Mounting & powering a touch screen

[beelzerob]

Interesting little gizmo there. But it'd have to be deep enough to hold the entire wall wart, or it'd still be an issue underneath.

 

[Frunple]

Just run either 16/2 or 14/2 (depending on distance and current requirements) from a power source to the TS. Put the same male end on the TS side of the wire that the device needs, usually an "m" type. Then put a female end on the power side. This way you can use the original wallwart and plug it into the female end, and plug the new male end directly into the device.
All parts available at radio shack obviously.
Both ends can be mounted in a "blank" gang cover with a hole drilled in it.

 

[pete_c]

I utilize a "in-wall" recessed dual gang box for my 19" Kitchen LCD. It makes for a flush 120VAC mounting. It was probably most difficult to install as I used metal conduit to the box for the electric. Not sure what code is around my area for mixing plastic and metal gang boxes. I've seen a "hybrid" of sorts with both plastic and metal recess boxes.

Here are front and side pictures of the mounted LCD. Will take LCD off wall later today and take some pictures of recessed gang box. the 120VAC box is angled and recessed but not sure of the depth and whether you could install a wall wart. Might just fit though. I used these also for my family room behind the media center update. For a 15" touch screen I wouldn't like it at 3.5" off of the wall therefore my preference of a 12" or smaller touch screen. BTW the sound is decent from this LCD but not great. I like the LCD's with the speakers on either side of the LCD (but a larger footprint).

 

[standon]

I use an articulating arm to keep mine flush. Of course, my wall is deeper than the standard wall but I think it may work still on a standard wall since the arm compresses to be a fairly low depth.




There's a pretty big cavity behind this.

 

[opie]

Not sure how thick your wall wart is but what about something like this from Arlington industries? Their website is difficult to navigate, but they have several other options like this.

 

[Monk]

They make single gang cover plates that simply have a large hooded hole in them, for running wires directly into and out of the wall, so you don't have to terminate it to the plate.

Here is a picture of what Beelzerob is talking about - can't remember where I bought it tho.

View attachment 3212

Update - here is a link to the project where I had used that particular pass-thru.
Wallmount Project

 

[Fiasco]

I know this has been covered before, but dang if I can't find it (I know one of you will jam it down my throat by replying with the link--if you do, tell me the search terms you used to find it)

Anyway, if someone wants to mount, say an iPad, or other touch screen to their wall permanently, what is the "by the book" way to get power to it from inside the wall? I'm pretty sure I can't just drop a wall wart in there or anything stoopid like that.

By code you can not embed a cord in the wall. You also can not plugin the wall wart and then route the cable back into the wall and out behind the iPad.

You can get a recessed receptacle box that will allow you to plug your wall wart in to the receptacle while still allowing you to mount your iPad flush to the wall over the top of it though.

 

[tmbrown97]

... You also can not plugin the wall wart and then route the cable back into the wall and out behind the iPad.

Why not? That's what you're doing when you distribute Low Voltage around your house. Out here, that's how household alarms are typically installed, with the wallwart near an outlet, and the actual wire through the walls. Personally, that's *exactly* what I would do.

 

[WayneW]

... You also can not plugin the wall wart and then route the cable back into the wall and out behind the iPad.

Why not? That's what you're doing when you distribute Low Voltage around your house. Out here, that's how household alarms are typically installed, with the wallwart near an outlet, and the actual wire through the walls. Personally, that's *exactly* what I would do.

Wiring (even low voltage) INSIDE the wall needs to be rated for in-wall use, usually with a "CL2" rating on the wire jacket itself. I am assuming the iPad is a pre-made thingy and therefore I doubt that the wire attached to an iPad wall wart is CL2 (or similar rated). The alarm system wall warts I have seen have screw terminals specifically to allow the use of proper wire. A possible workaround would be to use proper CL2 wiring inside the wall, but then you may have ugly termination/conversion issues at each end.

 

[Fiasco]

... You also can not plugin the wall wart and then route the cable back into the wall and out behind the iPad.

Why not? That's what you're doing when you distribute Low Voltage around your house. Out here, that's how household alarms are typically installed, with the wallwart near an outlet, and the actual wire through the walls. Personally, that's *exactly* what I would do.

you can do whatever you want after final inspection. NEC says no flexible cords through walls, ceilings, over ceiling tiles or through windows or doors as a permanent installation.

An electrical inspector could fail you for it.

An alarm installation done like that is lazy and an electrical permit probably wasn't pulled for the work.