I have a local alarm system that sounds a loud siren but has no monitoring capability. I want to obtain a sound sensor that will trigger a POTS dialer (which I must purchase) to notify GeoAlarm or Next Alarm or some other monitoring service of an alarm. I cannot find a sound sensor to buy - only glass breakage or motion sensors. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Sam
Sound Sensor (not glass breakage)
- Thread starter Sam333
- Start date
The Sensaphone monitoring systems (e.g. the models 400 and 800) have a built in microphone that will trigger on loud sounds and dial a call to either 4 or 8 numbers to report the event. I'm don't think GeoAlarm or Next Alarm and would accept automated calls from the Sensaphone, though. They simply play automated voice messages describing the event and the id of the caller.
The Sensaphone does have a dry contact relay output that could be used to trigger a conventional alarm panel or other POTS dialer that is able to communicate with a central station. But it is a rather expensive solution.
http://www.sensaphone.com/sensaphone_400.php
A cheap solution would be to build a circuit like this one. The output LED could easily be replaced with an opto-isolator that could trigger an alarm panel or POTS dialer.
http://www.redcircuits.com/Page16.htm
The Sensaphone does have a dry contact relay output that could be used to trigger a conventional alarm panel or other POTS dialer that is able to communicate with a central station. But it is a rather expensive solution.
http://www.sensaphone.com/sensaphone_400.php
A cheap solution would be to build a circuit like this one. The output LED could easily be replaced with an opto-isolator that could trigger an alarm panel or POTS dialer.
http://www.redcircuits.com/Page16.htm
Maybe look into Louroe electronics. I don't know if they make any single zone monitoring units but it's worth a look.
http://www.louroe.com/
http://www.louroe.com/
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
http://www.specialtyalarms.com/site/1313932/product/70-801
They also sell autodialers.
Of course, you would have to ensure this doesn't get triggered by false alarms and can reliably trigger on your siren by extensive testing!
They also sell autodialers.
Of course, you would have to ensure this doesn't get triggered by false alarms and can reliably trigger on your siren by extensive testing!
pete_c
Guru
I utiized the Sensaphone stuff in the 1980s/1990's (don't remember anymore). It did have built in speech (recorded though). I was very impressed with it as it never did break or quit functioning.
As a DIY thing I did purchase a tiny switch that uses a microphone (sound) to trigger.
Sound Sensor Module $2.70
Voltage 12VDC to 5VDC was $1.30
Debounce circuit board was $5.50
Much of the stuff sold on the following site is for arduino projects.
http://www.wayengineer.com/
Shipping was just shy of a month. I could track it from beginning to end. I was impressed.
As a DIY thing I did purchase a tiny switch that uses a microphone (sound) to trigger.
Sound Sensor Module $2.70
Voltage 12VDC to 5VDC was $1.30
Debounce circuit board was $5.50
Much of the stuff sold on the following site is for arduino projects.
http://www.wayengineer.com/
Shipping was just shy of a month. I could track it from beginning to end. I was impressed.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Come to think of it, I recently ordered two of a few types of those boards to play around with based on another post I saw of yours Pete. I will have to play around with the one with the built in sound/vibration sensor on it.
Sam333, what type/model of siren so you have in your security system?
Sam333, what type/model of siren so you have in your security system?
In 1976, when my house was built, Westinghouse Security Systems (which was taken over by WESTEC SECURITY SERVICES installed a wired system. I don't have a model # but attached are pictures of the control panel & "blue box". The system includes 4 panels with speakers that sound a siren during fire or burglary or panic button. The system used to dial a central station but the dialer has not worked for years. I can't find anyone in Chicago to service this 37 year old system. They would be glad to install a new system. I am very happy with the present system but would like to have it monitored when I am away.
BraveSirRobbin said:
pete_c
Guru
Welcome to the forum Sam.
Personally I wouldn't bother wasting my time or efforts on repair of existing alarm panel.
I'm guessing you already got quotes to update panel and set you up with a new service.
That said personally I would remove the panel and replace it.
I would also validate end to end wiring and loops and replace all of the sensors, consoles, et al.
This would be the least expensive piece of the endeavor.
The most expensive piece of your endeavor would be the time involved checking the wires, loops et.
The wiring is probably just fine. Depending on how the sensors were wired you may have many loops.
BTW I am using still today much Moose / Elk stuff dating back to the 1980's / 90's and have to date never had an issue with hardware that I purchased.
Today I have two HAI Omnipro panels installed in two homes; one now for over 10 years with no issues and the other one some 6 years with no issues.
The above noted many users on this forum have Elk panels installed over a similiar time frame and have had no issues with said panels.
Personally I wouldn't bother wasting my time or efforts on repair of existing alarm panel.
I'm guessing you already got quotes to update panel and set you up with a new service.
That said personally I would remove the panel and replace it.
I would also validate end to end wiring and loops and replace all of the sensors, consoles, et al.
This would be the least expensive piece of the endeavor.
The most expensive piece of your endeavor would be the time involved checking the wires, loops et.
The wiring is probably just fine. Depending on how the sensors were wired you may have many loops.
BTW I am using still today much Moose / Elk stuff dating back to the 1980's / 90's and have to date never had an issue with hardware that I purchased.
Today I have two HAI Omnipro panels installed in two homes; one now for over 10 years with no issues and the other one some 6 years with no issues.
