UPB signal strength test Bad rocker switch?

[mikefamig]

I installed a SA rocker dimmer a while back and just got around to adding it to the UPB system using upstart software this morning. The switch operates the local load correctly which is a 4' fluorescent  fixture with two 4' tubes. I only noticed a problem after enrolling the switch via upstart.
 
The problem is that the switch has a signal strength of 3 and does not make an audible buzz when the rocker is pressed. I hadn't noticed in the past that it did not buzz but it has probably been that way since installed.
 
All of the other switched in the same garage report a signal strength of 30 and no noise on any tests. The switches are all set to report light level when pressed.
 
I've come to the conclusion that the switch is faulty. Do you guys know of anything else that could cause these symptoms?
 
Mike.

 

[pete_c]

Not much to offer other than trying to switch switch with a hot working spare?
 
Here made a widget with a lightbulb in a rubber base with a testing UPB switch to test the switches.  I have only used it once though.
 
Guessing you sat in the garage with a laptop / PIM plugged in to an outlet while concurrently checking the signals of the switches there?

 

[mikefamig]

Not much to offer other than trying to switch switch with a hot working spare?
 
Here made a widget with a lightbulb in a rubber base with a testing UPB switch to test the switches.  I have only used it once though.
 
Guessing you sat in the garage with a laptop / PIM plugged in to an outlet while concurrently checking the signals of the switches there?

 
Yes I had to plug the PIM into an AC socket very near the switch in order to read it and program it. It does send and receive but the signal is very weak. I even unplugged the fluorescent lamp so that there is no load on the switch and still the same. I don't have a spare switch to try unless I borrow it from another location but I will check the wiring when I get a chance.
 
Mike.

 

[pete_c]

An AC socket near the switch doesn't always mean it is on the same phase. 
 
I am guessing you know what outlets / switches go to what phase of the fuse panel assuming you have at least 2 phases there eh?
 
I do not recall if you put in a sub panel or wired it to the house.  (my last (80's) detached garage had a electrical subpanel.)
 
AND you might have something UPB signal sucking on that phase.  If it is on the same phase then it might be an issue with the UPB switch. 
 
Have hot spare SA switches here if you want ot borrow one; let me know.

 

[mikefamig]

Pete
 
I have 8 SA switches and all have good signal regardless of which phase/bus the PIM in plugged into. It is just the one switch that is weak. The garage has a 60 amp service with a 20 breaker box.
 
The switch in question is in a four gang box containing four SA switches. The questionable switch is connected to the same line and neutral of the adjacent switch in the box (and all 4 for that matter). As a a test I removed the load from the questionable switch and the adjacent switch and swapped them. The problem stayed with the same switch and the other switch operated the fluorescent lamp fine and maintained a strong signal. This tells me that the problem is not with the load (fluorescent lamp) and both switches are on the same line and neutral so I am ready to condemn the switch.
 
Also I noticed that the faulty switch is buzzing now but maybe I just couldn't hear it earlier....I can't say for certain.
 
Mike.

 

[pete_c]

so I am ready to condemn the switch.
 
Do it Mike; really it appears that your have exhausted all of your testing and confirmed that the switch is bad. (well low signal)
 
I have a few of the 1000 watt lamp switches and one older PCS UPB switch buzzes if I pay attention to it.  It works fine though.
 
A signal of 3 is really low.  Does it turn on and off with Upstart.  Guessing it would even with a low signal that you can see.

 

[mikefamig]

so I am ready to condemn the switch.
 
Do it Mike; really it appears that your have exhausted all of your testing and confirmed that the switch is bad. (well low signal)

 
I contacted SA earlier today and I just received an RMA number from them so I'll get it out to them tomorrow.
 

I have a few of the 1000 watt lamp switches and one older PCS UPB switch buzzes if I pay attention to it.  It works fine though.
 
A signal of 3 is really low.  Doe, it turn on and off with Upstart.  Guessing it would even with a low signal that you can see.

 
The reason that I plugged the PIM into an outlet very near the switch is because the signal has less distance to travel that way. Upstart can see the switch from that outlet and only from that outlet which is what allowed me to enroll the device and do a signal test.This is also why the other switches have a signal strength of 30, their signal is lower when measured from the house. Upstart can not see the faulty switch from the house at all.

 

[mikefamig]

My new switch should arrive tommorow in the mail. SA found the switch that I returned to have a very weak signal due to a current leak through an internal capacitor. That Upstart software is a great troubleshooting tool for UPB.
 
Mike.

 

[ano]

I haven't found the SA switches to be all that reliable of late. I only have two 3-speed fan controllers and both have died within 5 months.  One had a bad power supply and was fixed under warranty but it has died again.  Another one "got stuck" and would run the fan at a minimum of low irregardless of the setting. The only way i could turn it off was to pull the power disconnect.

 

[mikefamig]

I haven't found the SA switches to be all that reliable of late. I only have two 3-speed fan controllers and both have died within 5 months.  One had a bad power supply and was fixed under warranty but it has died again.  Another one "got stuck" and would run the fan at a minimum of low irregardless of the setting. The only way i could turn it off was to pull the power disconnect.

Well it sucks to hear that but time will tell and it is nice that the technology is standardized to the point that I can replace a switch with a higher grade different brand if it becomes a problem.
 
Mike