My electrician suggested that I add some breaker type surge protectors to my panels, and I wanted to make sure that they will not mess with my Insteon signals. I have about 50 Insteon devices in my home. Assuming they are compatible, do you guys think this type of surge suppressor is good, or is there a different type of whole home solution that you would recommend?
Whole house surge protection and Inteon compatibility?
- Thread starter Loraquest
- Start date
Neurorad
Senior Member
These types of units are probably slightly better for protection
Eaton Cutler Hammer will release new models very soon - I think the model that you would use is the CHSPT2ULTRA, if you want to go with Eaton. Google CHSPT2ULTRA to find the Eaton Nov 2010 product catalog.
These mount on the exterior of the breaker box, using the shortest leads possible (6"), without any sharp bends in the leads. So if your box is recessed, may be a little tricky.
CT Member Steve detailed the DIY install of his Total Protection Solutions whole-house SPD here, and discussed his decision here. Discussed his decision of breaker-based vs. external.
I don't know if the extra expense and effort is worth the slight extra protection. Maybe Steve will chime in.
Eaton Cutler Hammer will release new models very soon - I think the model that you would use is the CHSPT2ULTRA, if you want to go with Eaton. Google CHSPT2ULTRA to find the Eaton Nov 2010 product catalog.
These mount on the exterior of the breaker box, using the shortest leads possible (6"), without any sharp bends in the leads. So if your box is recessed, may be a little tricky.
CT Member Steve detailed the DIY install of his Total Protection Solutions whole-house SPD here, and discussed his decision here. Discussed his decision of breaker-based vs. external.
I don't know if the extra expense and effort is worth the slight extra protection. Maybe Steve will chime in.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
I have about 60 Insteon devices and the leviton surge supressor mounted into the wall directly below my panel. It doesn't cause any problems as far as I can tell. I have no idea if it will actually be of any benefit either!
Steve
Senior Member
If you look at the links Neurorad posted of my install you will see how I recessed the SPD against my recessed breaker panel. Key is keeping the wires SHORT.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
Here is the simple way to mount the surge suppressor in the wall.
http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Plumbing-Accessories/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbql8/R-100679023/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Plumbing-Accessories/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbql8/R-100679023/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
apostolakisl
Senior Member
becuase he said his electric box was mounted in the wall, and the surge supressor he spec'd is designed to attach to the side of the panel. So, you either leave a rough cut hole in the wall, do some kind of conduit twist around and out through a hole in the wall, or install one of those boxes. You could leave the door off and just use it as a frame in the drywall if you want or cut a small window in it that lines up with the led's if they are important to the operation of this unit.
If you get the Leviton one then this isn't an issue since it is designed to mount into the wall next to the panel the same as the panel itself.
If you get the Leviton one then this isn't an issue since it is designed to mount into the wall next to the panel the same as the panel itself.
Neurorad
Senior Member
Eaton Cutler Hammer also sells a flush mount wall plate, for the residential SPDs.
Page 6 of the Nov 2010 Eaton residential catalog.
http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:dHPmOLWNA0AJ:www.eaton.com/Electrical/USA/Support/Documentation/Catalogs/idcplg%3FIdcService%3DGET_FILE%26RevisionSelectionMethod%3DLatestReleased%26Rendition%3DPrimary%26dDocName%3DTB00400001E+chspt2ultra&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESh1m9Pmpy1VkBMnEVbl7xieS5RNAJIyj84y46IpalIBMlEjWPXccJMa0AqFau_I_6Azjv79oeDGjTR64Wd85H6w_l1AYE7Oy-G3KHmwQRkqgvLEBsoyqI-lGSJnnWaNMkI1lP45&sig=AHIEtbRwjesybMFWvJxdbqsF2LeDsWwzOQ
Page 6 of the Nov 2010 Eaton residential catalog.
