That makes sense, didn't think of it that way!
Dryer buzzer automation?
- Thread starter swaggy
- Start date
That makes sense, didn't think of it that way!
I have an SA UMI-32 which I guess is very similar to the CM-01 so that thought had crossed my mind.
Thanks for all the great tips everyone, I think I have enough to start hacking away. I will report back when I have something working.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
Actually, I just realized I made a big mistake. You don't coil the wire around the other, you run them parallel. I got my induced magnetic field and induced current concepts mixed up. But you still have to get some space between the two legs of the 220 wires. In other words, one of the two hot wires going to the dryer needs to be a few inches away from the other, then run your signal wire tightly against the dryer wire and parallel.
I also realized that a dryer is going to flip the heating element on and off which alter the induction strength, so you would probably need to use cai's analog input to have more range.
But I kind of doubt you are going to do this anyway.
I did it a long time ago myself (like in high school) but obviously not with a cai (high school was a long time ago.)kevkmartin
Member
I use a current sensor around the power wire to the dryer drum motor.
When he motor stops, it triggers the automation system to alert e that the laundry s complete.
When he motor stops, it triggers the automation system to alert e that the laundry s complete.
Sure. It was easy. I purchased two Veris Industries Hawkeye current sensors which are placed over the hot wire of the power cords. I did use a knife to split the washer and dryer power cord. Then I connected each of these to an ELK 960 timer, then to a UPB I/O module. You have to play around a bit with the timings and settings to correctly detect the end of the cycle. Most electric dryers cycle on and off quickly so the timer smooths that over. You may not be able to detect the exact cycle end but you can get within 5 minutes.gasbie said:
Oh, and I should add this is for an electric dryer. If your is gas, your on your own.
Washer/Dryer 2009 Whirlpool Duet set.
Current sensor switch on one leg of the 220 for the dryer. Trial and error to find the one leg that always shows current when unit is running. Output of sensor goes to an Input on Elk M1G. Then on to higher level logic on HomeSeer HA setup.
For washer I get reliable sensing with a Aeon zwave appliance module. It reports power usage specs on attached 120 load from washer. Again higher level logic is done in Homeseer. Do announcements when washer power drops below 1 watt. Works good.
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Current sensor switch on one leg of the 220 for the dryer. Trial and error to find the one leg that always shows current when unit is running. Output of sensor goes to an Input on Elk M1G. Then on to higher level logic on HomeSeer HA setup.
For washer I get reliable sensing with a Aeon zwave appliance module. It reports power usage specs on attached 120 load from washer. Again higher level logic is done in Homeseer. Do announcements when washer power drops below 1 watt. Works good.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
ano said:
With a gas dryer, you should be able to sense when the motor is running. The Hawkeye H800 can sense a load of as little as 0.25A, which should be low enough to detect whether the motor is running. Even with an electric dryer, the motor is probably a better indicator of when the cycle is complete vs whether the heating coils are drawing power.
ano said:
Yes, I understand that you are just measuring current. But from your earlier post, I got the impression that you needed the timer because you were detecting just the higher current draw of the heating coils, which may not be on 100% of the time. If the current switch has a low enough trip point so that it can detect just the motor, I wonder if you need the timer at all. Or maybe I misunderstood why you need the timer.
elvisimprsntr
Active Member
I wonder what a homeowners insurance company would say if it was determined your Rube Goldberg contraption was the cause of a fire which burned down a home, or worse yet caused personal injury/loss of life. My guess is they would claim homeowner negligence to avoid paying claims. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
http://www.ehow.com/list_6143568_reasons-company-deny-house-fire.html
http://www.ehow.com/list_6143568_reasons-company-deny-house-fire.html
Code:
Unpermitted Work
If a fire is deemed to be caused by electrical issues in a home where the electrical work was not permitted by the county in which the home is located, the insurance company can deny a claim. For example, if you bought a home with a finished basement, but later found out the previous owner did the work himself, and did not get permits or inspections, this may be a reason for denying a claim if it can be proven that the fire was started as a result of faulty basement wiring.Every device is different, so you can't make a characterization that one brand or cycle or type does this and another does that. Mine goes through cycles where the power level is VERY low and it is not off. If you are currently doing it without a timer, and it works for you, don't worry about it. Mine requires one, as I don't want to do this processing in the panel and I use UPB for communications.RAL said:
If you don't have experience with electronics and don't know the electrical codes, please hire someone else to do this for you that knows the codes and can follow them. You are working with high voltages. All modifications MUST comply with all electric codes. So yes, and insurance company can and will use that as an an out if you don't do it correctly.elvisimprsntr said:
