drozwood90
Senior Member
Dan, that's awesome...you'll have to let me know how well that model works out.
--Dan
Help me find a good & affordable generator transfer switch
- Thread starter electron
- Start date
Dan, that's awesome...you'll have to let me know how well that model works out.
--Dan
Steve
Senior Member
It's an older Briggs/Generac 5500W. I really only used it once for like 3 days during Hurricane Wilma. Did not run AC or anything like that. We had the fridge on it all the time, some fans, lights, tv and a toaster oven occasionally.
Here is a power calculator to help with sizing if anyone needs it.
http://www.askmikeb.com/power.htm
http://www.askmikeb.com/power.htm
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
HI gents,
Considering the rough-in wiring is going into my house starting next week and we've recently had several power outages. (short ones though, but it's a sign, plus Connecticuts power infrastructure is terribly aged) this whole topic is extremely interesting.
Since the house is already over budget i don't want spend a bunch, but woud like to preserve some options.
My setup consists of a main 200A service into a 40 circuit panel and a 20 cricuit subpanel right next to it.
I don't think i need ATS and want to keep it simply. These interlock kits seems simply and cheap. I suspect I would need to tell my electricial to keep the top right 2 slots of the main panel open so that he can come back at a later time to install a 2 pole breaker, interlock kits and run a cricuit to the outside for the generator to plug into.
How many slots and where do they need to be kept open? From the pics it would seem the first 2 slots below and to the right of the main breaker, but some pics show something on the left as well.
THey had orginally planned on a single 40 circuit panel, but said it would be full when they were done and i want to finish to basement and bonus room myself later and also will run addiitonal ciccuits myself for some outlets in my automation wiring room. So we added the 20 circuit subpanel. It shoudl be easy enough for them to move a few circuit into that panel and say leave the top 2 on each side in the main panel open.
Any suggestions?
Considering the rough-in wiring is going into my house starting next week and we've recently had several power outages. (short ones though, but it's a sign, plus Connecticuts power infrastructure is terribly aged) this whole topic is extremely interesting.
Since the house is already over budget i don't want spend a bunch, but woud like to preserve some options.
My setup consists of a main 200A service into a 40 circuit panel and a 20 cricuit subpanel right next to it.
I don't think i need ATS and want to keep it simply. These interlock kits seems simply and cheap. I suspect I would need to tell my electricial to keep the top right 2 slots of the main panel open so that he can come back at a later time to install a 2 pole breaker, interlock kits and run a cricuit to the outside for the generator to plug into.
How many slots and where do they need to be kept open? From the pics it would seem the first 2 slots below and to the right of the main breaker, but some pics show something on the left as well.
THey had orginally planned on a single 40 circuit panel, but said it would be full when they were done and i want to finish to basement and bonus room myself later and also will run addiitonal ciccuits myself for some outlets in my automation wiring room. So we added the 20 circuit subpanel. It shoudl be easy enough for them to move a few circuit into that panel and say leave the top 2 on each side in the main panel open.
Any suggestions?
I have the same arrangement as you, 200A service into a 40 circuit main and a 20 circuit sub right next to it. Depending on how you want it I'm sure there are several variations of how to hook up an interlock setup.
My manual interlock is located just below my outside meter and a 50A gen plugin is right next to that (breaker panels are on the other side of that wall inside the garage). The Gen input feeds the 40 circuit so that means it feeds the 20 circuit sub also. The main 200A breaker is on the outside as part of the meter/interlock panel so there are no breakers inside reserved for the generator. Obviously a double breaker (last 2 circuits) of the 40 feeds the 20 circuit sub right next to it.
I guess it all depends on if you want the generator to feed all of your circuits or if you want to easily be able to restrict the gen power to just the sub.
Good luck...
My manual interlock is located just below my outside meter and a 50A gen plugin is right next to that (breaker panels are on the other side of that wall inside the garage). The Gen input feeds the 40 circuit so that means it feeds the 20 circuit sub also. The main 200A breaker is on the outside as part of the meter/interlock panel so there are no breakers inside reserved for the generator. Obviously a double breaker (last 2 circuits) of the 40 feeds the 20 circuit sub right next to it.
I guess it all depends on if you want the generator to feed all of your circuits or if you want to easily be able to restrict the gen power to just the sub.
Good luck...
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
As far as i can tell i have the meter outside, the 40 circuit 200A panel with a main breaker, and a 20 circuit subpanel next to it.
I assume the electrician is familiar with these interlock type concepts and will ask him to keep the necesarry slots open to add a breaker for the back feed off the generator with interlock. This way all of the house circuit can be physically connected but obviously cannot all be run at the same time.
I can then color code and mark the key ones so the wife doesn't turn every thing on and overload the generator.
What happens when overload the generator anyway? Does the breaker in the panel for the generator match the generator capacity so you simply pop that breaker if you turn on too much stuff? Essentially this means you can turn figure out what the generator can handle by trial and error.
Ofcourse putting a brultech or TED on the generator circuit would give you much better information. But seems a bit overkill for a once in a year usage.
I assume the electrician is familiar with these interlock type concepts and will ask him to keep the necesarry slots open to add a breaker for the back feed off the generator with interlock. This way all of the house circuit can be physically connected but obviously cannot all be run at the same time.
I can then color code and mark the key ones so the wife doesn't turn every thing on and overload the generator.
What happens when overload the generator anyway? Does the breaker in the panel for the generator match the generator capacity so you simply pop that breaker if you turn on too much stuff? Essentially this means you can turn figure out what the generator can handle by trial and error.
Ofcourse putting a brultech or TED on the generator circuit would give you much better information. But seems a bit overkill for a once in a year usage.
