Omni Pro II Console Power
- Thread starter jtek
- Start date
pete_c
Guru
I have a secondary HAI Omnitouch / CCTV can here and use the primary can for just one keypad console. Personally I would not split the power (from the OP2 can) for touch screen use. Might work fine with an Aux power supply used for your OmniPro. That said my automation touchscreens today are using POE - one cable same as IP HAI consoles.
I am actually not using touchscreens. I am using basic Android Tablets to interface with my smartthings hub so I just need to keep a charge on them like they would get from a usb charger at 5 Volts and approximately 2Amps.
I only have 4 consoles and according to the manual the system says it supports up to 16 so there should be plenty of power to power 4 android tablets right?
I would just need to step the 12V source down to 5 Volts.
Thanks for the reply.
I only have 4 consoles and according to the manual the system says it supports up to 16 so there should be plenty of power to power 4 android tablets right?
I would just need to step the 12V source down to 5 Volts.
Thanks for the reply.
jtek said:
The support for 16 consoles is a statement about addressability, not power. The manual says:
"16 LCD Consoles (Models Models 33A00-1, 33A00-4, 11A00-1, 11A00-2, 11A00-9, and 15A00) MAXIMUM per system, subject to power availability."
My recollection is that the OP2 can provide about 1 Amp of power at 12V for consoles, outputs and aux power. As pete_c suggested, you'd be well advised to power the tablets from something other the the OP2.
pete_c
Guru
Yeah I see this working with an aux power supply.
Here use Omnitouch 5.7's, Omnitouch 5.7e's (with their own POE) and embedded Wintel tabletop touchscreens with POE/Gb links. IE: the Omnitouch 5.7e's are using an aux can with aux power and battery. The Omnitouch 5.7e's and tabletops use POE from a 24 port POE managed switch. All consoles are wired. IE: wireless tablets are used but typically are in off mode.
My tabletop touchscreens also include bluetooth and wireless. I have tested the wireless to work fine but will probably never depend on one as a wireless console. I prefer serial, then network (wired) for my OmniPro consoles and use the phone apps to play with but not manage my OmniPro console. That is me. In the home typically tablets and cellular phones are in off mode.
I did install an openwrt micro router (with AP off) inside of the HAI can which uses a 12VDC to 5VDC transformer from the panel power source. All ethernet in and out goes through this microrouter. Looking to make this a mini email board as I have it configured today with RTC / battery for time syncing the panel plus it does email just fine.
Here use Omnitouch 5.7's, Omnitouch 5.7e's (with their own POE) and embedded Wintel tabletop touchscreens with POE/Gb links. IE: the Omnitouch 5.7e's are using an aux can with aux power and battery. The Omnitouch 5.7e's and tabletops use POE from a 24 port POE managed switch. All consoles are wired. IE: wireless tablets are used but typically are in off mode.
My tabletop touchscreens also include bluetooth and wireless. I have tested the wireless to work fine but will probably never depend on one as a wireless console. I prefer serial, then network (wired) for my OmniPro consoles and use the phone apps to play with but not manage my OmniPro console. That is me. In the home typically tablets and cellular phones are in off mode.
I did install an openwrt micro router (with AP off) inside of the HAI can which uses a 12VDC to 5VDC transformer from the panel power source. All ethernet in and out goes through this microrouter. Looking to make this a mini email board as I have it configured today with RTC / battery for time syncing the panel plus it does email just fine.
ok, thanks for the recommendations. I thought about using a POE to USB converter like this but they are a little pricey plus would need to get some POE injectors or a POE switch. Just to power 4 tablets would be around $300.
http://shop.rfwel.com/tycon-power-systems-poe-msplt-usb-48v-passive-poe-in-usb-15w-splitter.html?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=CNHI95_dqNECFQhXDQodiEkFQQ
I guess I could also just do the 5V power dist panel like you suggest. Got a decent one you could suggest?
I could also run a new outlet to those locations and do the usb power outlets.
http://shop.rfwel.com/tycon-power-systems-poe-msplt-usb-48v-passive-poe-in-usb-15w-splitter.html?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=CNHI95_dqNECFQhXDQodiEkFQQ
I guess I could also just do the 5V power dist panel like you suggest. Got a decent one you could suggest?
I could also run a new outlet to those locations and do the usb power outlets.
pete_c
Guru
Yes originally here and still today have Tycon power injectors (5VDC), Tycon mini POE switches, Tycon midstream injectors and a Tycon 24 port managed POE injector. Good stuff.
That said I went to using 16 tabletop tablets POE powered with Gb and using the TP-Link POE injector which is very reasonably priced.
