Show me your flood sensor

Thanks to everyone.

So the sensors need to be accessible, but they'll probably be good for 10 years before corrosion is an issue (depending, of course, on environment).

Monk - that position is perfect, below the vanity. Those sensors aren't small, they're tiny!

I hadn't considered a mop setting it off. Maybe some kind of perforated enclosure? Modded plastic circuit project box, with slats extending to floor? I'll take a look at Mouser and Radio Shack. If it's behind the toilet, and painted, attached to the baseboard, the box shouldn't be too bad.

I'll [try to] run the 22/4 to the area behind the MBa toilet as soon as it arrives - hopefully before the painter is all done, with other parts of the house. I hope there's no fire stop...

Edit - Mouser has a tremendous selection of 'project boxes'.
 
I received an email from Newark Electronics - the Belden 22/4 I ordered from them was discontinued.

I'll pick some up from the local electric distributor tomorrow - Coleman 500', in stock. $50. I think I'll go with a green jacket for flood sensors.
 
Two thing putting them behind the toilet on the baseboard is problmatic, I have had people cleaning the floor set them off. Make sure they don't get hit with a wet mop!

Also has anyone tried chaining several of these together to one zone?
 
I installed mine with the contact area facing down (device screwed into the wall not floor) and raised off of the floor about 1/8 inch. This way it is not easy to trip it by accident but you know if you have a flood. So far so good.

I test them about once a year by using a spray bottle with water. Once it trips I use a paper towel to dry it as best as possible and wait a while before I reset the system.
 
Sorry for waking an old thread, but this seems like the best place. I recently had a pipe freeze and now have the opportunity to put a sensor on it since the dry wall is open. What would be the best way to put a sensor on this setup?

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This picture has all of the unsulation removed. I suspect connecting the gri sensor to the PEX below the last joint gives me the best chance since gravity will make the water flow down the pipes and trigger. Alternatively I could just put the sensor in the very bottom of the wall where the PEX goes through the sub floor. It will take longer to get there but should work too. Any thoughts?
 
You might also consider sealing the hole where the pipe goes out. That's probably how the cold got in to freeze it.
 
2-3 sensors? How likely will it freeze again?

I don't think physically on the pipe would be the best - water tends to run down in 'rivulets', and may miss it.

If only 1 place, I'd put it on the bottom plate myself.
 
It froze because I left the hose on. Odds are I won't do that again, it was a $1000 mistake. But with my early onset Alzheimers you never know. I'll seal it though.

Chuck
 
Sorry for waking an old thread, but this seems like the best place. I recently had a pipe freeze and now have the opportunity to put a sensor on it since the dry wall is open. What would be the best way to put a sensor on this setup?


Wrap the pipe tightly with a sponge and ziptie in place. Then ziptie the sensor with the contacts against the sponge. If the pipe leaks, the sponge will get soaked and trip the sensor. Put it right below the copper->PEX fitting so you can catch it if that joint leaks. By using the sponge, you eliminate the possibility that the water running down the pipe will miss your sensor contacts.

I would probably cut the sponge so it's no more than 1/4" thick, and just large enough to wrap the pipe. The more sponge you have, the longer it will take to get soaked.
 
Great tip, on the sponge.

How does leaving the hose attached contribute to freezing? My hose is outside, attached to an open spigot valve. The other valve, located in the garage ceiling, is closed.

Hucker, what's inside that space - what type of room is that? Would a visible access panel be too much of an eyesore?
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I've used a few of these cheap access panels from HD/Lowes, in closets. They don't require any drywall work to install - just pop it in the hole. Nicer looking and more durable options are available elsewhere, from electrical and plumbing supply houses. You could keep the access panel in place for a year, and replace with drywall down the road, after another cold winter or 2. The access panel will allow you to troubleshoot and test the water sensor.
 
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