I have a 12vdc video camera power distribution box with 16 channels, each individually fused and each with a max of 500 mA. I have a netgear router that has a 12vdc 1.2 amp wall wart. Can I connect 3 channels from my power supply together in series to get the higher amperage required to replace this wall wart?
power supply to replace high amp wall wart
- Thread starter robolo
- Start date
Connect them in parallel and you should be fine.
Digger
Just so I am clear how this would be wired so as to be in parallel. I will be using 3 channels from the power supply. Can I jumper the three (+) terminals together and then take the lead to the device off the central terminal?
Thanks
mustangcoupe
Senior Member
I dont know If I'd tell someone to just replace the fuse. then you could get into someone replacing all 16 with 1.5 amp fuses and well then you are back to being over the rating of the PS...
a. It has another fuse before it gets distributed.
b. What difference does it make?
By running them in parallel x3 you get 750ma x3 which would allow 2.2 amps through.
Now for longevity the distributed power supply should be rated for twice the load it carries but this will increase it's life. Since this is a 16 port unit I would be surprised if it's rated for less then 4 amp (thats what my 9 channel is but it's PTC). If it's ebay trash however that 4amp is probably stretching it.
Also most of my cams are under 250ma (much closer to 100ma) so you should have quite a bit of room to play.
b. What difference does it make?
By running them in parallel x3 you get 750ma x3 which would allow 2.2 amps through.
Now for longevity the distributed power supply should be rated for twice the load it carries but this will increase it's life. Since this is a 16 port unit I would be surprised if it's rated for less then 4 amp (thats what my 9 channel is but it's PTC). If it's ebay trash however that 4amp is probably stretching it.
Also most of my cams are under 250ma (much closer to 100ma) so you should have quite a bit of room to play.
I am sure your unit has a main fuse on the distribution board but not necessarily all do (and the original poster does not say his does). Also if you replace the fuse with a higher rated fuse you could void the warranty and or UL/ETL listings etc. But if you parallel all 3 together you should be fine as long as there is no significant surge (unlikely from a camera but not impossible). Most likely the ouptut is rated 500 ma but the fuse is probably already 1 or 3 A anyway.
Most Altronix, Preferred Power, Platinum Power, Honeywell etc supplies have the main fuse you are referring to but I remember one from a few years ago (B-Tron I think) that did not. I personally prefer PTC's but from a mfg standpoint they are more expensive.
Edit : typo
Lagerhead
Active Member
I was not aware of these, and this thread prompted me to do some research. I see they are available battery-ready and with a range of features and capabilities.
Are these "popular" among Cocooners in HA use, I suppose would be mainly to replace the proliferation of wall warts, but for other uses as well?
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
I am interested in this ass well to reduce the wall wart acne. My main concern is where to get the plug and how to get them on the wires?
Would i need to be soldering on all these barrel connectors or can i buy them with long (say 3' or so) pigtails?
Would i need to be soldering on all these barrel connectors or can i buy them with long (say 3' or so) pigtails?
If you are talking about the end that connects to the device I just cut the original cord from the wall wart, toss the transformer, and attach the cut end of the original cord to the distributed power supply.
hult
Active Member
You will want to apply caution in hooking up multiple devices that were designed to be powered by the individual, _isolated_ supplies that wall warts provide to a supply with a common ground and V+ ( not isolated) such as the one for video cameras that is cited.
I do things a bit differently, using isolated DC-DC converters from nominal 24vdc and 48vdc supplies that are backed by deep cycle batteries. This 1) eliminates the need for AC uninteruptable power supplies (UPS's) 2) provides complete isolation between channels, and 3) provides current limiting. There are typically converters on ebay. I have accumulated way too many and will try to write some up to put on my porch sale at www.ECOntrol.org/porch_sale.htm.
For connectors, I use and can recommend "Anderson Powerpole" connectors. (Google) The plugs are hermaphroditic (i.e., genderless; there is no male and female; each plug will plug into an identical one and still one maintain polarity). They are available in 7-8 different colors and numerous amperage ratings. The 10 amp versions are perfect for wall-wart replacement and Power Over Ethernet (POE) applications. One can snap 2, 3 or more connectors together in various combinations and orientations for different voltages. So Black +Red for 12vdc; Back + Yellow for 5vdc, Black + Red+ Yellow for 12 and 5vdc etc. I use 50amp connectors for the battery chargers for my 1967 electric VW beetle and 200amp for the connectors from the main batteries to the 24vdc supply for my home's DC lighting system.
I'll try to take some pix of applications.
... Marc
PaulD
Active Member
Do they make a 12VDC with isolated outputs for multiple devices? All the ones I have found appear to use a common ground even where they have a fuse or PTL in each output circuit. If they do include isolated circuits, the limited specs do not say anything about it.
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
I guess that HAI unit shown by BSR on the front page woudl do the trick nicely as well...
tmbrown97
Senior Member
I've been curious about this too, and considering posting something... In my livingroom, I currently have about 12 wall-warts - and a handful more around the house in other areas - but the livingroom has the highest concentration. Not all are 12V, but a lot of them are... I would soooo love to get rid of a bunch of them... Anyone have any great suggestions that would look pretty good?