I don't know where AskMike gets his information, but starting current on a table fan (2000 watts ???) is not 3x that of a space heater. And how can a 1/3 hp GDO use 250/350 watts while a 1/2 hp furnace motor is listed as 875/2300 watts? 
Lagerhead
Active Member
I don't know where AskMike gets his information, but starting current on a table fan (2000 watts ???) is not 3x that of a space heater. And how can a 1/3 hp GDO use 250/350 watts while a 1/2 hp furnace motor is listed as 875/2300 watts?
Though AskMike's table seems to have a few inconsistencies, the sense of it is correct. It is not unusual for a direct start low-horsepower motor to have starting currents 5-8 times higher than full-load running currents.
I don't know where AskMike gets his information, but starting current on a table fan (2000 watts ???) is not 3x that of a space heater. And how can a 1/3 hp GDO use 250/350 watts while a 1/2 hp furnace motor is listed as 875/2300 watts?
I posted that as a reference only. YMMV. There are several other sites that will give you close or similar information. If you are really that concerned then your only option would be to figure out exactly what circuits you are going to use, exactly what is on those circuits, and exactly what each of those devices power consumption would be running and at startup and then add them up...
I chose the get close method for just the larger devices, doubled it, and then added some more to find a round about number for my needs...just in case the wife decides to add some more of those plug in, smelly air thingies and throws my calculations off.
86turbodsl
Active Member
I have a system similar to KevinL's, with the following:
400A/320A dual lug meter panel split into
200A main breaker -> goes to shop
200A Automatic transfer switch
200A Siemens main panel - 40ckt
100A subpanel - 20ckt
The ATS is an Emerson made model. Can't remember the name on the box. Got it from generator joe on the internet.
The ATS's are reasonable cost up to 200A. Anything over 200A gets REALLY REALLY expensive. Like 5X as much.
The main circuit panel for the house is a lug only panel. The ATS has a main breaker in it.
The main panel then gets wired as a subpanel. The 100A panel is wired as a subpanel off the main panel.
The ATS wasn't very expensive. $1000 or so comes to mind. I don't have a genset wired in yet. I was planning to build
one from one of my spare 50HP diesel engines sitting in the shop.
The ATS is really nice. It has automatic exercising, and everything is automated. Emerson keeps track of you too, there was a
recall last year, Emerson called me up and made sure I needed the replacement part, then shipped it to me within a week with nice
detailed instructions on how to change it out.
400A/320A dual lug meter panel split into
200A main breaker -> goes to shop
200A Automatic transfer switch
200A Siemens main panel - 40ckt
100A subpanel - 20ckt
The ATS is an Emerson made model. Can't remember the name on the box. Got it from generator joe on the internet.
The ATS's are reasonable cost up to 200A. Anything over 200A gets REALLY REALLY expensive. Like 5X as much.
The main circuit panel for the house is a lug only panel. The ATS has a main breaker in it.
The main panel then gets wired as a subpanel. The 100A panel is wired as a subpanel off the main panel.
The ATS wasn't very expensive. $1000 or so comes to mind. I don't have a genset wired in yet. I was planning to build
one from one of my spare 50HP diesel engines sitting in the shop.
The ATS is really nice. It has automatic exercising, and everything is automated. Emerson keeps track of you too, there was a
recall last year, Emerson called me up and made sure I needed the replacement part, then shipped it to me within a week with nice
detailed instructions on how to change it out.
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
Just FYI, according to my electrician the aftermarket interlock kits are not (or no longer) allow for (at least new) homes in Connecticut.
As per my electrician such an interlock requires a special type of panel where the interlocking is on the inside.
I want to ask him to leave the top slots of my panel open for this, but after he mentioned this it seems that whenever i do think about generator i'll have to get some sort of transfer switch.
As per my electrician such an interlock requires a special type of panel where the interlocking is on the inside.
I want to ask him to leave the top slots of my panel open for this, but after he mentioned this it seems that whenever i do think about generator i'll have to get some sort of transfer switch.
does anybody have any good ideas where to buy the generator cable cheap? 100 ft of 10-3 wire at Home Depot is $120. But I have a feeling I won't be able to find it much cheaper, huh?
another thing I am trying to find out exactly which interlock kit will work with my
SquareD HOMC42UC Homeline Panel. any ideas?
Let me know, thanks a lot!!
another thing I am trying to find out exactly which interlock kit will work with my
SquareD HOMC42UC Homeline Panel. any ideas?
Let me know, thanks a lot!!
Hi Bandido, welcome to CT!
I think that part # is just the cover. However, I believe it is very similar to my SquareD box, so the SquareD interlock kit should work. I just installed mine, and it was a breeze to install.
As for the cable, I paid $40 for a 25' spool @ Lowes, so that's not a bad price. I would also look out for the Lowes & Home Depot coupons, I have gotten 2 10% coupons in the last few weeks, helps a lot. If needed, sign up for the 'movers' package, they'll mail you a coupon.
I think that part # is just the cover. However, I believe it is very similar to my SquareD box, so the SquareD interlock kit should work. I just installed mine, and it was a breeze to install.
As for the cable, I paid $40 for a 25' spool @ Lowes, so that's not a bad price. I would also look out for the Lowes & Home Depot coupons, I have gotten 2 10% coupons in the last few weeks, helps a lot. If needed, sign up for the 'movers' package, they'll mail you a coupon.
Thanks a lot, I have already gotten a lot of good information from this forum. Sounds like nice bunch of people!
I guess that's why i couldn't match up the part # with any Sqaure D panel!!
I think I just have a standard 200amp panel.
So there is 1 interlock kit that fits most panels? Where did you buy yours? My local Home Depot doesn't even know what I am talking about.
Oh and what kind of wiring did you use? I plan on using 10-3 wire from the breaker in the panel to the outside outlet. And then a 240V extension cord from there to the generator (5000/6250W)
Thanks again.
