible once painted.  It took me a good 10 seconds to find them even though I knew more or less where they were.
 
Those recessed contacts are exactly what I have in my house (with the screw terminals) as you mentioned. When I wired them in my home I put them on the sides of the door, so I could drill through the 2x4 framing.... as mentioned above, I won't be drilling through a header to pull a wire though.
 
I guess I will just have to see 1) if there is enough room for the sensor, and 2) figure out how to get the wire up there (between the door casing and the header).
 
Usually there is enough of a gap between the door frame and the header (so it can be shimmed) to run wire before installing the interior trim.  And flush mount sensors are small enough to fit in a half inch door frame.   It would be easiest to drill the hole in the jack studs before inserting the door, and maybe even running the wire and taping it to the header.
 
Alright... I guess you guys have convinced me that there should be enough room where it shouldn't be a problem. The door of my detached workshop will probably be installed early next week so I'll find out soon enough.
 
wuench said:
Usually there is enough of a gap between the door frame and the header (so it can be shimmed) to run wire before installing the interior trim.  And flush mount sensors are small enough to fit in a half inch door frame.   It would be easiest to drill the hole in the jack studs before inserting the door, and maybe even running the wire and taping it to the header.
 
I don't feel comfortable running the wire before the door is installed... I could foresee the installers crushing a wire with the shims :( 
 
Speaking of, do you suggest just running the wire around the shims? (Assuming the run the thickness of the door casing).
 
I have just had installers cover the hole before, even after I told them what was going on, so I was just trying to come up with a way to avoid that happening.  You could maybe do a pull string or leave the wire hanging too.  But if you aren't there, you never know what they'll do.
 
If you are there and can work with them to get the wire through a hole in the frame, that will let you get it all done in one day and they can finish the interior trim for you, which will save you some time.
 
Absolutely there will be enough room to run the wires and then some.  The last thing the carpenter would ever want is to try and place a door/window into a hole that is 1/32 of an inch too small.  They always leave at least 1/4 inch between the door/window frame and the rough-in, usually more like 1/2 inch on all sides.  Also keep in mind that this gap is what they use to ensure the door/window is hung perfectly plumb.  The rough in framing, while it should be plumb, may not be perfectly on the mark.  You need that play room to tweak it.  And especially with doors, if they aren't plumb, it is no good, they will "ghost" meaning that they swing open/closed on their own.
 
And finally, even if they don't leave room, you just drill your hole straight through the door frame and continue right on through the rough-in frame to the next stud space.  Even when there is room, this is common practice since at some point you have to get your wire out of the rough-in frame anyway.
 
Of course never drill through the sill.  It is best to keep your holes high where water will never be an issue.
 
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