When Lightning Strikes

JayH

Member
I thought this group might like some “lessons being learned†from a lightning strike at my house and may be able to offer some insight to how others have addressed related issues. For all the planning that most people put in to this technology, protection for lightning is usually an afterthought. I thought I was careful but it found some things I hadn’t considered.

Friday, August 21st in Bedford, Texas around 7:13:34 lightning struck a 80’ Post Oak about 12 feet off my house, ripped most of the bark off the lower portion of the tree, went into the ground and entered my house through the gas line. It came out in the front furnace closet when it hit a 180 degree bend in the flex line starting a gas-fed fire.

Through a series of events that were 1-in-a-million, there was nobody in the house when this happened and a neighbor noticed “too much steam†coming off my roof, walked over to investigate, smelled something burning and called the fire department. The smoke/fire damage was relegated to just the furnace closet but to show up to 11 emergency vehicles and a ladder up over your house is unnerving to say the least.

The most “humerous†part, if there is one, was that while the firemen were in the house the heat detector (135) in the furnace closet tripped and scared the living daylights out of them – my father arrived before I did and they asked him to shut it off because “it is so loud we can’t talk†but it ultimately told them where the fire was. I was asked by one fireman what type of system it was because “we’ve never had one talk to us beforeâ€.

Now for the fun part: What can only be described as a “Selective Electromagnetic Pulse†went through the house leaving some things just fine while smoking others. Due to the layout of the house, there is a closet in the back with 4 “cans†in it (2 for Elk, 1 ALC, 1 Altronix), 1 ‘can’ in a front closet for ALC, Elk Expansion, Ethernet and 1 ‘can’ in the garage for sprinklers, pump, etc.

This house, over the years, has been slowly retrofitted with:
• Elk M1
o Multiple smoke/heat zones
o 30+ doors, windows, motion, temperature
o Integration to RCS TR-36 and RCS Zone controller
o Integration to UPB
o Integration to ALC
o 24 relays running sprinklers, pump, tank fill

• OnQ ALC
o 3 branches (divided on house breaks)
o ~18 switches total

• UPB
o ~7 switches (still playing with them)

• RCS T-Stats
o RCS TR-36
o RCS TS-36 x2 + Zone controller
o All tied to Ethernet via Digi One SP’s

• Altronix 12VDC 16A Power Distribution
o Multiple fuse panels, each run individually fused

• Hard wired Ethernet to most rooms

A quick walk through of what-lived, what-died and what is somewhere in between:

Commercial AC Power:
• All TV’s, DirectTV, Tivo, DVD, clocks, etc. still worked
• Fridge, near furnace closet, had the control board blown and it spewed water and ice – it was the most damage of anything to the house
• Front Furnace control boards blown (huge burn mark on back where it discharged to the metal furnace)
• 1 UPB switch killed
• 1 ALC Relay switch “welded on†and putting 18VAC out on ALC control lines. This was closest to strike and was on at the time.
• 2 ALC 4-scene switches dead (both near relay). All others still work via local control.
• Old Music & Sound Intercom
• Handful of chargers for cell phone, Bluetooth, etc.

Ethernet:
• Every Ethernet switch in the house is dead or for the high-end cisco’s (side business) any connected port is now dead.
• Except for 3 devices, if it was plugged into Ethernet then the Ethernet port is now blown (laptop, 2 desktops, Digi One SP’s, …)

Elk, ALC & UPB:
• M1 was very upset, even though the fire alarm went off, and wouldn’t communicate (serial, telephone) or reset.
• M1 Ethernet expander
• 2 Elk zone expanders & 1 Elk relay expander
• ALC HLC Controller (and the replacement because I missed the 18VAC on the control lines)
• 2 UPB switches

RCS
• T-stats were fine, both controllers died.
• Replaced everything because of the generation – Tx36 up to Tx60
• Also to note, the controllers didn’t just “die†– when power was reapplied they turned on an invalid set of relays for the unit (I had already unplugged furnaces first)

