Power Requirements for GRI 2600

[Sacedog]

I am going through and adding up all of the power requirements for the powered sensors that I will be installing. I got to the GRI 2600 liquid detection sensors, and they state that they draw 250Ma for power, and 500Ma for switching current. Does this mean that I need to plan on providing 500Ma to each 2600 sensor???

If so, I was planning on installing 24 of these. Would that mean that I would need 12 Amps just for the water sensors!?!?! This has got to be incorrect.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

My very quick observation:

Read this PDF file from their site. I believe you are confusing the "control" side of this sensor with the input to your system (which is 10 mA).

The "control" side is meant for controlling say a relay in the event of water detection if you desire this type of operation with this sensor.

Maybe others more familiar with this line/sensor can comment on my above conclusions.

 

[Sacedog]

My very quick observation:

Read this PDF file from their site. I believe you are confusing the "control" side of this sensor with the input to your system (which is 10 mA).

The "control" side is meant for controlling say a relay in the event of water detection if you desire this type of operation with this sensor.

Maybe others more familiar with this line/sensor can comment on my above conclusions.

Yeah, I'm an ID-10-T! 240ma is doable. That will put me at 979ma for all of my powered contacts, and 1A for the Elk Water Valve. The 4A Elk power supply should do just fine.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Curious, WOW, 24 of these sensors!!! What are you doing with all those?

 

[Sacedog]

Curious, WOW, 24 of these sensors!!! What are you doing with all those?

One for every toilet, sink, refrigerator (with ice makers), washing machine, dishwashers, and hot water heater. I've experienced water damage first hand before, and it cost me a lot more than the few hundred that the sensors and XIN will cost me.

Most of you will think I am crazy, or wasting money, but here is the breakdown of my 124 zones:

3 CO
13 Door
1 Driveway
3 Furnace Filter
2 Garage Door
1 Gas
4 Gate
8 Glass Break
5 Heat
18 Motion
2 Panic Buttons
1 Smoke
5 Surface
2 Tamper
5 Temperature
2 Washer Dryer Monitor
24 Water
25 Window

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Are you also going to take the ultimate approach to water damage protection with some type of automated shut off valve?

 

[Sacedog]

Are you also going to take the ultimate approach to water damage protection with some type of automated shut off valve?

I will be installing an Elk Water Valve, but have also been looking at another thread where someone had another valve open to drain the system. Even if the water supply is off, there is still a lot of water in the pipes. That will probably come later, but I will have the Elk water valve for now.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Even if the water supply is off, there is still a lot of water in the pipes. That will probably come later, but I will have the Elk water valve for now.

Correct, I was wondering why someone doesn't offer a "three-way" valve and have the house side drain into a container to prevent this.

 

[gregking]

Would the water in the pipes actually drain out if the valve was closed? I figured the limited slope of the supply and the simple vacuum within the lines would keep them from dumping, but I may be wrong.

I would think the biggest concern I would have would be a hot water heater going all at once, but again, I suspect your sensor would detect some minimal leaking several days before a major h/w leak. At least that's what I'm hoping for with my parents' new install.

I agree with the statement about damage, though. I had some little sh##s do some vandalization on my house by putting a water hose at the front door during the night. Eight+ hours water coming under the door does A LOT of damage. Even with that, it's still hard to drop $500 on the shut off valve. A/ you think it'll never happen again or B/ (my luck) I'll have the valve, but the sensor won't catch it, and I'll still get damage!

gk

Are you also going to take the ultimate approach to water damage protection with some type of automated shut off valve?

I will be installing an Elk Water Valve, but have also been looking at another thread where someone had another valve open to drain the system. Even if the water supply is off, there is still a lot of water in the pipes. That will probably come later, but I will have the Elk water valve for now.

 

[politics123]

simply automated sells a three way valve. Essentially, it's a "T" and you always connect to 2 sides of the T. In mode 1, you connect the water supply to the house. In mode 2, you connect the drain to the house