how to secure CATV outdoor panel

mumian

New Member
I have Elk M1 gold for security and home automation. What is the solution if the outdoor CATV panel is tampered or during service is down? How to secure the cable from ground to CATV panel (can I use a metal pipe?), and what tamper sensor to use for CATV panel.
 
I really don't understand the question? Are you referring to the telco connection or are you using a TCP/IP and an XEP for communication to a CS?
 
Hi mumian,

I'm not sure where you're located but it seems as if closer to the east, people have their cable, phone and other services enter inside the basement; more west where people don't have basements, it's more common to have a service entrance on the outside of the house (my observation - could be completely wrong).

Regardless, if your service entrance is on the exterior of your home (where the cable and telco enter the house and connect) then you're smart in wanting to secure these. If someone wants to break into your home, smarter criminals know that by opening that box and cutting your phone and internet lines, it's quite likely that they've killed your alarm monitoring. Smarter criminals will cut these lines, kick open a door, then wait somewhere to see if cops show up - if not, they go in and clean you out.

I'm not sure if you're wired or wireless - and I've only recently started looking at specific solutions for this problem; but another member of the forums (panamanian) introduced me to some products that are wireless contact and shock sensors. Not only will they detect if the panel is opened, they'll also detect hard shock to the doors if someone is trying to pry or beat them open.

The best possible defense is a combination - a security camera pointed at the service entrance and DVR that'll email you pictures based on conditions; some security screws and/or padlock (whatever your access covers allow) for the service entrances and the breaker box, and shock and security sensors on the covers will properly protect these areas. This is something most people overlook but is very important.
 
small side story:

I have always had alarms on my cars; but, I hate false alarms. 98% of the time, the flashing light is enough to deter someone - so I never had problems... but at one point I had my shock sensor completely disabled because I hated false alarms and knew that most criminals would go find an easier target rather than risk it.

Well - one time in my life, someone called my bluff. They broke the window and hid; when the alarm didn't go off, they climbed in and stole everything (they did $7K worth of damage to the vehicle in order to steal $3K worth of equipment) - but they never opened a door so the alarm never went off.

It's rare that you get someone smart enough - most criminals play odds and just randomly canvas an area and look for opportune spots... those guys are easy to deter with visible motion sensors and stickers warning of security everywhere... but once in a while you get a slightly smarter criminal - and those need to be protected against too.
 
They make enclosures and split-duct that will cover over an existing drop and d-marc for telephone, so these will definately work with a CATV drop with plenty to spare. They are already tampered and have a keyed lock installed. I really wouldn't install a shock or inertia based device, then again, I'm doing this as a pro and a false for something like that is far more likely and really isn't a high gain in security IMHO.

We've got overhead and underground here, and plenty of locations with no basements as well.

The easier way honestly, as I've done it on installs where a redundant communication line isn't being installed, is to relocate the service to inside the house, as if it's overhead, there's a point where it should be easy to pop it into an attic or somewhere else. If it's underground, then it's usually only a couple of fittings in worst case to move.

The thing is, that while this is a deterrent, don't be lulled into the false security, because, like the car alarm story, all they truly need to do is knock out a pedestal on the street or even on your property and it's the same as cutting the lines. The best solution is to have a backup communicator that works if the lines are cut.
 
DEL - I can't picture it - do you have any links to examples of these enclosures?

I've considered closing up the exterior service entrance panels and moving them inside the garage - on the other side of the wall... just not sure if code even allows that out here.

I completely agree that something like cellular should be added as a backup option - unfortunately most homeowners are cheap and won't want to pay the difference.
 
I couldn't find one in my distributor's line card, but I found Comlok as one.

Just found it, couldn't find it anywhere else at the moment.

http://www.securitystoreusa.com/C-C-VG-VLK101-VoiceLok-Phone-Line-Protector-p/45454.htm
 
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