How To Pre-Wire Garage Door For Elk M1 Control

ccmichaelson

Active Member
Using the Elk M1 (or ISY), I want to be able to know whether or not each garage door is open/closed with the ability to open or close the door via Elk/ISY.
 
I'm about to pre-wire my home so do I run 22/4 wire between my alarm panel and the garage door motor location or the wall keypad location?  Do I need to run another wire between the alarm panel and a door contact (so that I know if the door is open/closed)?
 
 
Thanks a million!
 
 
I have a cable running from the panel to the opener. Connects to the same two wire connections as the wall switch. Setup the Elk for a momentary relay cycle and works great. Also have two zones for door contacts. One when closed and a second when fully opened. Have some events in Homeseer to detect if door is faulted and not closed or opened.
 
srodgers - good tip with the two contacts - for full open vs. just not closed.
 
Most people use a contact like THIS or THIS (I use the latter) - so you need a pair of wires at each door for the contact sensor.
 
For control of the door, really it depends on you and the opener.  In the old days it was much easier - you just short the button wires at the motor and that triggers the door.  However, most modern day openers come with the smart control panels.  They're still 2 wires to the motor, and honestly you can still usually just short the 2 wires at the motor to cycle the door, but these things that have clocks and temperature sensors and all that - it makes them reset when you do a hard short on the wires.  This has posed a dilemma  in automating garage doors the last few years.  People are stuck with:
1) not caring about the smart panels (they're not required - you can replace with regular buttons and they'll function just fine) - then you can still wire to the motor;
2) Wire to your wall buttons and solder to the button contact points.  This simulates pressing the button on the controller without screwing with all the other electronics on the thing.
3) Hack a remote - here's a writeup showing how...  this is especially helpful if you don't have wiring near your buttons - but with these new controllers it has the drawback of being disabled by the smart controller turning off remote access (a feature of many of them).
 
In my opinion, I'd like the option to disable the built-in wireless controller completely and use my solution only - requiring hardwiring at the motor or switch.  At least, that's best case scenario.  I haven't done it and haven't been motivated enough - but if I have my security hat on, I want something even more secure than the run of the mill RF remotes that every garage door in America comes with augmented with my own security.  What I did get to is throwing the smart buttons in the trash and using regular buttons - then I can do regular momentary contact closures at the motor.  Additionally, the wiring goons who prewired this house used Cat5 to the sensor eyes so there are extra pairs there - I used those for my contact sensors - so I only had to run a single Cat5 across my garage ceiling by the motors to pick up both doors and both sensors over to my little sub-panel.  
 
+1 for what W2P said... I use the same sensor (wired mine with 22/2), and pulled 18/2 to the GDO for control.
 
I set a F-key on all of my keypads that lights up if my garage door is open.
 
Something separate but worth mentioning... is to pull 22/2 to your doorbell. I really like being able to get emails (if away) or to control other automation based on someone pressing my doorbell (e.g. changing the input of a TV to a CCTV view, to show me who is at the door). Check out the Elk-930 for that...
 
Over the years in additon to the above I have added a mini-AP-NIC port to one work bench wall. 
 
It really only appears to be a NIC port except it has some LED indicator lights on it for the AP parts.
 
It's the type that is made for hotel rooms and fits nicely in a standard electrical box (plastic or metal).
 
I have used it to autosync some stuff on the automobile PCs (well too with tank battery configurations).
 
adding to drvnbysound's doorbell comment - if this is a whole house prewire, I like wiring the doorbell straight to the M1 and skipping a physical doorbell in the house and the associated transformer - but that goes with my other preference which is to have KP2 keypads at the front and garage door and the master all with SP12 speakers behind them, and augmenting with additional SP12's in other locations around the house to get sufficient sound - then having the doorbell really be driven through the M1.  I did that by incorporating an Elk124 inline with my Elk's speakers so I could record whatever I wanted - which most of the year would be the traditional westminister doorbell sound.  Around the holidays I may get more festive.  The additional benefit of this is that when I just don't want to be bothered, it's quite easy to disable the doorbell with the same "quiet house" function button already on the keypad.  My wife works nights so when her and/or the babies are sleeping during the day, we can make the whole house quiet from all non-essential warnings/noises.
 
Here got a bit more convoluted with the "doorbell" stuff. 
 
Initially though it was a direct doorbell button to my OPII panel.
 
This was a bit too sensitive to false positives probably due to a cheap doorbell button?
 
Like the garage door automation stuff; the "doorbell" was a project on it's own.  It has been mentioned a few times that the more wires you have in place the more automation stuff you can add.
 
The "video doorbell" endeavor and current hardware has been shrinking just in the last few years. 
 
Most likely you will see a whole video camera / audio and doorbell button thing shrink down to a tiny footprint sometime in the future. - contradiction here - The mini cloud connected door bell button with video is already here.
 
A POE enabled catxx cable while not utilized today may serve a purpose tomorrow.
 
Over the years went to re-adding the doorbell AC transformer and adding Elk doorbell board and Elk debounce circuit.
 
Having a debounce circuit creates a timed trigger for me autonomous from whatever I would configure on the OPII panel.
 
I also went to an LED doorbell a couple of years back.  The button is sealed from the environment and much better than the old stock one.  That said it cost a bit more than a standard doorbell.  Folks on the forum here have DIY'd similiar doorbell buttons.  Front door is a bit of a PITA as it has two side panel and brick next to the side panels.  The door bell button is in the framing of one side panel making the space really tight today. (well too there there is more glass such that the outer glass covers the inside glass and wood frame side panel).
 
The doorbell trigger today illicits a few events.
 
That said the sound is a chime from the HAI panel and wave file / text to speech from the connected software.
 
In a recap then you would have the standard pair of wires for the door itself plus whatever you want for the doorbell.  (22/2 and / or 22/4 and or catxx).  Wire is cheap; wiring can be difficult/expensive after completion.
 
pete_c said:
...The "video doorbell" endeavor and current hardware has been shrinking just in the last few years. 
 
Most likely you will see a whole video camera / audio and doorbell button thing shrink down to a tiny footprint sometime in the future. - contradiction here - The mini cloud connected door bell button with video is already here. ...
 
Like SkyBell?
 
http://www.skybell.com/
 
Uses power from a standard doorbell transformer (and wants a regular ringer to drive).  Transmits audio/video over wifi.  Doesn't quite fit my front door, however...
 
Craig
 
Like SkyBell?
 
A Homeseer user purchased it and found out the same as you did Craig.
 
It is the smallest that I have seen to date.  AND it is one pair of wires to it. (and stock wires are nice to use).
 
User was trying to fit it in small wood frame space between outside front entry door with glass framed panels.
 
Personally here the space I have is around 2" to 2.5".  
 
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