AutomatedOutlet
Senior Member
I wonder who the one sap was that was doing it with less than 200GB in that poll...
Nope, it's still way too expensive for most users to put up enough panels to really matter. It takes $10,000-$12,000 to even generate enough power to run lights and appliances. Forget about heating and cooling and hot water.I don't think solar power is affordable for homeowners yet. I looked into it at one time many years ago and there were just to many years before I would reach the break even point of money outlaid for it to be worth it. Now maybe this technology is much cheaper than when I first looked into it, just not sure...
Nope, it's still way too expensive for most users to put up enough panels to really matter. It takes $10,000-$12,000 to even generate enough power to run lights and appliances. Forget about heating and cooling and hot water.I don't think solar power is affordable for homeowners yet. I looked into it at one time many years ago and there were just to many years before I would reach the break even point of money outlaid for it to be worth it. Now maybe this technology is much cheaper than when I first looked into it, just not sure...
You don't want to use PV power to heat water, you use a solar water heating system. Solar cooling is available but I don't know how well it works.
http://www.solarpanelsplus.com/solar-air-conditioning/
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/01/smallscale_sola.php
Solar water is MUCH more effecient than PV. A mix of both or use a tankless gas water heater for the hot water.
In fact, it probably has the best return that exists in alternative energy.
I have some preliminary figures, too... I use a drainback 64 sq ft solar hot water system, retrofitted to an 80 gallon electric-heated tank. It costs me 200 watts to run my pumps, and I get about 1900 watts of hot water back (5GPM @ about 3-4 degrees heat rise) In my area ($.11/KW), that translates into about $0.19 cents earned/hr of operation, or roughly $350-420/year. Total cost around $5500, or $3850 after tax incentives. (none in Virginia, 30% federal). We're talking about a 9-11 year return.
Another way to look at this: if I borrowed $3850 @ 7%, it would cost me $270/yr in interest, but I'd save $350-$420/yr in electricity.
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I did not look that closely at this site but it might steer you toward info that is more relevant to your area.In fact, it probably has the best return that exists in alternative energy.
I have some preliminary figures, too... I use a drainback 64 sq ft solar hot water system, retrofitted to an 80 gallon electric-heated tank. It costs me 200 watts to run my pumps, and I get about 1900 watts of hot water back (5GPM @ about 3-4 degrees heat rise) In my area ($.11/KW), that translates into about $0.19 cents earned/hr of operation, or roughly $350-420/year. Total cost around $5500, or $3850 after tax incentives. (none in Virginia, 30% federal). We're talking about a 9-11 year return.
Another way to look at this: if I borrowed $3850 @ 7%, it would cost me $270/yr in interest, but I'd save $350-$420/yr in electricity.
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I've toyed with this idea ... but the factor I'm not convinced by is that for a good portion of the year the bulk of our hot water usage occurs when there is no sun to help -- in the evenings and mornings. Any hot water used in the evening will have to be made up with gas/electric, and likewise in the morning even if the sun is up it isn't at anything like full strength yet so gas/electric will likely kick in to bring it up to temperature. Then assuming that the hot water tank is well insulated and no significant usage occurs during the day the cycle will repeat itself that evening. Solar might cover the standby losses during the day, but insulation will help with those too -- and at a much lower cost!
Anyone have any actual figures to show usage patterns against solar energy gain?
Of course, being in the great white north the secondary concern is how to keep the darn snow off the panels until about May ...
I've toyed with this idea ... but the factor I'm not convinced by is that for a good portion of the year the bulk of our hot water usage occurs when there is no sun to help -- in the evenings and mornings. Any hot water used in the evening will have to be made up with gas/electric, and likewise in the morning even if the sun is up it isn't at anything like full strength yet so gas/electric will likely kick in to bring it up to temperature. Then assuming that the hot water tank is well insulated and no significant usage occurs during the day the cycle will repeat itself that evening. Solar might cover the standby losses during the day, but insulation will help with those too -- and at a much lower cost!
Anyone have any actual figures to show usage patterns against solar energy gain?
Of course, being in the great white north the secondary concern is how to keep the darn snow off the panels until about May ...
I've toyed with this idea ... but the factor I'm not convinced by is that for a good portion of the year the bulk of our hot water usage occurs when there is no sun to help -- in the evenings and mornings. Any hot water used in the evening will have to be made up with gas/electric, and likewise in the morning even if the sun is up it isn't at anything like full strength yet so gas/electric will likely kick in to bring it up to temperature. Then assuming that the hot water tank is well insulated and no significant usage occurs during the day the cycle will repeat itself that evening. Solar might cover the standby losses during the day, but insulation will help with those too -- and at a much lower cost!
Anyone have any actual figures to show usage patterns against solar energy gain?
Of course, being in the great white north the secondary concern is how to keep the darn snow off the panels until about May ...
Your hot water tank should be able to keep the hot-water "hot" for quite a while:
1) The water can become quite hot. Today was a 55-60 degree day, but we ended up creating 160 degree water (you will definitely need a tempering valve!). After about 5 hours of sun, the top of my tank is 160-ish degrees, the bottom is around 150.
2) Typically, I'll lose a few degrees overnight, but really not that much
Of course, when you use the hot water (say at night), cold water will enter the water heater. The real question becomes whether your backup source heats the cold water, or whether you disable it and let the sun work its magic the next day. I use an ELK 9100 to control my water heater... and some basic automation rules for when to power the heating elements and when to wait.
You don't want to use PV power to heat water, you use a solar water heating system. Solar cooling is available but I don't know how well it works
well call me stupid, but I STILL dont get the whole sagetv gig. Not even interested in it yet. They need to fire their webdesigner. Yup, it still sucks.
well call me stupid, but I STILL dont get the whole sagetv gig. Not even interested in it yet. They need to fire their webdesigner. Yup, it still sucks.
Heh, and your solution for centralized but distributed TV timeshifting is what?
Your hot water tank should be able to keep the hot-water "hot" for quite a while:
1) The water can become quite hot. Today was a 55-60 degree day, but we ended up creating 160 degree water (you will definitely need a tempering valve!). After about 5 hours of sun, the top of my tank is 160-ish degrees, the bottom is around 150.
2) Typically, I'll lose a few degrees overnight, but really not that much
Of course, when you use the hot water (say at night), cold water will enter the water heater. The real question becomes whether your backup source heats the cold water, or whether you disable it and let the sun work its magic the next day. I use an ELK 9100 to control my water heater... and some basic automation rules for when to power the heating elements and when to wait.