Altronix 12VDC Power system
• 2 fuses “blackened†on the path from the front furnace closet (used on RCS and Digi One) to the Rectifier/Battery panel.
• But not all of them blackened/blown in the path (???)
• Motion detectors and some other stuff just “not rightâ€
• I suspect that the RCS Zoning controller was taken out by the surge on 12VDC (no proof)

Wiring
• At this time, I have had to replace all Cat 5 and 18/2 CL2 from the front furnace closet to the T-Stat and panels because equipment wasn’t working. Voltage not passing (12VDC was showing 6VDC 30’ away) and TStat acting funny (bad data connection). All worked fine after replacing cables.
• Bundle of Cat-5 (12) from front of house to rear is “suspect†at this time but I really don’t want to replace it.

Conclusion

Based on what was taken out and where it was located, there appear to be 2 distinct paths taken through the house: (1) was from the strike and was purely a “pulse†that was picked up by cat 5 cabling for Elk, ALC and Ethernet which took the biggest hits; (2) The 12VDC pulse came in from the furnace closet (based on fuses blown).

What I have learned to date, not that I have solutions yet:
• ALC is very sensitive to surges. I’ve lost switches in the past and the HLC controller once before.
• My A/C surge protection and grounding is descent. Nothing really lost.
• Cat-5 (Ethernet, ALC, Elk) is a huge antenna that needs firm demarcation points for surge suppression
• 12VDC is susceptible if a surge has a way in. Need to look at suppression at each panel.
• My alarm is unmonitored at this time – and it wouldn’t have helped because it couldn’t send email or call me – but I need to install the outside siren just in case a neighbor isn’t in the right place.

Afterthoughts

Oddly enough, my biggest concern for lightning entering the house was from all the yard runs for sprinkler valves because they come into both the front closet and garage. For this, I wrapped all the lines coming in through a ferrite core twice to stop the “pulse†and figured the relay boards would take the rest. All of this is still in fine.

The Elk, though it managed to sound the alarm, was “dead†when I restarted it – specifically the modules in the front closet were causing comm errors and wouldn’t even show up. Not sure how they managed to set off the alarm but they did.

I was also questioned by the building inspector. Fire inspector called him because I have Brultech Energy monitors and he saw bundles of wires (wrapped in heat-shrink tubing) coming out of the panels to the devices. I wasn't neat on the outside wiring at the time. Required that I get a licensed electrician and he wanted to talk to him personally. The Fire Marshal was also not happy that after they turned off power there was a lot of stuff still running - UPS's on systems, Elk didn't shut off (it was yelling loud) and other things on the 12VDC were still live. I had to explain.

A Checklist (built on experience): Just before power was turned back on, I had to do a "mental" list of what to pull power on so it didn't come back up (elk, 12vdc, UPS's, ...) then my second list was a "partition all the systems so I can power/test each system 1 by 1" which was not as easy as I had initially thought. Second to this would be how to test each system - ALC had 18VAC on the control lines from a switch that didn't go over too well and I never considered metering the control lines...

Plug for Worthington Distribution: I called Debbie at 4pm EST on Friday to get RCS replacements so I could have A/C back up “correctly†instead of “wire jumper†– she managed to get everything I needed drop-shipped from RCS for Saturday delivery and called me back well after their closing hours to confirm I should be receiving it Saturday AM. (hefty price tag for shipping, but …)

IF YOU ARE A CONTRACTOR in the Dallas/Fort Worth Area and understand this technology, I need 2 things that Insurance will cover:
• TDR of Ethernet cabling and report to evaluate for replacement
• Review of ALC & other damage for a “written report†to state the damage is consistent with lightning. Not that they are arguing at all, but it would be nice.

Comments, questions and suggestions welcome. It will be a couple months before everything is back working again (with some upgrades) and I realize I will be seeing other things fail in the next 6 months (even Insurance told me that).

