Tamper switch to protect Elk can advice

WayneW

WayneW

Senior Member
Is anybody using a tamper switch to protect their Elk (or other brand) wiring box/panel? Basically, this is a switch/sensor on the door to instantly alarm if the cover is opened. My previous alarm panel (an OLD Radio Shack unit) had pre-drilled holes for mounting plunger switches front and rear so it would alarm if the door was opened or if it was ripped off the wall.

The M1 manual mentions that a tamper switch is required from a UL approved install, but doesn't give any mounting advice. the only tamper switch I see on AO's site is the GE NX-005 How well does that mount/work?


I was watching "It takes a thief" on Discovery and the victim had an old Moose Z11000 that the homeowner didn't know anything about and wasn't monitored. Even after they replaced it with a new alarm panel, the thief broke in and actually opened the panel door and could have easily cut wires before the alarm sounded. A bad combination of no motion sensors around the panel, leaving the key in the panel box and no tamper switch. ;)
 
I use standard stick on magnetic switches, the ugly surface mount ones you don't want to use inside the house. The magnet goes on the movable door and the switch goes on the cabinet. I secure it with RTV and haven't had a problem.
 
The tamper is only requried in a Commercial Burg install (I made them put the requirement in the manual). I cant remember the model number that they tested with the ELK Can but I think it may have been an Amseco which was recetnly bought out by Potter. I just had the Potter sales rep in the other day.

The potter website is here
 
WayneW said:
I was watching "It takes a thief" on Discovery and the victim had an old Moose Z11000 that the homeowner didn't know anything about and wasn't monitored.
Click to expand...


I saw that episode too. Even with the tamper switch, if they get in the panel and know what to cut in just a few seconds, there isn't time for the dial-out to the monitor company, and the siren would only go off for a second or two.

I guess the moral of the story is to protect access to the panel, or somehow hide it so it's unlikely anyone could find it in less than the entry delay plus about 30 seconds to dial out.

The rock through those triple-pane windows made quite a mess, huh?
 
rfdesq said:
I use standard stick on magnetic switches, the ugly surface mount ones you don't want to use inside the house. The magnet goes on the movable door and the switch goes on the cabinet. I secure it with RTV and haven't had a problem.
Click to expand...

I have done the same a time or two, 3M double stick is pretty strong. I also have done this with the M1XRF.
 
My can is 1/2 sunk into the wall. It would be quite hard to rip it out. I also use one of those ugly stick-on magnetic switches like rfdesq. One other thing I did was to add magnetic stick on switches to the inside of electric panel door located on the outside wall of my garage outside my house. I also added the same to my D-mark doors for cable and phone access. All of these contacts are set for instant.

Rod
 
I feel like I am missing something. I did think about putting a tamper switch on the panel, but then I thought that anybody who can open the panel can flip the "off" switch in a second. No need to know which wire to cut: there is a blinking LED with a switch next to it!... So even an instant alarm wouldn't sound for more than a second and, unless you have an Anynet (and even then...), the dialer is not going to make it either.

Where's the flaw?

I can see the use of the tamper switch to log accesses to the panel (and prevent your unfriendly pal or contractor to mess up with the alarm), but I don't see it preventing any kind of burglary.

Now, it does sound like a good idea to reinforce access and motion control around the panel to give the panel enough time to dial out (and use hardwired instead of wireless).

Laurent
 
The elk can has three holes specifically for a tamper switch. There are another three holes for a second switch to point out backwards to prevent it from being ripped off the wall.

The reed switch is a small black thing with no mounting bracket. It has three holes that match the can. I cant remember where I got them from . I think it was AO, but I have not seen any since and they are not supplied with the M1 any more.

I can have a look at home if anyone is interested.

Mick
 
Laurent said:
I feel like I am missing something. I did think about putting a tamper switch on the panel, but then I thought that anybody who can open the panel can flip the "off" switch in a second. No need to know which wire to cut: there is a blinking LED with a switch next to it!... So even an instant alarm wouldn't sound for more than a second and, unless you have an Anynet (and even then...), the dialer is not going to make it either.

Where's the flaw?

I can see the use of the tamper switch to log accesses to the panel (and prevent your unfriendly pal or contractor to mess up with the alarm), but I don't see it preventing any kind of burglary.

Now, it does sound like a good idea to reinforce access and motion control around the panel to give the panel enough time to dial out (and use hardwired instead of wireless).

Laurent
Click to expand...

The tamper is there also for when the system is disarmed. If someone was to go into the panel and try and bypass a zone etc on the terminal block so you would be unprotected on that zone when you do arm the system. This way as soon as they open the can you get a tamper.
 
Please do, I am interested in what you have and where you got it.

znelbok said:
The elk can has three holes specifically for a tamper switch. There are another three holes for a second switch to point out backwards to prevent it from being ripped off the wall.

The reed switch is a small black thing with no mounting bracket. It has three holes that match the can. I cant remember where I got them from . I think it was AO, but I have not seen any since and they are not supplied with the M1 any more.

I can have a look at home if anyone is interested.

Mick
Click to expand...
 
Here is another option. The ELK can also has a couple holes where the door can be screwed closed in addition to or in place of the key lock. A lever-type micro switch could be mounted inside. The switch would close only when a screw is fully inserted providing a secure closed loop alarm circuit. Use a fairly long screw to keep the door closed. By the time the person tampering with the panel gets the screw out to open it, there should be adequate time for an audible or communicated tamper alarm. Hope this is helpful.

Boomer
 
I also have a tamper switch on the can door. I could not find a switch matching the holes on the can so I driled my own....
 
These are the switches I mentioned in a previous post.

http://www.grisk.com/specialty/tamper_box_switch.htm

The three holes in the body match the M1 can (actually thought it was built for them). They come with a small fly-lead (TSW-01) which is not long enough to reach on its own unfortunately.

I have found that the plunger can foul on the box a little due to the paint that was added after it was cut out. A "paper gasket" underneath fixes the problem.

Mick
 
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