Elk M1 Output 2 Speaker Testing

[steerage250]

How do I test Output 2 on my M1Gold when it is configured for a speaker? (without putting the whole system into alarm)  Turning the output on and off does nothing.
 
thanks
 
Ian

 

[RAL]

You could write a rule to chip the siren when a function key is pressed.
 
e.g.
 
WHENEVER  F1 KEY ON ANY KEYPAD ACTIVATES
    THEN CHIRP THE OUTSIDE SIREN 1 TIME

 

[steerage250]

works a treat
 
thanks RAL

 

[mikefamig]

You could write a rule to chip the siren when a function key is pressed.
 
e.g.
 
WHENEVER  F1 KEY ON ANY KEYPAD ACTIVATES
    THEN CHIRP THE OUTSIDE SIREN 1 TIME

Very nice idea, thanks!

 

[video321]

I use a siren chirp whenever I arm away with my keyfob, but a zone is violated. The garage door won't close on my way out and the chirp gives me the reason why.

 

[Azcrum]

This is not working for me!
 
I'm using output 2 as siren and have the following rule:
 
WHENEVER F4 KEY ON ANY KEYPAD ACTIVATES
         THEN CHIRP THE OUTSIDE SIREN 3 TIME
 
The siren is the Elk-150K. Had a terrible time with the Humming of the siren, then I found a post that suggested doubling up on resistors. putting 3 resistors finally stopped the humming entirely.
 
My problem is that the system seems to go into alarm when I activate F4. Output 1 starts screaming. I've got the ELK-73 on output 1.
 
Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[RAL]

Have you done a current draw estimate on the M1 so you know how much power you are drawing from the panel?  The 150 siren draws 1.2A (which is actually greater than the 1.0A spec for Output 2).   If you have too high a load on the M1's power supply, when you activate the siren, it could drop the panel's voltage low enough that it does strange things.
 
If you haven't done an estimate, you can download a spreadsheet here.

 

[Azcrum]

Thank you very much for that insight.
wouldn't be nice if ElkRP had the power estimate build in!
From what I can figure, the spreadsheet says: total current draw 1.489
I do have the elk-P624. I can put that to use if it would be the solution...
Thanks again for your help

 

[RAL]

Does the 1.489A include the 1.2A of the 150RT?  Normally, you wouldn't include that in the current draw spreadsheet.  It's meant to total up all the other devices that are powered from VAUX, SAUX and the Databus (e.g. keypads and input/output expanders). 
 
If that does not include the 150RT current, then I understand why could be having problems.
 
One suggestion.   You may be happier using a speaker outdoors connected to Output 2 rather than a siren.  With a speaker, the sound will be synchronized with the siren sound from interior speakers connected to Output 1.  If you use the 150RT, it's sound won't be synchronized, which can be annoying. 
 
You can convert the 150RT to be a speaker my opening it up and removing the siren driver.

 

[Azcrum]

Thank you again for taking the time to respond.
 
Presently, I'm trying to understand what a "millimiser" is by revisiting my electrical engineering courses (plus Google of course). Love to know how to set up that circuit regardless...
 
So the 1.489A is actually 1.689A comes from (1) M1G @ (3) keypads  (3) M1XIN , 1 M1XRFTW, (1) M1XEP @ 0.3, (1) ELK-SL1 , (1) ELK 73. Not including the 150RT.
I can use my Elk-624 power supply for the Strob light (ELK-SL1). it is currently on the VAUX.
 
So the 150RT is just one mass of a black speaker looking thing. The driver must be within the black speaker mass then. Any details on mods to the 1510RT would be appreciated.
 
I really do not care about synching audio as I believe the unsync'd announcement indoors, from the Elk73, and the loud horn outdoors mixed in, causes a good deal of hysteria.
 
For now, I just wanted to get a Chirp out of the 150RT with an Fkey (have a rule setup),
 
Thanks again

 

[RAL]

Thank you again for taking the time to respond.
 
Presently, I'm trying to understand what a "millimiser" is by revisiting my electrical engineering courses (plus Google of course). Love to know how to set up that circuit regardless...
 
So the 1.489A is actually 1.689A comes from (1) M1G @ (3) keypads  (3) M1XIN , 1 M1XRFTW, (1) M1XEP @ 0.3, (1) ELK-SL1 , (1) ELK 73. Not including the 150RT.
I can use my Elk-624 power supply for the Strob light (ELK-SL1). it is currently on the VAUX.
 
So the 150RT is just one mass of a black speaker looking thing. The driver must be within the black speaker mass then. Any details on mods to the 1510RT would be appreciated.
 
I really do not care about synching audio as I believe the unsync'd announcement indoors, from the Elk73, and the loud horn outdoors mixed in, causes a good deal of hysteria.
 
For now, I just wanted to get a Chirp out of the 150RT with an Fkey (have a rule setup),
 
Thanks again

 
Millimiser is a made-up term for a selectable feature of the siren.  You won't find it in any EE books.  It's just a way to select reduced power output of the siren, which reduces the current drawn from the system in exchange for reduced volume from the siren. 
 
If you move the M1XEP and SL1 to the aux power supply, that will help lighten the load on the M1.  But you'll still be near the 1A limit of the M1's power supply.  So I'd probably move a couple of other devices as well, such as the M1XINs. 
 
The siren driver is internal to the black speaker block of the 150RT.  Unless the design has changed, there are 4 screws that hold the front and back of the block together.

 

[Azcrum]

Nice.
the pieces of the puzzle are coming together.
 
Cheers!