Hello, I want to install about 3-4 ELO touchscreen around the house. I ran two cat5e cable to each location. 1 for vga and 1 for usb. My problem is that I don't know how to run the power for the screen. Can someone explain this to me. I'm solution for a solution that will not violate the electric code. Thanks
Power for IN-WALL TOUCHSCREEN
- Thread starter gasbie
- Start date
pete_c
Guru
Better to utilize a Vesa 100mmX100mm against the wall mounting plate and put a single or double gang with keystone jacks right next to it hiding it some. It won't look "built in" as much but easy. For the kitchen (and office) I put HD keystone jacks and found a very thin RG6 for OTA HD.
I'm redoing my garage TS right now using a Pivot under the counter mount to a 12" touchscreen (vesa mounted) after replacing two 8 inch automotive style touchscreens which have failed on me after 2 years each.
Check the 12VDC draw on your ELO touchscreens and you'll see its probably over 1 AMP and maybe even 2-3 Amps.
I did similiar for my home office LCD, 2 kitchen LCD's and Laundry room LCD.
I have a friend that had a 55" LCD installed as part of a package when he purchased his condo. The TV guy put a hole behind the LCD and passed the power cable to another hole (actually 120VAC outlet) below the TV. The HD, RG6, Component cables were also just in a hole and passed down inside of the drywall to another hole (very much of a hack job and not code).
I'm redoing my garage TS right now using a Pivot under the counter mount to a 12" touchscreen (vesa mounted) after replacing two 8 inch automotive style touchscreens which have failed on me after 2 years each.
Check the 12VDC draw on your ELO touchscreens and you'll see its probably over 1 AMP and maybe even 2-3 Amps.
I did similiar for my home office LCD, 2 kitchen LCD's and Laundry room LCD.
I have a friend that had a 55" LCD installed as part of a package when he purchased his condo. The TV guy put a hole behind the LCD and passed the power cable to another hole (actually 120VAC outlet) below the TV. The HD, RG6, Component cables were also just in a hole and passed down inside of the drywall to another hole (very much of a hack job and not code).
Most local codes allow you to run Class 2 low power <100W (or 5x V if V<20) wires with no conduit requirements.
Just run another pair to each touchscreen (how about some 14-2 speaker wire). When the touchscreens arrive, splice your power supply into the new wire and you are done.
--Bob
Just run another pair to each touchscreen (how about some 14-2 speaker wire). When the touchscreens arrive, splice your power supply into the new wire and you are done.
--Bob
+1
I did for my ELO 1537L touchscreen. I have two other models (I forget the model numbers) which are regular ac power screens. I've only mounted 1 of them, I mounted a power outlet to a wooden casing I made, and put the lcd on an articulating arm for easy access.
mustangcoupe
Senior Member
I agree about using class 2 wiring in the wall. But I would use another wire instead of "speaker wire". You may forget you used it for power in the future... use a wire designed for in wall installation of DC power.
Any links to that wire? I looked before, and never came across in-wall DC power wire?
sda
Active Member
Wire is wire, but insulation isn't. To meet code the insulation has to be for in wall use, i.e. CL2 or better. I would just use NM (romex).
pete_c
Guru
For my LCD TV in the kitchen dining area; the 120VAC power / 6 port Keystone jack are recessed into the wall. The TV is not recessed into the wall but rather on the wall. The Vesa mounting plate is adjacent to the dual in-wall recessed gang box. The wide screen LCD is not framed. If the LCD were to fail then its an easy replacement for similiar or larger LCD.
Difficult to wire though.
For an "in wall" LCD touch screen you would have to supply either 12VDC or 120VAC to it. As posted getting 12VDC to it (with LCD in the wall) is easy but getting 120VAC to it is typically not easy. You can build a recessed "cavity" into the drywall to house your LCD and put a recessed dual gang box inside of the finished cavity maybe making the LCD "flush" with the outside wall. The "recessed" piece allows for the 120VAC power connection to be inside the wall a bit. For my Kitchen LCD I also used very short and thin RG6 cabling.
Difficult to wire though.
For an "in wall" LCD touch screen you would have to supply either 12VDC or 120VAC to it. As posted getting 12VDC to it (with LCD in the wall) is easy but getting 120VAC to it is typically not easy. You can build a recessed "cavity" into the drywall to house your LCD and put a recessed dual gang box inside of the finished cavity maybe making the LCD "flush" with the outside wall. The "recessed" piece allows for the 120VAC power connection to be inside the wall a bit. For my Kitchen LCD I also used very short and thin RG6 cabling.
mustangcoupe
Senior Member
The reason a in wall/flush mount outlet was recommended is because per code you can not bury power connections in the wall. so by surface mountin the screen it is easier to meet code.
and the wire i was thinking about is not going to work it is 18/2 with coax Siamese style wire for cc security cams which is cl2 rated, but will only handle limited current being 18 awg
pete_c
Guru
The smaller 7-9" automotive style LCD's I have use around 1 AMP power coming from a small "brick" but typically powered 12VDC from auto 12VDC supply.
The 12" LCDs that I have (POS style) utilize about 2.5 AMPs.
The 15"-19" TS's either have a 120VAC power input or use a brick of more than 2 AMPs. IE found a 15" TS LCD and the PS is a 4.5 AMP 12VDC brick.
The new ELO monitors have both 12VDC / 120VAC on the backs of them. I have a couple of ELO's that are just 12VDC with large AC/DC bricks.
The 12" LCDs that I have (POS style) utilize about 2.5 AMPs.
The 15"-19" TS's either have a 120VAC power input or use a brick of more than 2 AMPs. IE found a 15" TS LCD and the PS is a 4.5 AMP 12VDC brick.
The new ELO monitors have both 12VDC / 120VAC on the backs of them. I have a couple of ELO's that are just 12VDC with large AC/DC bricks.