TP-Link TL-POE10R $14.49 on Amazon Prime.
Barrel coax to mini USB cable on Ebay for about $1 with free shipping.
For the micro router (2" X 2" X 1" or so) 5VDC powered inside of the HAI can went to a 12VDC cigarette light socket (small) with a thin mini USB cable on it. I took it all apart and only utilized what I needed which was smaller that the device case (cut it to half size). I mostly liked the thin cable as my OmniPro 2 panel is pretty full these days.
Or using one of the following 12VDC to 5VDC transformers. (used in automobile).
That said I went to using 16 tabletop tablets POE powered with Gb and using the TP-Link POE injector which is very reasonably priced.
TP-Link TL-POE10R $14.49 on Amazon Prime.
- IEEE 802.3af compliant
- Delivers power up to 100 meters (328.1 feet)
- Optional 12V DC 9V DC or 5V DC power supply
- Plug-and-Play, requires no configuration
Barrel coax to mini USB cable on Ebay for about $1 with free shipping.
For the micro router (2" X 2" X 1" or so) 5VDC powered inside of the HAI can went to a 12VDC cigarette light socket (small) with a thin mini USB cable on it. I took it all apart and only utilized what I needed which was smaller that the device case (cut it to half size). I mostly liked the thin cable as my OmniPro 2 panel is pretty full these days.
Or using one of the following 12VDC to 5VDC transformers. (used in automobile).
Those are great suggestions. So maybe do this:
https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w-Right-Angle/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V6KTJ2P9Q0YEA2XTNJK7
with this:
https://www.amazon.com/WT-GPOE-8-48v60w-Gigabit-Passive-Ethernet-Injector/dp/B01F334BH6/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MSF0QNYA79Y2253QZN8Z
Since I don't need Cat 5 at my end points I could probably just do some 4 wire shield cable and pin it to the right cat 5e ends right? I have rolls of that stuff from when I installed the alarm system.
Thanks again!
https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w-Right-Angle/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V6KTJ2P9Q0YEA2XTNJK7
with this:
https://www.amazon.com/WT-GPOE-8-48v60w-Gigabit-Passive-Ethernet-Injector/dp/B01F334BH6/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MSF0QNYA79Y2253QZN8Z
Since I don't need Cat 5 at my end points I could probably just do some 4 wire shield cable and pin it to the right cat 5e ends right? I have rolls of that stuff from when I installed the alarm system.
Thanks again!
pete_c
Guru
Never seen the two products offered by WiFi Texas.
I like the POE 5VDC power splitter injector.
Since I don't need Cat 5 at my end points I could probably just do some 4 wire shield cable and pin it to the right cat 5e ends right? I have rolls of that stuff from when I installed the alarm system.
Typically 22/4 or 22/2 is used for alarm system switches and PIRs. I would not recommend 22/2 wire for your endeavor. 22/4 (2 plus 2) would work.
CatXX POE uses four of 8 wires which are 23-26 guage.
I like the POE 5VDC power splitter injector.
Since I don't need Cat 5 at my end points I could probably just do some 4 wire shield cable and pin it to the right cat 5e ends right? I have rolls of that stuff from when I installed the alarm system.
Typically 22/4 or 22/2 is used for alarm system switches and PIRs. I would not recommend 22/2 wire for your endeavor. 22/4 (2 plus 2) would work.
CatXX POE uses four of 8 wires which are 23-26 guage.
jtek, give some consideration to how and where you are going to mount your POE injector (your second Amazon link in the post above).
The one you linked to has the input/output jacks on the front, but this one (which I bought) from the same seller on Amazon has inputs/outputs on the side. I wall mounted mine next to my switch, and the side inputs/outputs made for less of a cable mess.
Just a thought.
The one you linked to has the input/output jacks on the front, but this one (which I bought) from the same seller on Amazon has inputs/outputs on the side. I wall mounted mine next to my switch, and the side inputs/outputs made for less of a cable mess.
Just a thought.
Good call thanks! Now off to do this so I can mount my tablet and show smarttiles. If you haven't seen this type of mounting it is pretty ingenious so I thought I would share:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/michelle-and-huy/sets/72157651550555569/
Here is the post where he talks about the items to buy:
https://community.smartthings.com/t/smarttiles-dashboard-theming-custom-css-and-mounting-hardware-ideas/11222/134?u=jtek
https://www.flickr.com/photos/michelle-and-huy/sets/72157651550555569/
Here is the post where he talks about the items to buy:
https://community.smartthings.com/t/smarttiles-dashboard-theming-custom-css-and-mounting-hardware-ideas/11222/134?u=jtek
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