UPB - Simply Automated US2-40 question

[batwater]

I have a US2-40 that I want to use as an "inline" module to control a closet light. The US2-40 will be mounted on the ceiling in a box and will not require a switch plate. My question is, do I have to install a switch plate on this for the unit to function? I cannot find any info in the included documentation that indicates one way or another whether it will work without the plate. The unit does come with a dummy switch plate shell.

Thanks,
-Ben

 

[standon]

Not sure about the inline module thing, I picked up one of these for pretty cheap (cheaper than a US2-40 anyway).

Regardless, it will work, but you'll need a faceplate to program it just initially. To get it into program mode, you have to press up 5 times or so - until the light blinks continuously. You may be able to just poke the holes with a paperclip or something if you don't have a faceplate you could borrow any where else in the house. Up would be top left hole (when looking directly at the switch with light on top) and Down would be bottom left hole. Just click it 5 times to program and you should be set.

Facing Switch:
- <---LED light on top
* 0 <---* is up hole
0 0 <--- row of holes
0 0 <--- row of holes
* 0 <--- * is down hole

 

[Desert_AIP]

I have all of my perimeter security lights on US2-40s in boxes in the attic.
They are all controlled remotely via links.
I programmed them on my bench first so they would be on the right netwrok and have a unit ID and I wouldn't have to walk around the attic and put them in setup mode.
I have a 3 foot 3 wire plug in cord I use for this purpose, capping off all the other wires (especially the brown output) when programming.
I borrowed a switchplate from a US11-40 to get them in setup mode. I put the dummy plate back on to protect the LED, then I wired them up all at once.

Simply Automated actually recommended this over their in line modules because of the higher power rating and thermal protections.
If you wanted timed off functions you could use a US1-40.

I've found 240s for much less than the actual inline modules, probably because they move at a larger volume.

 

[tmbrown97]

Definitely the best way to go over inline for current handling. Also, it doesn't matter much which button you press 5 times - it can be just about any of them - and it can be done with a pen or paperclip pretty easily.

The inline modules have a pretty low power rating - like 300 watts. The switches can handle 12 amps.

 

[JonW]

The inline modules have a pretty low power rating - like 300 watts. The switches can handle 12 amps.

The switches are 900 watts or 7.5 amps.

 

[Desert_AIP]

The switches are 900 watts or 7.5 amps.

In a 4x4 box (single gang) I believe the load capacity would be 600W.

900W requires a 3 gang box according to the delimiting table.
I guess you could wire it by itself in a 3 gang box in the attic.
I prefer the metal handy boxes for wiring things in the attic.

 

[batwater]

I have all of my perimeter security lights on US2-40s in boxes in the attic.
They are all controlled remotely via links.
I programmed them on my bench first so they would be on the right netwrok and have a unit ID and I wouldn't have to walk around the attic and put them in setup mode.
I have a 3 foot 3 wire plug in cord I use for this purpose, capping off all the other wires (especially the brown output) when programming.
I borrowed a switchplate from a US11-40 to get them in setup mode. I put the dummy plate back on to protect the LED, then I wired them up all at once.

Simply Automated actually recommended this over their in line modules because of the higher power rating and thermal protections.
If you wanted timed off functions you could use a US1-40.

I've found 240s for much less than the actual inline modules, probably because they move at a larger volume.

Great feedback all, thanks! I found the 240s for just a bit more than the inline module, figured if I ever move I'd be taking them with me anyway so wanted maximum flexibility. Just wasn't sure about the need for a functional switch (other than programming setup) now that I have that info I'm golden!

-Ben