The above noted many users on this forum have Elk panels installed over a similiar time frame and have had no issues with said panels.
There are 11 loops that are connected in series. All the loops are accessable & come together in the basement. The wireing/sensors must be good because the system works well. Maybe I could combine some of the loops into 5 or 6 loops and put a wireless sensor on each loop & install a brand new system. It would be easy to check the ohms/resistance of each loop. Could you suggest a wireless sensor that would detect a break/open in a loop? What would be a good wireless system that I could plug into an RJ11 to dial my cell phone? I would just leave the old panels alone/disconnected. Thanks for your help.
pete_c said:
pete_c
Guru
Personally I would prefer utilizing the wiring before going to something wireless; after all the wires are already there anyways.
Here I would be biased a bit and only suggest the currently utilized wireless methodologies and devices used for either an HAI panel, Elk panel or whatever other standard alarm panels exists today. That said I did in the 80's play some with it and it really was a PITA to concern myself with batteries (house was some 6500 sf or so)
That is me though.
Historically played with wireless X10 years ago.
I have yet to date played with wireless Insteon, Z-Wave or Zibee PIRs etc.
Its up to you.
What kind of budget are you looking at?
Are you considering the endeavor as a DIY or are you going to subcontract someone?
BTW you could also tap into your alarm panel as it is with a wireless 3g/4g modem alarm box-device and DIY your dial up stuff for less than $100 these days.
I agree but here is the problem. There are many window bugs on fixed windows & wired screens on windows that open. The resistance in the perimeter burglary circuit has gone up from 80 ohms to 120 ohms in the past 35 years. This includes all of the 11 loops in series. The loop with the maximum resistance is 30 ohms. If I could buy a central panel that can accept 5 or 6 separate loops, maybe the high resistance won't be a problem. I can easily combine some of the loops.
""What kind of budget are you looking at? Are you considering the endeavor as a DIY or are you going to subcontract someone?""
Budget is not a problem. I like to fix things myself if I can. If the central panel/system is not too complicated I think I can handle it. Sam
pete_c
Guru
I personally would entertain repairing or redoing the window sensors.
If its a DIY take your time while continuing to utilize the working alarm looping the zone at the panel one at a time.
A few years back I connected my alarm prewire some 6 or so years after construction to a new OmniPro II panel. The wires were labeled and not terminated. i did a few terminations a day while there over a span of some two weeks. Every window and door sensor was wired to the panel such that I have no loops. That said even with the wires labeled I terminated and checked the values one at a time. It seemed painstakingly slow to me but I enjoyed the busy work. A year later I updated a neighbors older home with an older alarm panel to an HAI OPII. (gratis). Guessing that it was wired up in the late 60's or early 70's. Every door and window was wired in zones per room. i just checked all of the terminations / loop values and replaced what I considered non functioning and keep the same loops in place when connecting the old wires to the new panel. I never added new wires even for the consoles I installed. Thinking back it took maybe two days 4 hours a day?
That said you mentioned that the alarm panel is functioning fine.
I recall having similiar wired screens on the house mentioned above. In fact all of the windows with screens had this set up and configured. It was just a couple of wires to a connector in the window frame. Maybe cleaning the connection betwee the terminals will change your loop values. You can probably just short out the two terminals to get some values and compare the difference. Today I am not sure of the methodology utiized on those screens nor what the replacement cost would be.
That said during the period from contruction to sale of the home many years later; I never did have to replace the screens and the alarm functioned fine. I never did check the circuit / loop values back then though. I did also utilize wireless sensors at the time and they were a PITA to maintain and had a large footprint. I also had these in wall recessed motion sensors near all of the stairwells. These would get dusty or would get cobwebs inside of them and trigger false positives.
If its a DIY take your time while continuing to utilize the working alarm looping the zone at the panel one at a time.
A few years back I connected my alarm prewire some 6 or so years after construction to a new OmniPro II panel. The wires were labeled and not terminated. i did a few terminations a day while there over a span of some two weeks. Every window and door sensor was wired to the panel such that I have no loops. That said even with the wires labeled I terminated and checked the values one at a time. It seemed painstakingly slow to me but I enjoyed the busy work. A year later I updated a neighbors older home with an older alarm panel to an HAI OPII. (gratis). Guessing that it was wired up in the late 60's or early 70's. Every door and window was wired in zones per room. i just checked all of the terminations / loop values and replaced what I considered non functioning and keep the same loops in place when connecting the old wires to the new panel. I never added new wires even for the consoles I installed. Thinking back it took maybe two days 4 hours a day?
That said you mentioned that the alarm panel is functioning fine.
I recall having similiar wired screens on the house mentioned above. In fact all of the windows with screens had this set up and configured. It was just a couple of wires to a connector in the window frame. Maybe cleaning the connection betwee the terminals will change your loop values. You can probably just short out the two terminals to get some values and compare the difference. Today I am not sure of the methodology utiized on those screens nor what the replacement cost would be.
That said during the period from contruction to sale of the home many years later; I never did have to replace the screens and the alarm functioned fine. I never did check the circuit / loop values back then though. I did also utilize wireless sensors at the time and they were a PITA to maintain and had a large footprint. I also had these in wall recessed motion sensors near all of the stairwells. These would get dusty or would get cobwebs inside of them and trigger false positives.
