HAI Switches. Non-dimming vs. Dimming

[tshephard]

Is there any real difference between the non-dimming and the dimming switches?

I looked them up before I made my purchase and they of course, recommended the non-dimming version for my bathroom fans. These are not the relay version, just non dimming.

I found under upstart, that you can change these to dimming mode and make a standard dimmer out of it. This leads me to believe that the difference in the non-dimming and the dimming switch is just marketing. I'm sure it's handy when you have a big job for the switches to come per-programmed for the mode you need.

Only this time the dimming switches cams with the UPB Version 3, where the non-dimmers were older. I could have gotten three more version 3 switches and used them in other spots and pulled some version 2 dimmers and reprogrammed them as non-dimmers myself.

BTW- the new version 3 HAI UPBs are nice, but they have one flaw the older switches do not have. When I have a dimmmable led dimmed, the light pulses with UPB traffic.

 

[ASIHome]

Since you are using these on bathroom fans, you should be using the 40A00-1 relay switch to avoid any issues. The 35A00-1 and 35A00-3 are the same device with the dimming turned off.

 

[tshephard]

Since you are using these on bathroom fans, you should be using the 40A00-1 relay switch to avoid any issues. The 35A00-1 and 35A00-3 are the same device with the dimming turned off.

Bummer. I went with the non-dimming for the fan based on HAI's document. Near the bottom of the first page says its for fans and fluorescent lights.

Should I return them?

http://homeauto.com/Downloads/Products/HLC/Model35I00-1UPBWallSwitch.pdf

 

[Desert_AIP]

I run all my bath and laundry room fans on SA UPB dimmers with dimming disabled.
You'll probably be fine.

The relays also have that annoying "click".

 

[tshephard]

I kinda reserved the relay switches for any circuit with a switched outlet, or a higher hp motor. But ASI's a dealer, with more insider info!

I have a relay switch on my garage light circuit because there is an outlet attached. All thats plugged in now is a 4 tube florescent fixture. But I thought it would be the thing to do. And yes, it has the annoying click.

 

[ASIHome]

I am not saying that it will not work, I have just run into failures over time as that is not really what a triac is meant for.

 

[tshephard]

Thanks Barry. I tend to agree and was a little surprised at the HAI white paper that suggested using the non-dimmers. I'll hang on to them and when they fail, I'll put a relay switch in.

Whenever I get to automating my living room ceiling fan, I'll put a relay switch in. Thanks for offering your experience.

 

[Mr Spock]

I am not saying that it will not work, I have just run into failures over time as that is not really what a triac is meant for.

I'm not surprised. Any inductive load (motor, solenoid, relay coil, etc.) will produce a large negative transient voltage on the line when turned off; V = -Ldi/dt. Its very dependent on the device and if the manufacturer has any suppression circuity. Its usually very short lived (microseconds) and may be from a few volts to hundreds of volts. DC solenoids often have a reverse diode to absorb this "reverse kickback". A regular mechanical switch does not care about this, but electronic switches (triacs, etc.) can exceed their breakdown voltage.