http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:dHPmOLWNA0AJ:www.eaton.com/Electrical/USA/Support/Documentation/Catalogs/idcplg%3FIdcService%3DGET_FILE%26RevisionSelectionMethod%3DLatestReleased%26Rendition%3DPrimary%26dDocName%3DTB00400001E+chspt2ultra&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESh1m9Pmpy1VkBMnEVbl7xieS5RNAJIyj84y46IpalIBMlEjWPXccJMa0AqFau_I_6Azjv79oeDGjTR64Wd85H6w_l1AYE7Oy-G3KHmwQRkqgvLEBsoyqI-lGSJnnWaNMkI1lP45&sig=AHIEtbRwjesybMFWvJxdbqsF2LeDsWwzOQ
Neurorad
Senior Member
LouApo, I don't think that access panel would be good for a garage. Inspector/AHJ may want it replaced when you move. Garage drywall access panels are supposed to have some kind of fire rating, similar to the drywall. I don't recall the time, supposed to be 1, 1.5, or 2 hours on the fire rating.
The fire rated access panels are priced pretty steeply. They're available readily at local drywall distributors. I have to find one for my garage ceiling, on my list of things to do.
The fire rated access panels are priced pretty steeply. They're available readily at local drywall distributors. I have to find one for my garage ceiling, on my list of things to do.
Thanks for the feedback, guys! My electrician just emailed me and suggested that I purchase two of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-51120-1-Protection-Commercial-Residential/dp/B00081K55Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1294980120&sr=8-1
What do you think? Is this a good product?
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-51120-1-Protection-Commercial-Residential/dp/B00081K55Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1294980120&sr=8-1
What do you think? Is this a good product?
apostolakisl
Senior Member
That is exactly what I have.
It is easy to hookup. I connected mine in about 30 minutes. I put it below the panel since there are studs on the left/right side and the top side has a massive bundle of wires in the way.
Good point, the location of the panel we are discussing here hasn't been mentioned. I have an electric panel in the garage, but I have the leviton model which is flush mounted in the wall just like the primary panel. I do beleive that the fire code issue only applies to garage walls/ceilings shared with the rest of the house as, so if it is an outside wall I think it doesn't matter.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
In truth, I don't fully understand how these things work.
My best understanding is that they divert surplus power to ground. My understanding of electricity would indicate that since this is wired in parallel with the house, that the diversion of juice would be proportional to the resistance and therefore essentially impossible to divert all of it to ground. To me that means that these only protect you in the event of a relatively modest voltage spike. In the event that the unit shunts those massive joule numbers they spec to ground that you would still get a bunch going to the house, just not as much, meaning that your stuff would just softly fry instead of exploding.
I guess most voltage spikes are modest and very transient so perhaps this setup eliminates 99% of the problem.
The Leviton model wires to two 20 amp breakers so any shunt to ground in excess of 20 amps would pop the fuse and take the Leviton out of the loop. Again, I guess it goes to the fact that spikes are over faster than a breaker can pop.
I do understand that they are self sacrificing, so it only protects you one time. Hence the need for the led to tell you it is dead.
In short, I am not 100% convinced that these things really work. But, for $180 I figured I would go ahead and take it on faith.
My best understanding is that they divert surplus power to ground. My understanding of electricity would indicate that since this is wired in parallel with the house, that the diversion of juice would be proportional to the resistance and therefore essentially impossible to divert all of it to ground. To me that means that these only protect you in the event of a relatively modest voltage spike. In the event that the unit shunts those massive joule numbers they spec to ground that you would still get a bunch going to the house, just not as much, meaning that your stuff would just softly fry instead of exploding.
I guess most voltage spikes are modest and very transient so perhaps this setup eliminates 99% of the problem.
The Leviton model wires to two 20 amp breakers so any shunt to ground in excess of 20 amps would pop the fuse and take the Leviton out of the loop. Again, I guess it goes to the fact that spikes are over faster than a breaker can pop.
I do understand that they are self sacrificing, so it only protects you one time. Hence the need for the led to tell you it is dead.
In short, I am not 100% convinced that these things really work. But, for $180 I figured I would go ahead and take it on faith.
