Sensor wiring issue

[scottgoodman]

All,

Am in the finishing stages on a new home, and had a professional run wires to all the doors in our home. I assumed, incorrectly, that he did it properly and now that the house is drywalled and in the stages of being finished we did a test and none of the wires show continuity.

My question now is what are my options? I know Elk makes a wireless module and wireless door contacts, but is there a less expensive option? Insteon has a sensor, but I am not sure it will trigger an alarm. 4 wireless sensors and the elk module are quite pricey. Anything less obtrusive?

Thanks!

 

[jpmargis]

It seems very strange that none of the doors show continuity.  How did you conduct the test?  How about getting your professional back to check his work?

 

[scottgoodman]

He said he would come back when he installs the central vac, in a months time.

I just want a plan in case he can't get the wires themselves to work. I conducted a continuity test with a multimeter.

Any suggestions?

 

[jpmargis]

I don't know your level of expertise, so please don't be offended.  I'll assume that the contacts and the EOLRs are not installed.  Far ends twisted or jumpered together?  Near ends positively known to correspond with the far ends?  If not, check them all.  Meter set to beep or low ohms?
 
If the contacts and EOLRs are installed, are you sure the contact is being activated by the door magnet?  Is the meter set to a high enough range for the EOLR?
 
Perhaps you could run a long lead over to the door and check each wire individually.
 
As a backup plan, your professional should be able to find the breaks and make surgical incisions to repair them.  A little paint touch up will be required to put everything in order.

 

[snakevargas]

For my system, I'm using an elk ge receiver and icon door contacts. The wireless icon plungers were very easy to install and so far have been working flawlessly.

 

[kurtmccaslin]

In my house, the alarm installer installed the contacts without the magnets.    That was the basic install.   If I wanted to buy their monitoring service, they would install the panel and the magnets.   The magnets are pretty easy to install if you need to do it yourself.   Also, your installer may be coming to finish at a later date.

 

[scottgoodman]

I haven't put sensors or EOLR's yet, I was jut testing the wires.

Can't find those icon wireless plunge sensors. Any idea where to look?

 

[RAL]

How are you making your continuity measurements?  Did you connect the red and black wire together, say at the door end of the cable, and then make a resistance measurement between red and black at the other end?  It would help to know exactly how you are making these measurements.

 

[scottgoodman]

Yes. That is exactly what I did. I also tried connecting my sensor and magnet to test and couldn't see a difference between open and close.

 

[bucko]

At the sensor end you just connect the 2 wires together. At the panel end (NOT connected to the panel) you should see a dead short on these same 2 wires. Maybe a few ohms resistance if the wire run is long. But basically it is a short.  That's it. 
 
If you read an open, the wire run is damaged somewhere along the run. Your contractor should be responsible to correct these wires. Still I find it very strange that ALL your wires are open. Either he has no idea how to run sensor wires or you simply don't have your wires mapped correctly.
 
I would go to every sensor wire you have and connect each one at the sensor end together. Then back at the panel run your ohm test again on each wire end.
 
Last resort go get a wire tracer to send a tone down the wire. Then using the toner, move it along the wire run and listen for the tone.

 

[RAL]

Can't find those icon wireless plunge sensors. Any idea where to look?

 
I think he was referring to the ION series of wireless sensors.
 
Here is an example of a GE compatible one that could be used with an ELK M1.
 
http://www.automatedoutlet.com/Home/Wireless-Sensors/ISP-Plunger-G
 
Note that ION makes several versions that work with different wireless systems.  So if you end up going this route,
make sure you get the right type.

 

[scottgoodman]

Thanks. I will ask him to test the wires and look for breaks. Opening up the walls at this point will be incredibly costly, as we are almost ready for the kitchen to go in. Wireless may be my only option and I will have to deduct the additional costs for wireless from his remaining balance.

 

[Del91574]

Are you sure there's no junctions?
 
It's exceptionally odd and rare for NONE of the cabling to have continuity with the far ends twisted together. I have seen an overzealous plumber and HVAC tech take a saw or cutters to a trunk run that was in their way, but IMHO, the alarm guy should have planned out their runs better.
 
Is the wiring continuous?
 
Most vac guys and plenty of prewire specials only drop tails or small portions of wire at the location(s) and pull a bare minimum back to the home location....the point being they're gambling on whether or not the system is going to be completed (ever!) and by them.
 
Not to sound pedantic, but are you sure that your meter and leads are functioning properly?

 

[scottgoodman]

Everything is labeled as home rubbed, and he hasn't indicated that it's all junctioned together at some point. With our automation plans, junctioned wouldn't work for us (I.e. Opening the basement door versus the front door will have different rules). I agree that this sounds odd, but all of the wires for the windows work, it's just the 4 doors.

 

[scottgoodman]

Iphone autocorrect..... Home runned...