Leviton 21" Structred Media Cabinet - how to connect

The reason I asked is because the plastic little clips for the wires should not be brittle.  If you are off a bit on the punching down or punch sideways you maybe break the tabs.  I have though never done this or seen this done before (breaking tabs). 
 
Guessing though if you do break them you will not be able to put the little covers over the tabs that protect the wires - some little punch panels do not have these though. 
 
Make sure too you cut the right side of the cable and have the tool aligned correctly.  I also look and if the wire is still there some I clip it with little wire clippers.  My punch down tool is old now so it really doesn't work that well these days.
 
You can adjust the punch down tool such that it uses less force when punching down.  Personally I have never done that though. 
 
Yup the wires will break if they are bent in the same place a few times or if compressed thin sometimes.
 
The very small footprint with passive cooling TP-Link SG1024 24 port Managed switch does do link aggregation. 
 
It smaller than the width of the Leviton can with plenty of room on each side of it measuring at:
 
11.6 x 7.1 x 1.7 in. (284 x 180 x 44 mm), 13-inch Rack mount Steel Case, 1U Height
 
Leviton 21" can dimensions are:
 
22 x 17 x 3 in.
 
I purchase one a little bit ago and its been working nicely and is cool the touch.  I am replacing a similiarly sized un managed same MFG switch in my 42" Leviton can with this same managed switch.  The GUI is quick and I am getting used to it versus using a CLI. 
 
It was $158.00 USD with free shipping from Amazon dot com.
 
http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?categoryid=2878&model=TL-SG1024DE#spec
 
http://www.tp-link.com/resources/document/TL-SG1024DE_V1_Datasheet.pdf
 

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intermediatic said:
 The most annoying thing is that I haven't found a left angle power cord of the correct length for the switch.
 
If the socket isn't soldered to the circuit board, but just screwed to the back panel with pigtails to the board, then you might be able to open the case and flip the socket over.  I recall doing that some time ago for a piece of gear.  It was a simple fix to let me get the thing into a tight cabinet.  
 
intermediatic said:
I didn't mean that the clips are brittle or breaking, I meant the wires are. There also are no covers.
 
Yes, when punching down wiring you need to get things laid out and ready to 'lace up'.  And then use zip ties to keep the bundle very secure.  Otherwise the thin copper conductors tend to break. 
 
How's those patch panels work out for you?  I'm debating using something like those vs the Leviton 'Twist and Mount' setups.  I'm of the opinion using the 89D style will give me a bit better port density (more ports using less square inches inside the can).  But I'm not entirely certain just how well the subsequently plugged-in cabling will all bend around to get down to the switch ports.  I haven't been planning on using extension rings but there's potentially enough clearance here to make that happen.
 
drvnbysound said:
 
I saw this when looking, but had concern/issue with it taking up that much space in my SMC. Instead (as mentioned) I went with (2) GS108's that are literally stacked on top of each other.
 
http://www.netgear.com/service-provider/products/switches/unmanaged-desktop-switches/GS108.aspx#
 
The dimension of (1) of them is listed as 6.2"W x 4.1"D x 1.1"H. So with both of mine stacked I'm taking up 6.2"W x 4.1"D x 2.2" H opposed to the 11" width of the one you posted above.
Still running this stacked setup?  Any problems from the heat?
 
My GS116 is full, looking to expand in the enclosure.
 
I see Netgear has a new Prosafe line, with a smaller footprint, and integrated mount.
 
maxresdefault.jpg

 
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-16-Port-Gigabit-Desktop/dp/B00R92CI20/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1476791659&sr=1-6&keywords=netgear%2Bprosafe%2Bswitch&th=1
 
Trouble is netgear seems to have QA problems.  I've had two die within the last year.  These being in open areas without lack of air movement.  Bad caps inside both discovered during the post-mortem.
 
Here still using the TP-Link mini 24 port Easy Smart managed switches.  Have three now and they are doing fine.  One is in a Leviton 42" can.
 
TPLink.jpg
 
 
 
If I needed to replace the existing GS116, I guess I would consider that new Prosafe line, with the integrated mount, but I probably son't need more than a few more hardwired Ethernet drops, in the next few years.
 
i'll probably just add a 5-port or 8-port switch.
 
wkearney99 said:
Trouble is netgear seems to have QA problems.  I've had two die within the last year.  These being in open areas without lack of air movement.  Bad caps inside both discovered during the post-mortem.
I thought their stuff had a lifetime warranty? 
 
I've bought a ton of their better stuff - prosafe line mainly (metal cases); not the cheap plastic stuff - and never had a failure (probably bought 35 GS110TP's in the last year).  Linksys on the other hand...  I refuse to touch it.
 
For those who are into Ubiquiti, they have some new stuff that's part of their unifi line.  I did a complete install with it for someone recently - 24-port POE, USG router, and 3 AP's - and with their little cloud stick thing you basically get all the best aspects of Meraki without the cost.  I was pretty happy with it.
 
Neurorad - I stumbled across that little switch a while back too - totally forgot about it.  Seems like it could be great for SMCs.
 
Neurorad said:
Still running this stacked setup?  Any problems from the heat?
 
My GS116 is full, looking to expand in the enclosure.
 
I'm not, but never had an issue with heat at all, they ran very cool.
 
I only changed because I went with a Cisco POE switch for my cameras; the switch had 16-ports so I removed the (2) 8-ports I had.
 
Having said that, Ive seen them used in non-vented outdoor enclosures for many years without issues as well - in the southeast.
 
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