I'm planning out a M1 Gold system and I'm trying to determine how to wire up the door strikes. I want to use Seco-Larm SD-994C which is 12V 250ma. I'm thinking I can wire it up to the M1RB but I'm not sure which wire goes where. Can anyone give me some advice? Does one wire from the strike go to COM and the other to NO, and nothing on NC?
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M1 with door strike
- Thread starter phareous
- Start date
You should connect one wire from the door strike to the M1 or an aux power supply's NEG terminal. Connect the other wire from the strike to the NO terminal of the relay board. Polarity of the strike's wires is not important.
Connect the COM terminal of the relay board to the M1 or aux power supply's +12V output (+VAUX on the M1).
When the relay is activated by a rule, the strike will operate.
Since the strike draws 250 mA, you may very well need an aux power supply, depending on what other loads you are powering from the M1.
Connect the COM terminal of the relay board to the M1 or aux power supply's +12V output (+VAUX on the M1).
When the relay is activated by a rule, the strike will operate.
Since the strike draws 250 mA, you may very well need an aux power supply, depending on what other loads you are powering from the M1.
I don't see why you couldn't write a rule to assign an F-key on the kpas to open the door strike. The M1kpas has 6 programmable functions by pressing the "F" and then a number 1-6.
http://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-m1kpas-m1-led-keypad-arming-station
Mike.
http://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-m1kpas-m1-led-keypad-arming-station
Mike.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
There are certainly a few different ways to do it...
I had a magnetic lock installed on an entry door of my detached garage. I paired a M1KPB keypad inside the garage (mainly wanted this keypad because it also provided a temp sensor for the garage) with the ELK-106055 prox reader, using a ELK-W035A harness. Since this was in my detached garage, I was using the Elk P212S remote power supply which also has an on-board relay. I used the relay to control the magnetic lock. I also had an interior request-to-exit motion detector; so the mag lock would automatically deactivate when I got within about 6-8" of the door.
I don't believe there is a way to tie the prox into the M1KPAS directly like there is with other KPs; I haven't seen any documentation or products that show support for it anyway. So, you would need to tie your prox into another keypad or into the M1KAM. The KAM would also provide you with the means to engage/disengage the strike, so I think it's pretty ideal for this situation.
I had a magnetic lock installed on an entry door of my detached garage. I paired a M1KPB keypad inside the garage (mainly wanted this keypad because it also provided a temp sensor for the garage) with the ELK-106055 prox reader, using a ELK-W035A harness. Since this was in my detached garage, I was using the Elk P212S remote power supply which also has an on-board relay. I used the relay to control the magnetic lock. I also had an interior request-to-exit motion detector; so the mag lock would automatically deactivate when I got within about 6-8" of the door.
I don't believe there is a way to tie the prox into the M1KPAS directly like there is with other KPs; I haven't seen any documentation or products that show support for it anyway. So, you would need to tie your prox into another keypad or into the M1KAM. The KAM would also provide you with the means to engage/disengage the strike, so I think it's pretty ideal for this situation.
There's a bunch of ways to get the weigand into the M1, but you're not going to get the data into a KPAS.
Conversely, there are limitations to distance (50') when using a M1KAM, between it and the reader, which I've never truly understood, coming from the commercial access control world where we have data in the hundreds of feet.
Easiest would be to put a real keypad in and run the reader into that from the outside. It is also wise to wire the LED control to the open collector of the keypad for an indication of the locked mode of the door. You would still need an additional pair for the locking hardware power and a relay for control purposes.
Conversely, there are limitations to distance (50') when using a M1KAM, between it and the reader, which I've never truly understood, coming from the commercial access control world where we have data in the hundreds of feet.
Easiest would be to put a real keypad in and run the reader into that from the outside. It is also wise to wire the LED control to the open collector of the keypad for an indication of the locked mode of the door. You would still need an additional pair for the locking hardware power and a relay for control purposes.
Depends on your budget and how you really want to do it.
A KPAS and KAM is going to be a lot more expensive than a fully featured keypad and provide you less information, if that's a concern. Also depends on the enviroment and end users. I've done similar, but this was a commercial site and I wanted to KISS for the end users to arm and it was easier for me to get a couple of cables pulled to the door and control it locally than back at the panel.
A KPAS and KAM is going to be a lot more expensive than a fully featured keypad and provide you less information, if that's a concern. Also depends on the enviroment and end users. I've done similar, but this was a commercial site and I wanted to KISS for the end users to arm and it was easier for me to get a couple of cables pulled to the door and control it locally than back at the panel.
RalphXhoff
New Member
Good tips and advice provided
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