Ideas for controlling bedroom lights from bed (using zwave, upb, etc)

tadr

Active Member
I'd like to start a pretty simple discussion on how people are controlling their automated lighting devices from bed.  I.e., what interface are you using for the control.
 
Scenario:  Master bedroom adjacent to hall and master bathroom
Lights:
1.) Master Bed Overhead Lights
2.) Master Bed Overhead Fan
3.) Master Bed Nightstand lamps
4.) Hall Lights
5.) Bathroom Lights
Goal: A simple and faster interface to accomplish the following from the bedside:
1.) Turn off all lights
2.) Adjust fan speed
3.) Turn on-off nightstand lamps
4.) Turn on-off bathroom lights
 
Right now I do this using Homewave on my iPhone, but it takes too many steps to fumble for my phone, unlock it, open the app, and then switch to the right room.
 
Does anyone else have any other control suggestions?  I want something super simple.  So far, I am considering:
1.) A dedicated touchscreen controller at the bedside that only runs lighting control software.
2.) Voice control with a microphone mounted near the bed
3.) A single gang zwave scene controller installed in a junction box mounted in the nightstand
 
What I would REALLY like is a simple, wireless controller with 6-8 buttons that I can physically label and configure for Vera, but I haven't seen anything like that.
 
 
 
 
I use a Pebble watch which communicates thru the Talk2Watch app on my Blackberry Z10 to control my Vera...smooth and easy
 
I do this with X10 remotes. You can possibly get an X10 plugin for Vera, a TM751 for each house code and give this a try. We have these remotes all around the house, they are cheap, convenient, easy to replace/copy if lost, very durable and can be waterproof. Also you can label the buttons.
 

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neillt said:
I use UPB, so it was simple to get a cradle with an HAI 6 button UPB controller in it to sit on the nightstand.
 
You can do the same with Z-Wave devices I suppose, just get the Simply Automated 1 gang pedestal and put something Z-Wave in there.  Check out http://www.simply-automated.com/products/items/ZTP2-W_tabletop_housing.php
 
I know next to nothing about Z-Wave or the Vera so my help here is limited. 
 
Doesn't the UPB cradle / controller require that it be plugged into an outlet (e.g. tethered)?
 
drvnbysound said:
Doesn't the UPB cradle / controller require that it be plugged into an outlet (e.g. tethered)?
 
Yes, but I didn't really think that was going to be an issue if it's on the nightstand?
 
Here I am using a DIYmodded dedicated in house network only tabletop capacitance touchscreen which can be utilized wirelessly but I am using it wired. 
 
I am still playing with this device. 
 
It runs wintel, linux or android.  I have modded the hardware a bit with this little tabletop device.
 
It works fine with Leviton HAI touchscreen software and Homeseer HSTouch client software in Linux, Wintel or Android. 
 
I want to make it do more and utilize the DECT and Zigbee chips on the motherboard of this device.
 
The device is remote controlled by the "mothership" today plus I can just shut off the screen manually pressing a button on the touchscreen interface.
 
Currently have X10, Insteon, Z-Wave and UPB devices installed in house.
 
Simplest and most inexpensive means at a wireless controller is the above mentioned X-10 palm pad which I use still today for this or for that.
 
neillt said:
Yes, but I didn't really think that was going to be an issue if it's on the nightstand?
 
While I have power provided near my night-stand, the thought of having a wired remote to control my lighting was a non-starter for me.
 
If I was to pick up a wired device off my nightstand I'd be knocking all sort of crap over. With a wireless remote, I'm not limited to having it on my nightstand; when I'm out of town for work, my wife can have the remote on her side of the bed. While not often, I've also carried it into the living room with me and controlled lights there too. I like the flexibility that a wireless remote provides. Having a wired remote would be like having a corded telephone... :(
 
That's why I use the iPod Touch.

It sits in a cradle and I use it as a bedside clock, but I can pick it up and control everything from bed.
 
I do also have wireless tablets large and small that I remote control my home with; works fine for me. 
 
Recently have played with a tiny 4.5" Android device with a very quick processor.  Its a cute little device with a front facing camera that works fine.  Its smaller than the X-10 wireless multibutton remotes and does much more.  I did do multiple pages of large touch buttons on it so that I could see it better.
 
I shut the wireless tablets off when I am not using them; even the nightstand tablet that I throw in the nightstand drawer when I go to sleep. 
 
Batteries last for a very long time between charges this way; but that is me and what I do.
 
Conveniently, there were outlets and switches on each side when we moved into the house. The switches each control a recessed ceiling light, one over each side of the bed. Those are separate from the main room light. Since everything was set up that way, we just put our bed in that spot and took advantage of it.

I put in an Insteon KeypadLinc on each side. Later I moved one to a tabletop enclosure (and put a dual-band switchlinc in the wall).

Each KeypadLinc controls the light for that side, plus buttons for the main room light, the hall light, the ceiling fan, and a nightlight. The main room light and fan can also be controlled from switches (SwitchLincs) by the door. The switch by the door has a quick (0.5 sec) ramp rate, the buttons on the keypadlincs have a 30 second ramp rate for controlling the room light. Push the button, get into bed (or double-click the button and it's instant). No speed control on the fan, I could put in a fanlinc but we really only use one speed anyway in this room. Still, the KeypadLincs could in principle be put in 8-button mode and then there could be buttons for other fan speeds and maybe the bathroom lights (I don't see any need for that, though).

I haven't seen a problem with a wired remote (the tabletop enclosure). It doesn't get lost, the batteries don't die. Really don't think about it. I could imagine adding a cable management clip at the back of the night table if it was a problem.

I don't think I would want a touchscreen device. I want it pretty dark when I sleep. When I stay at hotels I often have to cover the front of the digital clock so it won't be so bright. I have the button brightness on the keypadlincs set dark enough that it is barely visible when the lights are on.
 
Yup; here the mothership shuts off the tabletop screens at night.  That and the devices are powered via POE (there is a managed POE switch in the mix).
 
That and I am switching over to a model with speakers in the front.  I do utilize TTS and the device has a microphone built into it.
 
There are roots in the design of the device relating to the Apple's/ OpenPeak's John Sculley. 
 
Its sort of a larger Intel embedded almost mobile motherboard built by Foxconn for Openpeak.
 
My automation of choice is insteon with the ISY-994 controller. with regards to night use, I use different devices at different location. At one, a simple keypad in a desktop enclosure. I am, however, migrating to android tablets and use a combination of mobilinc and tasker to create home-screen buttons to control key lighting scenes. In one case I use a 7" samsung tab. In another case, I use a retired cell phone in a cradle.

Using the larger tablets are, to me, good in that they can also integrate the viewing of security camera images, controlling the TV, showing weather forecasts, and making/recieving phone calls. And, yes, they can display time and include alarms. The night stand was getting too cluttered with separate devices for these functions. I have also found that, for me, android tablets are better suited for this purpose than iPads because of the flexibility of widgets.

Regarding darkness, i schedule screen brightness with tasker and even turn it off during the darkest hours.
 
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