Woodworking thread
- Thread starter royalj7
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The Pod
Active Member
He's about 5'4" - currently working on two twice the size.... 10'-11' tall!
didn't count the pieces. Guessing about 100.
took about 40 hrs to complete. The joints are posable which took more time to figure out.
mdesmarais
Active Member
Cool. You have your work "cut out" :hesaid: for you to make it by Halloween!
mdesmarais
Active Member
Awesome! Now add some actuators and they can rampage all over the neighborhood! Or you can make them take the garbage out. ;-)
beelzerob
Senior Member
So...I've had the frame clamp now sitting in the box it was delivered in, by the front door, for...oh...about 4 months now. We've decided to make "frames" one of our Christmas vacation projects.
The concensus here seems to be that a table saw is a better tool for cutting the mitres of the frame sides than a mitre saw. As it turns out, we don't have either kind of saw...but I can borrow a table saw.
However, that pre-supposes having a jig or sled, correct? Is that the first step, to creat a sled with a 45 deg angle on it for cutting?
The concensus here seems to be that a table saw is a better tool for cutting the mitres of the frame sides than a mitre saw. As it turns out, we don't have either kind of saw...but I can borrow a table saw.
However, that pre-supposes having a jig or sled, correct? Is that the first step, to creat a sled with a 45 deg angle on it for cutting?
mdesmarais
Active Member
Yep. There is one here http://fliiby.com/file/64945/dfpquif224.html (ignore the garbage at the top and scroll down) for cutting miters.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/dep...sscut-sled.aspx is good detail steps for building the sled part.
And actually its a 90 degree angle- that is the secret!
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/dep...sscut-sled.aspx is good detail steps for building the sled part.
And actually its a 90 degree angle- that is the secret!
Table saw better than a mitre saw for mitre cuts???
Nah....don't think so....
But, if you will be using a table saw...best to make a gauge.
pete_c
Guru
New project advice needed.
I am not a carpenter nor a plumber and am looking for advice.
I am redoing a work area in the garage. To date I have done the following:
1 - put up three kitchen cabinets - painted them prior to hanging them. These three cabinets are about 5 feet total across.
2 - put LED 120VAC lighing under cabinets
3 - added power (120VAC via conduits to new outlets)
4 - water - brought water out to the area (hot, cold, drain) from the basement and put shutoffs for water in the basement. Easy to sweat 1/2" copper piping but difficult to work with in tight areas.
5 - purchased a "restaurant style" small slop sink (stainless steel)
6 - purchased a 4' kitchen counter.
7 - installed and in the same area is my sprinkler system box, touchscreen and network combo AP wall plate. Area is automated. I like to work on my cars and typically use wireless but also connect the CarPC's to the house LAN or WLAN when I don't want to remove them from the vehicles.
I am at the installation of the kitchen counter part of the project. I have cut the kitchen counter backsplash off making the depth of the counter about 22" or so. I did a cutout for the sink in the counter yesterday. The slop sink backsplash sits against the wall. The counter top is a typical kitchen counter and weighs a few pounds.
I am looking to install the countertop (4' wide X 22" deep) against the wall. To date I put in a .5" X 2" strip of wood to serve as a back ledge for the countertop. I want to put shelves under the countertop but do not want these shelves to support counter. I need to figure out how to support the front part of the countertop minimally without a large footprint. I would prefer only two "legs" to support this structure from the front. I purchased 1"x1" pieces of Oak hoping that I could support this countertop in this manner but I don't know if it will work. I am also adding a small refrigerator (4' high and maybe 2' feet wide). The refrigerator dimensions are 18" wide, 24" deep, 33.5" high. Too big - so will put it adjacent to shelf. Now also thinking of using Tennesco workbench legs (already use them on another workbench in the garage) modified a bit.
I am not a carpenter and would like advice as to the best way to proceed.
Thanks in advance .....will take pictures...
I am not a carpenter nor a plumber and am looking for advice.
I am redoing a work area in the garage. To date I have done the following:
1 - put up three kitchen cabinets - painted them prior to hanging them. These three cabinets are about 5 feet total across.
2 - put LED 120VAC lighing under cabinets
3 - added power (120VAC via conduits to new outlets)
4 - water - brought water out to the area (hot, cold, drain) from the basement and put shutoffs for water in the basement. Easy to sweat 1/2" copper piping but difficult to work with in tight areas.
5 - purchased a "restaurant style" small slop sink (stainless steel)
6 - purchased a 4' kitchen counter.
7 - installed and in the same area is my sprinkler system box, touchscreen and network combo AP wall plate. Area is automated. I like to work on my cars and typically use wireless but also connect the CarPC's to the house LAN or WLAN when I don't want to remove them from the vehicles.
I am at the installation of the kitchen counter part of the project. I have cut the kitchen counter backsplash off making the depth of the counter about 22" or so. I did a cutout for the sink in the counter yesterday. The slop sink backsplash sits against the wall. The counter top is a typical kitchen counter and weighs a few pounds.
I am looking to install the countertop (4' wide X 22" deep) against the wall. To date I put in a .5" X 2" strip of wood to serve as a back ledge for the countertop. I want to put shelves under the countertop but do not want these shelves to support counter. I need to figure out how to support the front part of the countertop minimally without a large footprint. I would prefer only two "legs" to support this structure from the front. I purchased 1"x1" pieces of Oak hoping that I could support this countertop in this manner but I don't know if it will work. I am also adding a small refrigerator (4' high and maybe 2' feet wide). The refrigerator dimensions are 18" wide, 24" deep, 33.5" high. Too big - so will put it adjacent to shelf. Now also thinking of using Tennesco workbench legs (already use them on another workbench in the garage) modified a bit.
I am not a carpenter and would like advice as to the best way to proceed.
Thanks in advance .....will take pictures...
This depends on how much weight you intend to put on the countertop. If it were mine, I would include a frame under the counter to add rigidity. I don't think I would rely entirely on the stiffness of the counter surface to span the 4' across and nearly 2' depth. As for support, I have had good luck with a couple of options. One, simply use plywood on the two sides, leaving the front completely open. Second, cantilever out from the wall, with a diagonal brace between the wall and front of cabinet. Personally, I prefer the first option.
Legs would work as well, but I would be concerned about accidentally kicking them out, unless they were secured to the floor or heavily braced at the counter. When one includes the bracking, this seems like the most time-consuming approach of the three.
I don't think so, either. A good miter saw produces very nice angles.
Table saw better than a mitre saw for mitre cuts???
Nah....don't think so....
But, if you will be using a table saw...best to make a gauge.
mdesmarais
Active Member
I don't think so, either. A good miter saw produces very nice angles.
Table saw better than a mitre saw for mitre cuts???
Nah....don't think so....
But, if you will be using a table saw...best to make a gauge.
The problem with picture framing with a miter saw is that the error adds up, especially since you usually need the flip the saw to cut half the joints. You end up making 8 cuts with a moving tool, even if it has stops. Hard to get all four joints tight, especially with a wide frame in a hard wood.
With a table saw you effectively cut both sides of the joint at the same time. As long as your jig is at 90 degrees (which is fixed once you build it, never moves) then the corners will be tight.
