Water Shutoff Valve

New list 2012OCT15:
drozwood90 - 2x3/4"
gatorhwk - 1x1/2"
pete_c - 1x1"
politics123 - 1x1/2"

???dgage - 2x3/4"
???funat120mph (Adam) - 2x3/4"
-------------------------
Total:
6x3/4"
2x1/2"
1x1"


I did not see dgage and funat120mph say anything, I assume you are both still in?

It sounds like if I can get a "yes" from everyone, then I'll get the last quote, and get pricing out to everyone.

--Dan
 
Still looking to hear from:
pete_c - 1x1"
funat120mph (Adam) - 2x3/4"

I'll add Automate in as well for a 3/4".

New list 2012OCT17:
drozwood90 - 2x3/4"
gatorhwk - 1x1/2"
politics123 - 1x1/2"
dgage - 2x3/4"
Automate - 1x3/4"
-------------------------
Total:
5x3/4"
2x1/2"

I'll set a date of say...Next Monday 2012OCT22. If I do not hear from people, that is the list I'm ordering. I'll contact the supplier, get the pricing, then start sending out PMs with costing.

--Dan
 
Thanks! So I'm starting to plan for how to implement this when it shows up.

questions:
  1. Should I only be applying power while there's valve movement, and then disconnect the power?
  2. Is it safe to leave the power connected at all times? Does the motor turn itself off once the valve is fully open or closed


System
Solar Hot Water (Drainback). System pumps a heat transfer liquid (water) to the roof to be heated, there's an external heat exchanger, and a second pump moves water from the tank through the heat exchanger.

Use Case
System works as designed, but the system needs a check valve and I've go through 1-2 check valves a year. Since the water can be hot and oxygenated, the spring/swing checks eventualy stop working (stuck open) and then I get a back flow at night. I'd like to replace the check valve with this automation valve.

When system turns on open valve. When system turns off, shut valve

Existing Equipment
The system has a differential controller that turns on/off... basically, what I think is a DPDT relay (120v core, switches 120v to the pumps) based on the temperatures. My pumps are line voltage connected to, I think, the NO side (they only go on when the sun is up), there's nothing connected to the NC side. (no need for background circulation) It's got to be a 120v core DPDT relay that switches 120v power


Thoughts
So... if its safe to keep the "power" hot to these pumps all the time, isn't this as simple as getting a DPDT relay (120v core) that switches 12v to the valve to open or shut, and either connecting it to either the NC/NO side, and then connect the valve accordingly? Nice thing about this design is that the "solar HW" system is independent of all other household systems.

If I need to apply power only for the ~5 seconds it takes to move the valve, I can do the above with a time-delay relay? Given the number of additional parts, I'd probably just connect it to an Elk M1 output. The Elk would need to know that the system was supposed to be running... lots of ways to do that, but II'd probably use a current transformer... ) 'Course, at that point, the ELK would have to be up and running in order for the valve to open/close
 
hmm...just got an e-mail this morning from our Ms. Ava Gu (the company contact I've been dealing with) at the valve company...

"Hi, Dan,

We quoted you some price on Oct. 8. Hope that you received it.

Now KLD100 can have food standard seal.

Are you still interested in buying some samples? Feel free to contact us if there is any question. Have a nice day."

So, not sure if that changes anyone's minds?
 
HA ... just when you thought everything was set. So, I assume the stainless 1" KLD100 w/ food grade seal is still in the $100 range? If so, I'm back in, Yes, I'll keep the 1/2" KLD20S as well.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Two quick things:

The KLD100 1" full bore (but not food-grade) was quoted at ~$98 without manual override, and $103 with it. Can we get an updated quote for the food-grade version in 1" and 1.25"?

Is everyone willing to wait a few days while we figure out the KLD100?
 
If the pricing is still in line, I'd be back in for one or two KLD100 1" full bore food-grade with override.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
I've been following this forum intermittently and I'm wanting to automate my water system. Which one of these valves would you recommend for a main water supply and I'm using an Elk M1 Gold.
 
"Ms. Ava,

Yes, I did get your quote, however we were in discussions over the non-food standard.

When did this get added? Is this new? Is there a different part number that we need to ask for, in order to get the 1" and 1.25" food standard FULL bore valves? Are they made out of Stainless Steel, or some other material? What is their pressure rating?

Thank you for your time in answering my questions!"

Her reply:
"Hi, Dan,



There is no different part number. If you need drinking water standard, just note it when you place order, then I will mark it in invoice and production plan.

They are stainless steel valve. When we say drinking water standard, it is only related with internal seal material, such as the stem seal. Now we have such food standard seal for production

It is the same pressure as KLD20. Working pressure 10 bars. Max pressure 16 bars. It means it can reach 16 bars occasionally, but not all the time. We recommend you under 10 bars in order to make valve work more reliably.

Best regards! Have a nice day."
 
Sounds like there is sufficient interest. I'll ask about the costing on 1", 1" full bore? and 1.25"??

Just because I am at work, and do not want to mess up, can someone post the part numbers of the larger valves you want quoted? I'll check back later on (lunch/before I leave??) and if someone posted, I'll fire off the e-mail. Otherwise, it'll probably have to wait until tomorrow or so.

--Dan
 
and yes, I was only pushing for Monday (yesterday) because it seemed we were finally settling...but as gatorhwk pointed out...monkey wrench in that plan!

--Dan
 
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