How many Cat6 for keypads?

[mrshanes]

I'm going to be going with the Elk and some sort of whole house audio. I think I really only need 1 Cat6 to each of the keypad locations for each of these. But, should I run a second to each for backup/future proofing? My grand plan was to do 2 at each, but now I'm trying to firm up my plans and wondering if I really need 2 to each security and audio keypad.
Also, should I terminate these to a patch panel or just wire them right into the Elk/audio controller. I like the idea of a patch panel for neatness/flexibililty, but is it worth it?

Thanks

 

[pipeman]

I'd run a second.
Cat6 is probably overkill, but I like the more substantial wire (23ga) too.
I think you really need audio at the keypads and the single spare pair is iffy at that thin gauge.

 

[personalt]

run a second if there is any chance you will put intercoms in... intercom drops near whole house audio is good because many of the intercoms and interput the whole house audio speakers if you run them inline.

I'd run a second.
Cat6 is probably overkill, but I like the more substantial wire (23ga) too.
I think you really need audio at the keypads and the single spare pair is iffy at that thin gauge.

 

[signal15]

run a second if there is any chance you will put intercoms in... intercom drops near whole house audio is good because many of the intercoms and interput the whole house audio speakers if you run them inline.

I'd run a second.
Cat6 is probably overkill, but I like the more substantial wire (23ga) too.
I think you really need audio at the keypads and the single spare pair is iffy at that thin gauge.

I ran three Cat6 to each keypad location. One for a spare, and another in case I want to hook up a prox card or biometric sensor to the weigand input on the keypads and have it located somewhere else, like outside the front door or garage.

 

[mrshanes]

I guess I'll go ahead and run a second to each one. Won't hurt anything. How about termination? Right to the equipment or to a patch panel? What do you guys think?

 

[sic0048]

For keypads I'd wire them directly to the hardware. Only patch drops that have the potential to change in the future. But a keypad is going to be a keypad forever. Punching them down to a patch panel just increases the odds of having problems. Either because the patch panel fails (probability is low), or because the patch cord gets disconnected or something else gets plugged in by accident (odds are much greater and can actually lead to ruined hardware).

 

[pete_c]

I used Cat5 for my security consoles and have them wired directly to the security panel. I am using the other Cat5 cables wired to the vicinity for sound keypad contols and even network.

As Brian mentioned above you can damage equipment by accidently plugging them into some other device, etc.

 

[mrshanes]

I used Cat5 for my security consoles and have them wired directly to the security panel. I am using the other Cat5 cables wired to the vicinity for sound keypad contols and even network.

As Brian mentioned above you can damage equipment by accidently plugging them into some other device, etc.

I was going to put them on a separate patch panel with labels all over it, but even then I suppose accidents could happen. Or the kids could get into it and start plugging and unplugging wires. I guess I'll hardwire them. But, then what should I do with the "extra" Cat6 cable I run to the keypads? I don't want a bunch of unterminated wires hanging around.

 

[signal15]

I punched all runs down to a 110 block and then just used cross connects to where they ultimately needed to go. In the case of keypads, they are punched down to the 110 block, and the cross-connect has an RJ-45 on the other end that plugs into the DBH.

Using a 110 block is a bit more work, but your wiring ends up being really pretty and you don't have to worry about accidentally shortening something too much. If you do, you just pull out the cross-connect wire and put a new one in.

 

[Ira]

While trying to determine the best layout for my can, I started wondering what benefit a punch down block would give me (I had already bought one). I couldn't come up with anything that justified the valuable real estate it takes up. I have a LAN switch in the can, and will have several cables plugging into it originating from outside the can, as well as two (M1G XEP and Brultech wireless device) that are entirely inside the can. I realized that it's very unlikely that any of the cables will go anywhere else besides the switch. If I leave enough slack in the cables in the attic, I can move the switch around in the box if necessary. I would be using additional patch cables for the "outside the can" runs going from the patch panel/block to the switch. I just couldn't see what it bought me in looks, flexibility, or more efficient space utilitization.

Ira

 

[Photon]

One of my personal rules is never connect house wiring directly to equipment on the main panel. Another is to avoid crimping plugs onto house wiring. I punched cables from my wall-mounted keypads to my favorite mini patch panel: a quad surface-mount box loaded with keystone jacks. I then use short patch cables to a M1DBH. This keeps my permanent, non-standard keypad wiring separate from jacks on my main patch panel. On the other hand, I have a keypad sitting on my nightstand which I connect through a wall plate to the main patch panel, then on to the DBH via patch cable. That makes it easy to move to another location for testing or whatever.

 

[signal15]

I have a separate can for my 110 block, terminal strips and power, and the main can has the panel in it.

 

[AceCannon]

I wired most stuff in the house to a 96 port Monoprice patch panel (keystones on the front, 110-block style punchdown on the back). This includes Elk security keypads, Elk input exandders, Nuvo keypads, telephone, network, video cat5e (for baluns), etc. My rationale is that I had never done any of this before and stuff might need to get moved around considerably.

I mounted my Elk components directly to the plywood walls of the central closet and had no idea at the time if they would stay in that position (they so far have).

 

[personalt]

Could you post some pictures of your 110 block? I did male RJ45s on my keypads but I have that syndrom where wires end up being a little too short or too long.

I punched all runs down to a 110 block and then just used cross connects to where they ultimately needed to go. In the case of keypads, they are punched down to the 110 block, and the cross-connect has an RJ-45 on the other end that plugs into the DBH.

Using a 110 block is a bit more work, but your wiring ends up being really pretty and you don't have to worry about accidentally shortening something too much. If you do, you just pull out the cross-connect wire and put a new one in.