Missing UFR

[Jim Doolittle]

I guess I need to replace a recently installed UFR. It controls a fan in my bathroom (the remodelling project I recently completed and obtained quite a bit of help from cocoontech members). It is on same circuit as UFD and US2-40 and signal strength for those other two devices is very good. I put in setup mode and it works for a while and then quits.

Since I hate crawling into my attic, I am thinking of just replacing it with a US11-30 without a faceplate. I will return the UFR and, when I get a new one, will use it for another application. This will prevent another trip to the attic and also will make it easier to do any future setup, if ever needed again, since I will not have to mess with removing a UFR from the box and use a toothpick to put it in Setup mode. Of course, I would have to temporarily put on a faceplate but that would be easier and I think safer.

Any suggestions?

 

[drozwood90]

I guess I need to replace a recently installed UFR. It controls a fan in my bathroom (the remodelling project I recently completed and obtained quite a bit of help from cocoontech members). It is on same circuit as UFD and US2-40 and signal strength for those other two devices is very good. I put in setup mode and it works for a while and then quits.

Since I hate crawling into my attic, I am thinking of just replacing it with a US11-30 without a faceplate. I will return the UFR and, when I get a new one, will use it for another application. This will prevent another trip to the attic and also will make it easier to do any future setup, if ever needed again, since I will not have to mess with removing a UFR from the box and use a toothpick to put it in Setup mode. Of course, I would have to temporarily put on a faceplate but that would be easier and I think safer.

Any suggestions?

Sounds like you have your solution. Just make sure that the device snaps on and off, if you are running a motor from it.

Also, you don't need to put a faceplate on to put it in setup mode. Just use the tooth pick to push the same micro switch as the face plate would press.

It may also be easier to put it into an electrical box, so you can find it faster next time around.

--Dan

 

[Jim Doolittle]

I guess I am not so sure why I even bothered with a UFR. If it was less expensive since it does not support a faceplate and some of the other switch features that would have made sense but it isn't. I guess I could convince myself that I wanted the higher rating but the fan I am using is well within US11-30 capability. I will miss the icon in UPStart that show a fan with the UFR since that is what I was actually doing but in the scheme of things that is not so important.

 

[ano]

I'd agree. I think Simply Automated needs to rethink some of their products. Maybe they just need to make a blank cover for the US11-30 in this applications. And a US11-30 without the load control circuit at a cheaper price would be great as well. And drop that stupid remote switch. Whomever designed that should be fired.

 

[noshali]

Jim

I have 2 US1130 switches in the resroom. As the box was there with 2 switces. I programmed it so that the light switch turns on and off both the light and the fan. The fan button alone controls the fan.

So now if someone walks in and turn ont he light the fan comes on with it. When they leave they switch the light off and both go off. (most situations)

If for some reason you decide to leave the fan only then swithc off the light which will switch off the the fan. Use the fan button to turn the fan on.

This really helps as the kids/guest only use one switch.

regards,

 

[Jim Doolittle]

noshali,

I contemplated having light and fan come on together but I really want the fan used for showers and another reason that I will not elaborate on. Fan does not need to be on when girls are doing makeup. These exhaust fans suck heat in addition to moisture and that became even more apparent when I went up in the attic to check on the UFR since exhaust fan would not shut off.

I plan on using one wire humidity sensor to ensure that fan is On. I had been using (when the UFR was functional) a 5 minute after lights out HomeSeer event. I will continue to use that event but will also add a condition for humidity level in case someone took a really long hot shower .

 

[Jim Doolittle]

Replaced UFR with US11-30. Working good. In fact, it is working better. It seems that response time when activating the switch via link transmitted by a US2-40 is nearly instantaneous while UFR seemed to take about 1/2 second...of course that could have been another indication of a bad UFR.

 

[acdcelectric]

I recently returned a couple of UFR's to SAI for a similar problem. The tech report was that there was a flaw in the power supply design on older models that only showed up in certain uses. It has been remedied in the newer units being made.

 

[Steve]

I've used several UFR's and UFD's with no problem. A UFR controlled most of my holiday lighting for 2 seasons now and has been rock solid. Maybe I have just been lucky.

 

[ano]

They had a problem with inductive loads, like fans. Christmas lights are purely resistive and never a problem.

 

[Steve]

I also use those outlets the rest of the year for power tools, garden blowers, etc. Granted, those are not 'automated', but still never had an issue with them working.