Jay
 
That's a nasty break, sorry to hear of your 'losses'. Ever since a colleague of mine was struck and killed by lightning while playing golf on a clear day without a cloud in the sky I've given lightning a whole new respect. It is absolutely crazy the things that it can do and the power it harnesses. As long as the family is safe and even the house is ok, that's whats important. It is a real PITA, but everything will get replaced and you'll be back to 'normal'. And like you said, its a good opportunity to upgrade those areas you've been meaning to. I was going to say its a good thing you have AO nearby but sounds like you are taken care of by Worthington. Hope everything works out without too much trouble. Thanks for sharing.
 
Glad to hear no one got hurt. Very useful post, thanks for sharing! I would definitely love to see pics of the Brultech install once it has been 'corrected'. You do bring up a good point of many devices still running after power has been cut, but not sure what can be changed (maybe write software which shuts machines down when a fire alarm condition has been detected?).

Oh, and you will be surprised how much more stuff will fail in the next few months, took me almost a year to find out the hard way that I had more damage than initially thought/claimed.
 
Jay,

Sorry to hear about that!

Lightening is always nipping at the back of my mind. Especially with the antennas about the house. I try to make certain that everything that goes INTO our OUT OF the network / etc. is protected...my thinking is, if it's IN the network, I'm done...but if I can keep that kind of stuff out of the house (phone / cable / power / antenna), hopefully everything else will be at least as safe as my weakest surge protector.

More a question about your situation:
I was always a bit concerned about the Energy Monitors, from the stance of what people "not" in the know would say.

I assumed that they meet whatever UL etc. codes that they need to, but if there was an electrical / building inspector, what would they say.

I'm interested in hearing what comes of that part of your drastic journey.

Thanks!

--Dan
 
When I built my house I made sure there was a heavy ground wire from the main power panel to the telephone demarcation box (also used for DSL), the water line and the gas line. The plumber questioned grounding the gas line - he thought it would be better to float and not have current in it. But my thinking is try to keep everything at the same potential - not good to have the water heater or something like that complete the circuit. BTW, I did all the wiring myself and put a fair amount of thought into this. I also used 2 ground rods connected in parallel - not code at the time but this was being talked about (may be code now). Lots of older houses have separate ground rods for the phone or TV but that is definately not code and not good for events like this. I am not sure my system could stand a nearly direct hit like this but I have been trouble free for 5 years of some nasty midwest storms.

One thing I have wondered about - my woodstove metal flue is the tallest metal thing around and we are on a hill (we do have some taller trees close by). It is just grounded through the cord for a small fan on the stove that plugs into the wall. I did think about putting a heavier wire in the attic to go over and down to the main panel but have never put that in.

Interesting idea about beads for a little extra protection on the sprinkler lines... I have some long ones so this seems like a good addition.
 
So what is the best way to ground an antenna or other equipment that is not installed near the main electrical grounding rod? I ask because I have struggled with this exact question.

It is nearly impossible to put a grounding rod below the antenna and tie that rod to the main rod. That wire would have to travel probably 100' and go around 4 90 degree turns if I went around the house.

So what is left? Tieing both rods into water pipes inside the house? What is the best option?
 
So what is the best way to ground an antenna or other equipment that is not installed near the main electrical grounding rod? I ask because I have struggled with this exact question.

[This is from rural Canada, so your kilometreage may vary]

According to the instructions for my microwave-based internet service, you should install a separate 3m (10 foot) grounding rod to give the shortest connection to ground, connecting it to the antenna grounding block with (at least) #6 bare copper wire. Then, bond the antenna grounding system and the electrical grounding system together with another #6 bare copper wire, using the appropriate split bolts, torquing them to manufacturer's specifications, in my case, 18.5 Nm (165 inch-pounds).
 
..my biggest concern for lightning entering the house was from all the yard runs for sprinkler valves... I wrapped all the lines coming in through a ferrite core twice to stop the “pulse†...

Jay,
Sorry for your troubles and thank you for sharing the details.

