How to measure Current to Choose Line Noise Filter

[hotcoffee76]

Hi,

I am taking the first steps into home automation and have some UPB and X10 components to work (play) with. The first couple of switches are working fine. A lot of the reading I have done has mentioned th eneed for line noise filters, and so I have purchased a couple different ones to try out once I encounter some noise to filter. In order to choose between the various current ratings (and cost), I would like to measure the current drawn at various things, especially a few power bars that have multiple components hooked up to them.

I saw mention of clamp meters as being a possible solution, but was not clear on what type I would need. The clamp meter I have an only measure current by connecting to one conductor so I am not sure if there is another version of the tool I should be looking at.

Other then calculating expected current based on item specs, how to other measure actual current used on a given outlet?

Thanks,

Cliff

 

[ano]

Hi,

I am taking the first steps into home automation and have some UPB and X10 components to work (play) with. The first couple of switches are working fine. A lot of the reading I have done has mentioned th eneed for line noise filters, and so I have purchased a couple different ones to try out once I encounter some noise to filter. In order to choose between the various current ratings (and cost), I would like to measure the current drawn at various things, especially a few power bars that have multiple components hooked up to them.

I saw mention of clamp meters as being a possible solution, but was not clear on what type I would need. The clamp meter I have an only measure current by connecting to one conductor so I am not sure if there is another version of the tool I should be looking at.

Other then calculating expected current based on item specs, how to other measure actual current used on a given outlet?

Thanks,

Cliff

The Kill-o-Watt is a pretty good cheap solution.

 

[BLH]

With X10 the filter has to be made to not absorb the signals. Many generic line filter will absorb X10 and make things worse.
There is some good data here on X10 signals and troublemakers.
http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.act-solutions.com/PCC/uncle.htm

I have used a Kill-A-Watt for some of my tests on plug in devices and have a clamp on for the other things.

 

[JonW]

You'll find that the X-10 units will be very susceptible to line noise, where the UPB modules will generally function just fine.

I've had UPB installed in my house for almost 5 years now (I was an early tester) and most of my devices are GEN I. I did not need any filters for UPB until I added a 58" plasma TV about two years ago. A single filter on that TV solved the problem though. I also have multiple UPB devices running outside that are fed off a sub-panel for my pool and are running on the same lines as my 220V pool pumps with no problems. I've even had UPB devices plugged into battery backup systems and not had issues with them. X-10 would never work in situations like those.

My personal opinion is that you should save yourself the headache and shouldn't bother with the X-10 devices if you're already going down the UPB road.

I also recommend the Kill-a-watt for testing device power consumption.

 

[ano]

Yeah, dump the X-10.

I've only found two things that cause UPB noise, Panasonic Microwave Ovens with "Inverter Technology" and plasma TVs. In both cases a very simple low-pass filter blocks their noise. Its so infrequent on UPB, that its quite hard to even find a company that makes a filter for UPB, but they do exist.

 

[Steve]

I've only found two things that cause UPB noise, Panasonic Microwave Ovens with "Inverter Technology" and plasma TVs.

I guess you haven't seen my posts over the years You can add fancy Dacor cooktops, Pentair Intelliflow variable speed pool pumps and cheap Heath/Zenith motion security lights to the list. At least that's been my experience. There have also been several people with external noise sources that were impossible to track down. As long as the noise is fairly low then Gen II stuff should be fine.