Uplink 4500EZ install questions

[etwards]

I've decided to move forward with making my cellular communicator the primary for my Alarm Relay monitoring service. I've been up and running now for a couple of weeks and I am experiencing a lot of CO communication disruptions due to Internet downtime (3 times this past week); therefore, I feel internet communication is too unreliable at this point in time. 
 
I just received the Uplink 4500EZ in the mail and I am beginning to plan the install to be done this weekend. I would appreciate any assistance on the following questions (BTW, I'm a newbie with DIY security and have virtually no electrical/technician experience or background so I appreciate your patience with all of the basic questions  
 
1.  Location of device - My M1 control board is located in the basement of my home where all house wiring terminates (OnQ). Based on what I've read, my assumption is that the 4500EZ is best located on the first level to ensure a strong signal. I'm thinking that a bedroom closet would be an ideal location for the device. Let me know your thoughts and experiences with locating the device. 
 
2.  Basic wiring questions:
 
A.  Wiring the M1XSP to the M1. I've learned from this forum that the 4500EZ can/should be serially connected to the M1 via a Serial Port Expander (M1XSP). This requires a special cable from Uplink which I have purchased.  Also, I've read how the M1XSP is connected to the M1 via the keypad databus. I already have connected to the data bus a M1KP keypad and a wireless receiver for Honeywell transmitters (M1XRF2H). My understanding is that you can only have 2 home runs wired into the data bus. So, now that I have three devices to wire into the data bus, how would you connect the M1XSP?  Should I use standard 2 pair wire and daisy chain to another data bus device or would a Data Bus Hub for Retrofit (M1-DBHR) be better? Will either one work? If so, what are the pros/cons? If using the daisy chain method, how specifically would you wire it and where would the terminating jumpers be located? 
 
B. Options for powering the device. Given the main level location for the 4500EZ, I assume my only option is to use a separate transformer so I will need to locate near a receptacle or have a electrician wire a new receptacle... is that correct? I don't see anything mentioned anywhere about a battery backup to keep the device powered in the event of a power outage. What would I need to wire a battery backup?   
 
C. Uplink mounting options.  Should I put the 4500EZ in it's own enclosure with it's own power supply and rechargeable battery backup? ELK has a product (ELK-P983) for the Uplink 2500 but I don't see anything listed for the 4500EZ. I have an extra enclosure from an olds Brink system that also includes a rechargeable battery. Can these be re-purposed here?  Is there a power supply board that I should use? 
 
I'm sorry about all of the questions. Unfortunately, I didn't get an installation guide with the 4500EZ. In the enclosed materials with the device, they direct you to their website for the guide but I can't access it because I don't have a "dealer" signon. Also, let me know if there are other considerations or questions that I don't know about and should be asking! 
 
Finally, I've attached a picture of my planned configuration.  Please feel free to comment on anything that you see here that doesn't make sense. 
 
I appreciate any feedback.
 
Thanks!
 

 

[RAL]

1.  A bedroom closet is probably a good location for the 4500EZ; much better than putting it in the basement.
 
2A. If you ran CAT5/6 cable to your keypads and the M1XRF2H, you can easily retrofit a M1DBH, since the CAT cables have enough conductors to form a daisy chain with the DBH. Otherwise, if you only have 4 conductor cable running to them, you will need to use M1DBHR, or daisy chain the M1XSP to the keypad's bus, or the M1XRF2H's bus.
 
You could also run a second 4 conductor cable to the keypad or RF2H and form the daisy chaining back at the panel, if running that second cable happens to be easier.
 
2B/C. You will need an additional power supply for the 4500EZ, since it requires 500mA when transmitting, with possible peaks of 2A. The Elk P983 should be ok for this, or any power supply capable of meeting the power demands.   You could also consider an Elk P212S which provides a supervised connection via the databus. One thing I like about the P212S is that it does daily battery tests.  With the P983, you need to remember when it is time to replace the battery and/or test it periodically.
 
You don't necessarily need to place the power supply and the 4500EZ in the same enclosure.  You can supply power over a cable from a remote power source if you don't use a common enclosure.  Use 18/2 wire to deliver the 12V power if you go this route.  
 
Another option is to use something like an Altronix eFlow3N.
 
You can use your old Brinks enclosure if you provide a way for the antenna to stick out of the can.

