Low voltage (12v) and Ethernet -- need to separate?

[doogie04]

So I'm in the midst of wiring during a renovation.  I don't know why this didn't occur to me before, but do I need to keep  low voltage cable (think power for shades, keypads, et al. )  and Ethernet (data/gigabit) separate by 12-18 inches?  I know this is true for armored cable (like BX) and Ethernet, but I couldn't find any info on the low voltage DC stuff.
 
Cables are like this ...
http://libertycable.com/products/Liberty-Wire-and-Cable/LUTRON-YEL/
http://libertycable.com/products/Liberty-Wire-and-Cable/24-4P-L6/
http://libertycable.com/products/Liberty-Wire-and-Cable/24-4P-P-L6SH/
 
 I expect the shielded Ethernet will be fine, but not sure about the standard stuff.  Any insight?
 
Best,
-eric

 

[pete_c]

I have my network cables alongside of the 16/4 and 16/2 jacketed cables and other types of cable today utilized for audio and LV.  (RG6 and audio cable in the chase).
 
Many of the CatXX cables in the chase today are POE and RS-232.  They are inches from each other.  
 
Today the longest run / chase is from the attic to the basement in one chase.  Its only LV cabling; there is no HV conduit in the vicinity.  The build and find of the chase was post construction such that I needed to look at the original drawings.
 
Its been a few years and I do not have any issues with this setup. 
 
One run today is a bit modified with utilization of a PPS signal on one of the RS-232 lines in the cat5e.  Signal appears to be fine (as is really sort of sensitive).  Another added and old utilized run is for the NOAA satellite stuff using a Quadrifiliar Helix antenna which seems to be working fine for me.

 

[wkearney99]

Any time you're dealing with something like a motor load you're often best served to keep it separate from data communications cabling.  Or make sure the wires cross perpendicular.  You want to avoid them running alongside each other for more than a couple of inches.  But for powering keypads I wouldn't be concerned.  
 
Shielding isn't really going to do much for you other than draining your wallet.  Yeah, in high-RF-noise environments like a manufacturing shop floor it'll help, but in a home it's sort of pointless overkill.
 
Worst case you have some transient noise than only occurs when the shades are operating.  Which isn't going to be all that often or at high enough levels to overwhelm Ethernet's own error handling abilities.

 

[pete_c]

Yup here have the LV controller wires in same chase on the 2nd floor for the chandelier lift (well its like a garage door opener in the attic). 
 
I don't really work the motor much though as it takes some 10 minutes to lower the chandelier (only really utilized for cleaning and bulb replacement).
 
I've not really paid attention to the network though when lowering/raising the chandelier. 
 
It's just a LV solenoid keyed switch on a wall plate adjacent to the wiring chase to the HV motor anyways.
 
I do not though have any other 12VDC motor load wires in the chase.

 

[doogie04]

Good points guys.  I hadn't really thought about it, but the power I'm concerned about is only for shade motors & keypads.  The keypad power is super low, and the runs pretty short -- in the 20/30 foot range.   The shades, at worst will be intermittent.
 
Most of my runs follow 14" metal I-Beams, so I can hang the shade power on the bottom and Ethernet on top.
 
@wkearney99 - liberty was having a special/overstock/mis-bundling  on the shielded and it was about the same price as unshielded.  Thought I would give it a whirl.
 
Best,
-eric

 

[pete_c]

Yup; here the keyed solenoid for the "lift" switch is adjacent to the 2nd floor hallway Russound KPL (which uses cat5e) - its about 3 inches from it.   Here using Omnitouch and Russound KPLs to control the Russounds.
 
I'll crank up the audio to see if the motor / switch creates noise on the speakers in the hallway.  Never paid attention.

 

[doogie04]

As an aside,  I'm using these "j-hooks":
 
http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable-Management/J-Hooks/TG-CH-200
http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable-Management/J-Hooks/CTS-CH-200BC
 
 
So far they are really nice to work with (and about the same price as standard metal ones).

 

[pete_c]

Here using plastic J-Hooks in the attic.  They are high up as I have a large attic.  I did build a catwalk and added much lighting to the attic.
 
Thinking about it I also utilized plastic J-Hooks in the basement for the main floor cabling to the com room.  No metal J-Hooks at all in the house.
 
The wire runs are about 4 feet from the HV conduit I added to the attic (actually on a different wall in the attic)
 
From the top the wires drop down to the bedrooms sort of in a grouped fashion such that each bedroom / home office is one bundle of LV cabling.
 
I have switched the LCD TV's to mostly using GB XBMC boxes but still also feed DTV satellite and OTA and inhouse video to the RG-6 lines such that its a mixture of wires going to each room on the second floor.

 

[wkearney99]

As an aside,  I'm using these "j-hooks":

 
I prefer D-rings, as I've found the j-hooks problematic for dealing with pulling a bunch of stuff and having it come up/out of the hook.
 
http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable-Management/Metal-D-Rings/DRING-13C
 
But a lot of the time I just pulled things 'loose' and then went back and secured it with the D-rings.  

 

[doogie04]

I've had the same experience.  The hangers I linked to have a "band" that clips over top to keep cables from coming out. 
 
Over produced marketing video, but you can see the strap (around 48 seconds) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAgVS9OQBKQ

 

[wkearney99]

Over produced marketing video, but you can see the strap (around 48 seconds)

 
Indeed a bit overproduced for a simple hook.  But hey, sure makes for a compelling sales pitch.  If/when I need 'em again I'll certainly give them a try.

 

[BaduFamily]

jeez those hooks - I feel like a dork for using PVC plumbing hangers screwed in on one side...