Adding 3rd keypad

[wuench]

I use B connectors everywhere.  I always strip and twist them together, you really don't need a crimper to crimp them, I have used the pliers on my stripper in a pinch.  I never solder because it is easier to remove later.   For example, refinishing my garage, had to disconnect a couple of sensors and reconnect later.  

 

[mikefamig]

I use B connectors everywhere.  I always strip and twist them together, you really don't need a crimper to crimp them, I have used the pliers on my stripper in a pinch.  I never solder because it is easier to remove later.   For example, refinishing my garage, had to disconnect a couple of sensors and reconnect later.  

The crimper is required if you want them to work without stripping the wire as they are advertised to do. Once you strip and twist the wires together the B connector is really only acting as a cap/insulator and pretty much doing the same job as a wire nut. The connection is already made before you even apply the B connector.
 
Mike.

 

[drvnbysound]

The crimper is required if you want them to work without stripping the wire as they are advertised to do. Once you strip and twist the wires together the B connector is really only acting as a cap/insulator and pretty much doing the same job as a wire nut. The connection is already made before you even apply the B connector.
 
Mike.

 
Yup, that's why I prefer them over wire nuts for the garage sensors... because they aren't easily removed once they are crimped on. There are obviously plenty of other connectors that could be used for this too, but they come with all the keypads, so it's convenient just to use them.

 

[Del91574]

Yup, that's why I prefer them over wire nuts for the garage sensors... because they aren't easily removed once they are crimped on. There are obviously plenty of other connectors that could be used for this too, but they come with all the keypads, so it's convenient just to use them.

And many of the jobs I work on, wire nuts are forbidden within the spec so that leaves....either bell cap connectors, Scotchloks (more expensive) or B-connectors. Bell caps are huge and won't fit down a 3/8 hole, neither will Scotchloks, let alone be staggered to really do so, so in the common world of residential installs, that leaves either solder/shrink (or high quality tape) or B-connectors.
 
Always easily removable and the better point that everyone missed: you can meter the circuit without disconnecting the splice; worst case is undoing some tape.

In a perfect world with properly wired EOLR's and (in the case of the M1) a bus that feeds in/out, the amount of splices and connections within the can are minimal unless somebody didn't buy enough expanders.

 

[mikefamig]

Yup, that's why I prefer them over wire nuts for the garage sensors... because they aren't easily removed once they are crimped on. There are obviously plenty of other connectors that could be used for this too, but they come with all the keypads, so it's convenient just to use them.

 
I bought a bag of the B connectors that are gel filled for damp environments and will still use them in the future but I will strip the wires from now on.
 
Mike.

 

[geogecko]

Speaking of EOLs, is it recommended to use those on contacts? I was just going to wire them without, but since I'm soldering, guess it would be easy enough to put one on...

 

[RAL]

There's been lots of debate about the value of EOLRs in residential installations.  Here is one thread with various opinions that might help you make up your mind.
 
Personally, I used EOLRs in my own house. I like the ability they provide to detect a failure in the wiring.

 

[geogecko]

I'll read up on it, thanks for the link. Just thinking about it, with normally open sensors (meaning the magnet closes the circuit), it means the resistor has to go in parallel with the sensor, correct? So when the door is closed, the panel sees a short, and when open, it sees the EOL resistance, or during a wiring open, an open circuit.

 

[RAL]

If the contact is closed when the zone is secure (e..g the door is closed and the magnet is near the contact) then the resistor should be in series.   If the contact is open when the zone is secure, then the resistor would be placed in parallel.
 
That way, under normal (secure) conditions, the M1 sees the resistance of the EOLR across its inputs.  If the wire is shorted, the resistance drops to zero, and if the wire is cut, the resistance becomes infinite.  Thus, both conditions can be detected.

 

[geogecko]

Ah, makes better sense now, thank you!

 

[Del91574]

I'll read up on it, thanks for the link. Just thinking about it, with normally open sensors (meaning the magnet closes the circuit), it means the resistor has to go in parallel with the sensor, correct? So when the door is closed, the panel sees a short, and when open, it sees the EOL resistance, or during a wiring open, an open circuit.

Contacts are almost never NO. (well by definintion, yes, but trade designation, no;NC)
 
EOLR's are in series the majority of the time, but there are exceptions. Only other variable is DEOLR or TEOLR, but that's another discussion.
 
The basics are: single device/cable, EOLR is useful to supervise cabling but does nothing to verify device is functional. Multiple devices/cable, EOLR is essentially useless and only supervises the cable pair it's installed on.
 
Mike learned the hard way about B-connectors and installation. There's ways to put them on and be reliable without stripping but that's a different discussion. In the alarm world, it's a strip and twist then crimp. Mechanical connection with the chicklet just being an insulator (and/or seal for the gel units).

 

[geogecko]

Thanks DEL, I think I will use the EOL's, a series connection will be much easier to seal up with shrink wrap. I ordered the Honeywell Ademco PRO51BTM-WH to use in my doors, since they are prewired in 3/8" hole plugs.

 

[mikefamig]

Thanks DEL, I think I will use the EOL's, a series connection will be much easier to seal up with shrink wrap. I ordered the Honeywell Ademco PRO51BTM-WH to use in my doors, since they are prewired in 3/8" hole plugs.

Do yourself a favor and get sensors with screw terminals.
 
http://www.security.honeywell.com/hsc/products/intruder-detection-systems/sensor/contact/recess-mount/31261.html
 
They are easier to innsttall and neater when you're done.
 
Mike.

 

[geogecko]

Thought I read several people that recommended against those, reviews on Amazon also seem to point to the same...would have been a lot easier, for sure, but I also have one of those Pyropens, so soldering is not really a big hassle anyway.

 

[drvnbysound]

I use the ones with terminals, yet to have an issue.