Help with new wiring project

[TechnoFool]

Please help me with some wiring questions for a residential construction project. My wiring will include 14/2 cable for in-ceiling speakers, a 5.1 or 7.1 theater, security system, cat6 networking, HDMI and IR. The in-ceilings will be powered by Audiosource Amp 100s (50W per channel), and the home theater to be determined. Maybe throw in a little coax and an obligatory but extinct phone connection, and I hope to be all set. So here are my questions for all you experts:

1. As long as I stay away from AC or cross perpendicular, which of my wires can I run together and which ones should be separated?

2. What tips do you have about wiring near plumbing and HVAC? Any definite places to avoid or ways to make this safe?

3. How do I protect the in-ceiling speakers from blown in or rolled-in bat insulation?

4. How would you test the runs during pre-wire? I will have limited time until insulation/drywall, but don't want to be surprised a few months later that I messed it up.

5. What recommendations do you have for an IR controller system? Any thoughts about extending the reach for about 100 feet? Can I just splice this together (what gauge) and would the signal be strong enough?

6. Any other advice for a newbie to make this as painless as possible?

Thanks in advance!

Andreas

 

[drvnbysound]

1. I don't have a problem running LV wires together and wouldn't worry a whole lot about it based on what you described. Yes, stay away from HV wiring as much as you can.
 
2. I don't have anything major to note here other than anything that would be obvious.
 
3. I've built boxes and have seen some use pre-fab insulated boxes (e.g. Dynamat). I've also seen some people use larger pieces of cardboard. Some of my whole-home speakers are covered with blown-in; I couldn't tell you which ones from listening to them.
 
4. I don't test during pre-wire; only during trim out.
 
5. I've used Xantech systems without any issues. I've used Cat5 cabling to do this.
 
6. Get some help, preferably by someone who has done it before. I've pre-wired 15-ish, new construction homes now. If you don't know anyone local to ask about things, feel free to ask here and I'm sure you'll get some answers. 

 

[Del91574]

Single phone connection is actually a code requirement.  Back to the old days of putting a single outlet in the kitchen.
 
For the remaining:
 
2. Run your cabling after the HVAC and plumbing is substantially roughed in. You can move cables, they can't move ducts and pipes.
3. You install rough in plates and install after the insulation is installed. They make baffles if you're really concerned.
4. Depends on the cable, but easiest is to ohm out the cables, short and open circuits and meter to ground, if you're truly concerned.
5. Xantech also comes to mind.

 

[drvnbysound]

This is what I had in mind regarding the Dynamat speaker baffles:
 
http://www.dynamat.com/architectural-home/architectural-home-dynabox/
 
The problem with those is that they ARE PRICEY!

 

[tmbrown97]

1. stay away from AC
2. Aside from what DEL said - it won't cause any problems for LV
3. A long time ago, I emailed a manufacturer about this and they gave a weird response but it came down to "who cares?" about insulation being in direct contact.  This seemed foreign to me - I had a background in mobile audio where enclosures have a huge impact.
4. yeah - most will be fine... one test for simple pairs could be to twist one end together and test for continuity - then untwist the pairs and make sure it goes away.  For CatX you could throw a mod plug on and test if you really want then terminate properly later.
5. I'd also think Xantech - CatX cabling; 
6. Get tips from someone who's done it before, or sparky worst case.  Simple things make all the difference.

 

[kevkmartin]

For speakers and blown in insulation, I've just "scooped out" part of a piece of backed batt insulation and placed that over the speaker, then added the blown in to desired depth over top. Keeps the blown in out of the speaker with a small impact to R value, and almost no $$.

 

[Neurorad]

Dynamat (back box material) is predominately used to reduce sound transmission, when used behind a house speaker. I did some research on them, but didn't end up using them. I was considering Dynabox. Seemed they were only good for reducing high frequency transmission. I don't know if Dynamat/Dynabox is good for improving sound quality.

If you want to improve sound quality, I suggest using framing to build a back box, using the existing joist cavity.

I did this for my WHA kitchen speakers. I couldn't tell if it made a difference because I put in new speakers also. But cheap, and it couldn't hurt.

I also constructed back boxes (OSB, MDF) for a couple other pairs that I had access to from above. Again, cheap and easy, couldn't hurt. WHA speakers and amps aren't typically high quality, and room acoustics are sub par, so I didn't have high expectations.

If you just want to keep blown insulation out of the speakers I have read of people using plastic grocery bags.

 

[joyj]

1. stay away from AC
2. Aside from what DEL said - it won't cause any problems for LV
3. A long time ago, I emailed a manufacturer about this and they gave a weird response but it came down to "who cares?" about insulation being in direct contact.  This seemed foreign to me - I had a background in mobile audio where enclosures have a huge impact.
4. yeah - most will be fine... one test for simple pairs could be to twist one end together and test for continuity - then untwist the pairs and make sure it goes away.  For CatX you could throw a mod plug on and test if you really want then terminate properly later.
5. I'd also think Xantech - CatX cabling; 
6. Get tips from someone who's done it before, or sparky worst case.  Simple things make all the difference.

nice advice.  ^_^