Insteon Switchlinc Microswitch Replacement

matapan

New Member
Has anyone on this forum ever tried replacing the microswitches on older Insteon Switchlincs to correct the problem with the switches failing to toggle?

I purchased a couple of these switches second hand, and this problem started to show up soon afterwards. Smarthome extended the warranty on these switches to the original purchaser for 7 years I think, but I'm not the original purchaser.
 
This might get you headed in the right direction:

http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/9636-repair-defective-insteon-switches/
 
Thank you gatchel! This is exactly what I was looking for.

Is there also a solution for unresponsive Keypadlinc buttons? Would it be the same as this one?
 
Thank you gatchel! This is exactly what I was looking for.

Is there also a solution for unresponsive Keypadlinc buttons? Would it be the same as this one?
I havent heard much about that. You may have to take one apart to see the tact switches match up.
 
I have seen this after google searches in the past. Photographic step by step instructions on replacing the micro-switches. It looks like someone with a reasonable soldering skill level could do it.

I never bothered since SH replaced all of mine with brand new ones, but if you can't locate the original owner. .. oh well.

If you do know the original owner and their ship to address, you can call SH and stil R and R them giving your address (probably have to pretend to be the other guy though). I had moved after buying mine, and they required no proof of who I was, just asked my name and where I had them shipped originally. Then I asked them to ship the replacements to my new home, no further questions asked.
 
For those who have tried this repair, what is the best way to disconnect the triac from the board? The Insteon Switchlinc only has one board, and it is quite snug where the triac is soldered to the single board. Any comments would be appreciated!
 
I tried this repair on an Insteon Switchlinc. The repair was successful.

Some suggestions for those who will be trying it out:
1. Instead of unsoldering the triac leads snip them, with a fair amount of lead left on the component. This way, you can more easily remove the board, replace the microswitches, put the board back, and solder back the cut ends of the leads back together. This is easier and quicker.
2. Unsoldering the surface mount microswitches involved alternately heating each lead on one side and using a dental pick to lift up the part when it was hot enough.
3. Be sure to line up the replacement switch correctly. Positioning correctly makes a huge difference.

Thank you Mr. Spock for the write up on the X10 Switchlincs!
 
I have found that it is helpful to have compressed air when unsoldering something that has multiple fixed points of contact, like a 4 footed microswitch. Melt the solder then blow it out. Just be sure that wherever the solder spray ends up isn't shorting anything. Typically the solder blows clean away leaving everything nearly brand new looking.
 
I would recommend sucking the solder off instead. There are solder suckers for this. As it's been said , you can clip each lead at the switch with some precision nippers and just heat and gently flick the stubs off the PCB one at a time. This way you don't get too much heat in to the PCB and lift the traces.

If you plan on going in business doing repairs then it's worh investing in a Pace MBT-250 or similar. :pray:
 
I would recommend sucking the solder off instead. There are solder suckers for this. As it's been said , you can clip each lead at the switch with some precision nippers and just heat and gently flick the stubs off the PCB one at a time. This way you don't get too much heat in to the PCB and lift the traces.

If you plan on going in business doing repairs then it's worh investing in a Pace MBT-250 or similar. :pray:

I have one of those suckers. I almost never use it. Blowing it off works so much better most of the time. I just keep some blue painters tape in my kit and mask off a little back stop. If i am in a spot where I can't do that, then I use the sucker but that is rare. The blow off solder doesn't stick when it hits. It just brushes off if some of it gets somewhere you don't want it.
 
I found that the solder left on the pad and the tip which one tins is enough for you to reheat and solder back the new switch.
 
Back
Top