I'm just about to put in the wiring for my new sprinkler system and I've considered putting in a demarcation point (metal junction box) where the cabling enters the house (as opposed to a continuous, unbroken run all the way to the controller). At the junction box, I was planning to simply coil the wire to create an inductor. I've seen this technique used in telephone lines. However, your use of a ferrite core sounds like a way of achieving the same result but with less wire. Where did you get the ferrite cores?
 
The Fire Marshal was also not happy that after they turned off power there was a lot of stuff still running - UPS's on systems, Elk didn't shut off (it was yelling loud) and other things on the 12VDC were still live. I had to explain.
That is surprising to me. I would have thought a Fire Marshall would have seen computers on a UPS and a battery backed up alarm system before, either in a residential or a commercial setting. I know that at work we have EPO buttons (Emergency Power Off) mounted on the walls outside our data centers and test labs. These shut down the big UPSes (multiple 80KVA and up) that power rows of racks of equipment. But even in that environment, we still have a bunch of little 500VA-3000VA UPSes in individual racks for extra protection of some gear. And the Fire Marshals have never said anything about those UPSes or all the UPSes we have in our offices. At home, I have UPSes in multiple places. I wonder if that would really concern anybody in an emergency? I have never seen a residential size UPS with any sort of EPO switch.
 
So what is the best way to ground an antenna or other equipment that is not installed near the main electrical grounding rod? I ask because I have struggled with this exact question.

[This is from rural Canada, so your kilometreage may vary]

According to the instructions for my microwave-based internet service, you should install a separate 3m (10 foot) grounding rod to give the shortest connection to ground, connecting it to the antenna grounding block with (at least) #6 bare copper wire. Then, bond the antenna grounding system and the electrical grounding system together with another #6 bare copper wire, using the appropriate split bolts, torquing them to manufacturer's specifications, in my case, 18.5 Nm (165 inch-pounds).

I have seen them connected to existing wiring grounds such as the disconnect box for the outdoor unit for an air conditioner. That seems like a reasonably good way to go. I think that meets US code as long as the ground conductors are sufficient size. If an additional ground rod is used it must be connected to the main ground rod (and there are specifics of how the wires run and the size that I don't have handy). The real problem is using another ground rod and not connecting it to the main rod. During a close hit the voltage on one side of the house can be quite a bit different than the other side. If your satelite TV antenna is grounded through a different rod than your power you will get a LOT of current flowing through your satelite receiver box and other equipment.

At work we routinely test our circuit designs to industry standards for surge withstand. For residential equipment a fairly common standard is 6000 V/3000 A (open circuit voltage/short circuit current) for about 25 uS (0.000025 Seconds) (lots of details about rise and fall times that I won't go into...) This verifies protection for most cases but with very close strikes you could have MUCH more than that.
 
So what is the best way to ground an antenna or other equipment that is not installed near the main electrical grounding rod? I ask because I have struggled with this exact question.

[This is from rural Canada, so your kilometreage may vary]

According to the instructions for my microwave-based internet service, you should install a separate 3m (10 foot) grounding rod to give the shortest connection to ground, connecting it to the antenna grounding block with (at least) #6 bare copper wire. Then, bond the antenna grounding system and the electrical grounding system together with another #6 bare copper wire, using the appropriate split bolts, torquing them to manufacturer's specifications, in my case, 18.5 Nm (165 inch-pounds).

I have seen them connected to existing wiring grounds such as the disconnect box for the outdoor unit for an air conditioner. That seems like a reasonably good way to go. I think that meets US code as long as the ground conductors are sufficient size. If an additional ground rod is used it must be connected to the main ground rod (and there are specifics of how the wires run and the size that I don't have handy). The real problem is using another ground rod and not connecting it to the main rod. During a close hit the voltage on one side of the house can be quite a bit different than the other side. If your satelite TV antenna is grounded through a different rod than your power you will get a LOT of current flowing through your satelite receiver box and other equipment.

The outside HVAC unit is right next to my antenna, so tieing into that ground should be easy. In fact, I'm sure that would be the easiest thing to do.

Any other suggestions? Grounding and lightning protection seems to be extremely hard in reality.
 
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