 

[Del91574]

1. Location varies based on strongest cellular signal vs. cabling runs, power, proximity to panel etc.
 
A. You don't need a hub for any M1 install if you pay attention to the conductor counts needed. In your case, to avoid rewiring ANYTHING or changing the location of the terminating resistors/jumpers you'd only need 6 conductors at the XSP (or similar at the devices you're considering refeeding). Do NOT daisy chain the power.
 
B. You need a separate LV power suppy/backup battery for the 4500. Generally you want a supply that can handle an inrush of about 2A headroom for a brief second while the unit starts to transmit. If you're cutting it close to begin with, look at the specs of the Elk 983 kit. It's a 1A supply that comes with that (but it handles the overload).
 
C. The 4500 is the same size as a 2500. Personally, the 983 would be the ideal solution, but definately not the other alarm panel. Doesn't have the power output needed. The only reusable portion would be the can

 

[Linwood]

I put in a separate P212S and battery, it just bothered me that the other solutions were not testing the battery and you know only when it stops communicating (and maybe then only if AR notices and calls you, and by default they test the uplink every 30 days, or so they said.
 
I'm not sure about the 2A above, though if it's the only thing attached no matter.  For reference the specs I found say the 2500 needs 1.5A (reference http://www.uplink.com/Dealers/support/FAQ.aspx#power) and the 4500 only 0.5a (reference http://www.uplink.com/4500EZ-4G-Cellular-Communicator.aspx and download spec sheet).  
 
But this setup worked nice, and I tested all sorts of failure mode and they always showed up. 
 
Also, my experience is that AR will insist the internet be primary if you leave both it and the uplink both connected.  But I just told them "don't notify me on internet failures".  

 

[Del91574]

An Uplink 2500 draws 2.3A for miliseconds when it first transmits the cell burst. It's all in the tech documents (not spec sheets). The 1.5A would be a longer time power draw (which is clearer if you read Elk and Uplink's tech documents together it's easier to connect the dots).
 
The 4500 has been revised at least 4 times I know of since it first came out, however cellulars should always be on a supply that has plenty of headroom. A cell is not a static or linear load....it's dynamic so there's always the need for headroom on the supply.
 
I'd probably go with a different solution than a 212S personally and wire the LB and AC fail points to inputs on the panel....cheaper and easier, though you lose the ability to see voltage numbers in RP or at the KP (but I'm OK with that personally).

 

[Linwood]

An Uplink 2500 draws 2.3A for miliseconds when it first transmits the cell burst. It's all in the tech documents (not spec sheets). The 1.5A would be a longer time power draw (which is clearer if you read Elk and Uplink's tech documents together it's easier to connect the dots).
 
The 4500 has been revised at least 4 times I know of since it first came out, however cellulars should always be on a supply that has plenty of headroom. A cell is not a static or linear load....it's dynamic so there's always the need for headroom on the supply.
 
I'd probably go with a different solution than a 212S personally and wire the LB and AC fail points to inputs on the panel....cheaper and easier, though you lose the ability to see voltage numbers in RP or at the KP (but I'm OK with that personally).

 
Thanks.  as to the last sentence- because of power draw, expense, or... ?

 

[Del91574]

The 212 is a somewhat limited device....it has some perks (configurable output and supervision by the panel/smart test timing) but other than that, it's a pretty expensive device for what equates to a 2A max power supply.
 
Granted, I own 2 of them in my own house, but I've been somewhat disappointed in their overall performance.
 
By the time you price out a 212S, enclosure and the related components, that's double the price of a competitive unit that has more power output.

 

[Linwood]

By the time you price out a 212S, enclosure and the related components, that's double the price of a competitive unit that has more power output.

 
Thank you.  And I appreciate knowing about the over-draw at first.  I have found it works with the 2500, it's been rock solid for 2+ years now.
 
My goal was good integration and not having to cobble something together to get a head's up if it starts failing.  So far so good (well, I'm zero failures and zero notifications of failure, is that 100%?   :blink: )  

 

[Del91574]

It's easy enough to monitor the AC power on an aux supply with a relay...the only hard one is the LB/battery supervision, but based on what I dealt with during Sandy and the other storms up here, the 212 isn't much different than other supplies in practice. Usually the best way is routine maintenance and inspection for batteries, with replacement at the 3-4 year mark irregardless.