Switch suggestion please


I installed a flourescent light yesterday and since the power went to the light first and I was using 14/2 I don't have a neutral wire in the switch box.

I need an x10 compatible light switch that will handle this load that doesn't require a neutal wire - is there such a thing?

All the Smarthome no-neutral-required switches are for incandescent lighting.

Sorry, Thomas, but I'm afraid you may be stuck.

The two-wire X10 switches work because the X10 signal has no problem going through the filament of an incandescent light. The same is not necessarily true for other types of loads.

My only suggestion would be to try a higher-quality two-wire dimmer, like a SwitchLinc, disable the ramp, ALWAYS turn it on to 100%, and see if they get along. And don't be very disappointed if it doesn't work.
Thanks Rocco.. I was afraid of that.

I guess one solution would be to open the wall back up and wire in a fixture module. I've got a spare - I'll probably just go that route.

The most common solution is to put a fixture module into the flurescent light and change the wiring of the 14-2 going to the switch so that it is an "always on" hot plus neutral. Use a single address transmitter where the switch was and it will look and feel just like a regular switch.

You can use an Insteon or Icon switch for the wall tansmitter and just don't connect the load wire to anything. (Be sure to put a wire nut on the unused wire to insulate it.) Assign it the X-10 address of your fixture module and you are all set.
I may not be following everything mentioned in this thread correctly, but you have two wires from your always hot light fixture to your switch. Would it be feasible to run an "always hot" hot and neutral to that switch, then place an "in-line" X-10 module between the hot and the light fixture. Then use something like a switchlinc switch that transmits an X-10 signal for that in-line module.

Not an elegant (or cost effective) solution, but I'm just throwing it out there! :)

EDIT I see upstatemike suggested the same thing as I did (only his is non-X-10, but the general theory is the same). Sorry, I had my edit window open for to long! :lol:
Splendid idea...

I rewired the light to always hot, wired in a fixture module and replaced the switch with a keypadlinc I had lying around.

All is wonderful.

I don't know why I don't think of these creative solutions. I've been playing with x10 for about 6 months and have around 50 devices around the property - you'd think I'd get it by now.....

As always, thank you very much!

tbradnc said:
Splendid idea...
I don't know why I don't think of these creative solutions.
This very reason is why CocoonTech.com exists, to give help and suggestions when one is in need of it!

Glad you got it working! :D
Well, so much for paradise.

My wife doesn't like the new deal on her new light (I put it up at her request).

1. She doesn't like the clunk the relay makes.
2. She doesn't like keypadlincs.. 'Said "I'd rather have an ordinary switch".

Should I not be able to use a regular non-dimming togglelinc (she prefers toggle to decora) in place of the keypadlinc now that the switch box has a neutral? That'll take care of problem #2.

I expect Leviton or someone makes a quieter relay, no?

Many thanks
tbradnc said:
Well, so much for paradise.

My wife doesn't like the new deal on her new light (I put it up at her request).
Oh Thomas! :eek:

Seems like your having one of those bad WAF experiences that makes us fellow HA enthusiasts cringe! :(

Hopefully someone can chime in who has used on of those Leviton in-line modules (for fluorescent lighting) or can recommend another manufacturer for you. Maybe send Martin of Automated Outlet a PM and see if he knows of any.

For what it’s worth, I’m now burning some incense to the HA gods in the hopes of obtaining some good karma for you! :D
A Switchlinc 23885 relay switch hardly makes any noise at all. Even up close to the switch, it makes a barely audible click. You could then have a tgglelinc slave to control it.
I would replace the keypadlinc with a 23890 ToggleLinc (currently on sale for $39.95). This give you a toggle switch transmitter that does the same thing as the keypadlinc.

You don't have enough wires for a ToggleLinc slave which needs a hot, neutral, and traveller wire.

If the clunking is truly a problem, you can replace the fixture relay with a 23885 relay switch as Guy suggests.
Yes, but he would also need some kind of junction box correct? Hmm, I guess he would already have one since he was using an in-line module anyway.