How many mudrings do I need...

[beelzerob]

I have to put the mudrings in soon, and I'm having hard time calculating how many I'll need around "entertainment" areas, mainly TV or TV/HT receiver areas.

I know how many component video and analog audio are going to a place, and I know how many speaker wire connections are going to a place...is there a standard amount of mud rings that are used for those? I know that face plates can come in anywhere from 4 to 8 holes in them, but if a completely modular/custom plate like that is expensive, is there a "standard" face plate for a certain number of connections?

Basically...should I assume 1 mudring per 8 or less speaker connections, and 1 faceplate per component video/analog audio connections? Just making sure...

 

[nightwalker]

I have to put the mudrings in soon, and I'm having hard time calculating how many I'll need around "entertainment" areas, mainly TV or TV/HT receiver areas.

I know how many component video and analog audio are going to a place, and I know how many speaker wire connections are going to a place...is there a standard amount of mud rings that are used for those? I know that face plates can come in anywhere from 4 to 8 holes in them, but if a completely modular/custom plate like that is expensive, is there a "standard" face plate for a certain number of connections?

Basically...should I assume 1 mudring per 8 or less speaker connections, and 1 faceplate per component video/analog audio connections? Just making sure...

If you use a plastic as opposed to metal mudring, for those areas you are either not sure of or expect could get added to, you can easily just knock it out and add a 2 or more gang old work mudring in the same spot.

 

[beelzerob]

If you use a plastic as opposed to metal mudring, for those areas you are either not sure of or expect could get added to, you can easily just knock it out and add a 2 or more gang old work mudring in the same spot.

definitely planning on all plastic.

Another related question is...are there any particular situations where it might be better to use an actual box instead of just a ring?

 

[nightwalker]

If you use a plastic as opposed to metal mudring, for those areas you are either not sure of or expect could get added to, you can easily just knock it out and add a 2 or more gang old work mudring in the same spot.

definitely planning on all plastic.

Another related question is...are there any particular situations where it might be better to use an actual box instead of just a ring?

Not for low voltage, no. The only place i use a box is for smoke detectors and that's only because the box is what most inspectors are looking to see. for most other wire you might run, the boxes are too small and there is a good chance you'll kink it, not good for most audio/video or networking lines.

 

[Sacedog]

If you use a plastic as opposed to metal mudring, for those areas you are either not sure of or expect could get added to, you can easily just knock it out and add a 2 or more gang old work mudring in the same spot.

definitely planning on all plastic.

Another related question is...are there any particular situations where it might be better to use an actual box instead of just a ring?

I would use a box for any in-wall "device" that you plan to terminate to. For example, an intercom or volume control. For simple terminated wires, use a mud ring so that you can maintain a good bend radius.

 

[beelzerob]

So, I bought a bunch of 1 and 2 gang mudrings to put all around the place. In particular, it was meant for the TV locations, which all contain component video, analog audio, 2 RG6 and 5 cat5e....so that's 12 keystones total.

I'm noticing a few things, though....first of all, single gang faceplates are more than half the price of a double gang faceplate. Second, the single gang plates seem easier to find than the double. Finally, a single gang plate will give me more flexibility for what faceplate to use than a double gang plate, just due to the available selection, if nothing else.

Soo...is there a compelling reason to use 2 gang mudrings at all, as opposed to 2 single gang mudrings, stacked on top of each other, or maybe on either side of the stud cavity?

 

[beelzerob]

Also, I've been looking around at the wall plates and keystones available on ebay and automatedoutlet....are those generally all compatible? Are keystones keystones?

 

[Sacedog]

Soo...is there a compelling reason to use 2 gang mudrings at all, as opposed to 2 single gang mudrings, stacked on top of each other, or maybe on either side of the stud cavity?

The only one I can think of is less wall clutter. Otherwise, you are correct, in that is gives you more flexibility for wall plates.

 

[Sacedog]

Also, I've been looking around at the wall plates and keystones available on ebay and automatedoutlet....are those generally all compatible? Are keystones keystones?

Most of them will work with one another, as most are "quickport" (Leviton product) compatible. Some are different, however, so make sure to check before your 30 days runs out to return them.

 

[hucker]

One thing I did in several places is put in a double gang box with a single gang faceplate cover. Just ask the electrical guys. I've already broken one out and was thankful. It adds zero to the cost and at worst gives you extra space in the jbox. I'm not sure if there is a 2hole mud ring for a triple gang box but that might be nice too.

 

[felixrosbergen]

HI gents,

Coud anybody post a picture of mudring in place? I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would work and how one can have 2 gang now and then easilly expand to 4 gang. Would the othr 2 gangs be completely hidden by the drywall?

 

[beelzerob]

HI gents,

Coud anybody post a picture of mudring in place? I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would work and how one can have 2 gang now and then easilly expand to 4 gang. Would the othr 2 gangs be completely hidden by the drywall?

Well, I'm nailing on some mudrings today I can take a pic of, but I'm not sure that's what you're wanting to see.

I think what most people are saying is that if you put on a plastic mudring now that's 2 gang, and later discover you wanted room for a 4gang, you can easily cut/snip the end out of the 2-gang ring and then cut the drywall enough to either add another 2-gang "old work" ring, or pull out the 2-gang altogether and put in a 4-gang.

At least, I THINK that's what they're talking about....

 

[nightwalker]

HI gents,

Coud anybody post a picture of mudring in place? I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would work and how one can have 2 gang now and then easilly expand to 4 gang. Would the othr 2 gangs be completely hidden by the drywall?

Well, I'm nailing on some mudrings today I can take a pic of, but I'm not sure that's what you're wanting to see.

I think what most people are saying is that if you put on a plastic mudring now that's 2 gang, and later discover you wanted room for a 4gang, you can easily cut/snip the end out of the 2-gang ring and then cut the drywall enough to either add another 2-gang "old work" ring, or pull out the 2-gang altogether and put in a 4-gang.

At least, I THINK that's what they're talking about....

By jove, you've got it.

 

[Ranger Digital]

I am with sace, I use a full box on most items: intercom, audio control (russound, on-q,blah blah), anything that has electronics. its not worth not having that all boxed and NO reason not to have it boxed. I ONLY use mudrings where I have ONLY wires coming out of the wall, like component, RJ45, etc.

Even though manf's say use a mudring or a low voltage box (which is the same thing), it makes no sense to do so. Another reason is rings and LV boxes are as much as five times as much money. crazy I know.

 

[PaulD]

I am looking at same issue of closed or open back box in a new house I am building. My builder uses a specific guy to prewire all his low voltage stuff and I took a look at some work he did on a current house under construction. Here link is a picture of how he looped the wire thru a box to prewired a single gang box for 2 ea Cat5e and one RG6Q. He told me he did it this way so the sheetrock guys will not tear up his wire with their Roto zip tools later when they cut out the opening for the box. He said he can then fish out the wire he needs later.

I told him I would prefer open back boxes and he said he can do it any way I want but he still needs to secure the wire ends to keep the sheet rock guys from doing strange things to his wire.

Any opinions on his approach to prewire?