Window/Door contacts for ELK M1
- Thread starter glitchen
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tmbrown97
Senior Member
I can't recall the favorite brands off hand, but I would definitely do a search and see what comes up - DELInstallations has some specific ones he recommends, and if you find those threads, you'll likely see a few others that've chimed in.
I wouldn't go cheap on contacts - they're such a pain to maintain that hopefully whatever you put in when the house is built will last as long as you live there. Better quality ones will hold up better. Also, the pros often recommend the ones that have mini screw terminals rather than wire leads that'll get buried in the wall - makes it easier to use an EOLR resistor if needed.
That's for doors mostly - for windows, it's not so easy. Most of the time a hidden window contact requires drilling the window and automatically voiding the warranty. Apparently Anderson (IIRC) had some available to be ordered with the contacts in them. If you want to preserve warranties, you'll end up with surface mount. The smallest I'm aware of is the Tane Pill but I think it has leads; otherwise you're looking for a little surface mount one - and if you don't mind it being a little larger, perhaps one that'll accept screw terminals and have room for an EOLR resistor inside the casing.
I wouldn't go cheap on contacts - they're such a pain to maintain that hopefully whatever you put in when the house is built will last as long as you live there. Better quality ones will hold up better. Also, the pros often recommend the ones that have mini screw terminals rather than wire leads that'll get buried in the wall - makes it easier to use an EOLR resistor if needed.
That's for doors mostly - for windows, it's not so easy. Most of the time a hidden window contact requires drilling the window and automatically voiding the warranty. Apparently Anderson (IIRC) had some available to be ordered with the contacts in them. If you want to preserve warranties, you'll end up with surface mount. The smallest I'm aware of is the Tane Pill but I think it has leads; otherwise you're looking for a little surface mount one - and if you don't mind it being a little larger, perhaps one that'll accept screw terminals and have room for an EOLR resistor inside the casing.
I thought about the tane pill, I like how small it is and I wouldn't void my window warranty. If I was going to do recessed I would go through the bottom but it looks like there is a drain and I kinda don't want to drill through it.
How would you do the middle window? I don't think there is a good way to run wire.....
How would you do the middle window? I don't think there is a good way to run wire.....
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ddennerline
Active Member
For double-hung windows shown in picture, using wireless sensors would probably be the best solution. Wiring the top of the sashes will be difficult with solid headers. A wireless sensor can provide coverage for both top and bottom sashes.
Is there some trick for wiring the top sash of three windows given the picture?
Is there some trick for wiring the top sash of three windows given the picture?
tmbrown97
Senior Member
A channel in the trim work? That's my best thought. You don't want to drill the bottom - stick with the sides so you don't void warranties and do it in a way the trim guy can work around - a simple small channel in the trim done with a dado blade just might be the best way. Even with surface mount, you'll probably need to have it in the trim a little bit.
To do the center window without drilling it , some level of wiring would typically need to be shown or the surface contact installed horizontally on the bottom/top sash. As far as getting wiring to the window, 99% of the time there's plenty of space to get wiring around the rough framing to get to the window sash itself. Usually there's some sort of trim to the extrusion as well, most sashes aren't built as a single unit.
As far as contacts, I tend to stay with Honeywell PAL-T's for surface. Not as small as others, however plenty of room for an EOLR and they have multiple wire entries and a trim cap. The PILL's have visible screws and terminal entries, so IMHO, they don't look as clean, just smaller. For recessed, I like the 944T's (diameter and magnets depending on install) and 955PST's for plungers.
I have also used GRI, Sentrol/GE, FLAIR and C+K (now Honeywell) for years. We used to use Tane for special applications, and we used somewhere around 15-20K of their reeds over 3 years. They were halfway decent, but we ended up getting more bad ones than what I'd consider acceptable, even though the percentages were very low.
As far as contacts, I tend to stay with Honeywell PAL-T's for surface. Not as small as others, however plenty of room for an EOLR and they have multiple wire entries and a trim cap. The PILL's have visible screws and terminal entries, so IMHO, they don't look as clean, just smaller. For recessed, I like the 944T's (diameter and magnets depending on install) and 955PST's for plungers.
I have also used GRI, Sentrol/GE, FLAIR and C+K (now Honeywell) for years. We used to use Tane for special applications, and we used somewhere around 15-20K of their reeds over 3 years. They were halfway decent, but we ended up getting more bad ones than what I'd consider acceptable, even though the percentages were very low.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
wuench
Senior Member
It's not the magnet that is the problem, if a window has vents (as mentioned) then you can't mount the sensor without drilling through the vent channel.
As far as the Tane Pills, I was able to hide the wires and hole in the caulk around the edge, they do have exposed screws, but I decided I would rather have screw terminals than trying to work with leads and drilling a bigger hole necessary for the crimp connections. I mounted them on the side of the window, for the bottom the gap might be too large for them to work.
As far as the Tane Pills, I was able to hide the wires and hole in the caulk around the edge, they do have exposed screws, but I decided I would rather have screw terminals than trying to work with leads and drilling a bigger hole necessary for the crimp connections. I mounted them on the side of the window, for the bottom the gap might be too large for them to work.
I guess I lucked out since all of my windows are trimmed out making it real easy to get to them and run wire where ever I like. With that said, I went with the Tane Pills with leads since I didn't need a hole any bigger than the wire itself and they look the cleanest. If I had to do it over I'd probably look to hide the contacts in the track.
Downside of using contacts with leads, unless the leads are long enough to make it to an unfinished spot (some are 5-8' long) splicing is necessary, so either a 3/8" hole for chicklets or solder/tape or shrink is needed to get through a 1/4 or 3/16" hole. If you're doing true EOLR's, then you have that to contend with, as well as making sure they're still accessable.
Many times I've seen well intentioned DIY'ers and some pros bury EOLR's in inaccessable junctions, walls, or other locations.
Many times I've seen well intentioned DIY'ers and some pros bury EOLR's in inaccessable junctions, walls, or other locations.
Ranger Digital
Active Member
we use 100% tane pills. Customers LOVE the size and they couldnt be easier to install. We have them in all the colors, end wire and mid wire placement as well as screw type when we need to work with those tiny ass screws. hate those but sometimes you need them. We stick wireed part on windows pre drwall then come back and add counter part later. All tested pre drywall of course! They are easy to hide on middle windows as well, typically under the pull the handle on window.
NEVER drill through windows. Thats our company policy REGARDLESS if customer wants drilling or not. We WONT do it. Period.
Remember, the customer is NOT allways right. Shoot that author, lol.
NEVER drill through windows. Thats our company policy REGARDLESS if customer wants drilling or not. We WONT do it. Period.
Remember, the customer is NOT allways right. Shoot that author, lol.
I had to drill through my windows even with Tane pills, but thats because I wanted to hide everything behind the frame of the screen (casement windows, so the screen is on the interior side of the window).
Luckily its a hole just big enough for a 22/2 wire to get thru, so about 1/8", and its drilled completely interior to the sealing portion(s) of the window so there will never be a leak. It hurt me a little to be drilling into my expensive windows, but I had no choice. Had I done alarm screens I could have avoided drilling the window frame but would have spent a pretty penny (12 casement windows, 60.00 per screen)
Luckily its a hole just big enough for a 22/2 wire to get thru, so about 1/8", and its drilled completely interior to the sealing portion(s) of the window so there will never be a leak. It hurt me a little to be drilling into my expensive windows, but I had no choice. Had I done alarm screens I could have avoided drilling the window frame but would have spent a pretty penny (12 casement windows, 60.00 per screen)
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