I have an existing structured wiring can that is sitting between studs in my utility closet. It is full, and I would like to move all of the coax (I have two coax to every jack on the basement and first floor level after a remodel) and related components to a seperate can. The stud space to the left has a wall switch in it, so is out of the question. The stud space to the right is about 1/2" to narrow. I have thought about marking the edge of the can on the stud and then running a circular saw up the length of it and then using a sharp chisel to finish it off. If I go through to the other side, my wife will kill me. Am I nuts for considering this? Should I just hand a sheet of MDF and mount the coax to it?
Adding a structured wiring can in a slightly narrow stud space
- Thread starter tpboyce
- Start date
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
I'm in a similar dilemma in my wiring closet where I wanted to add another panel, but the studs were to close as it was at the edge of a wall. I'm considering just mounting the can flush on the drywall itself.
I ran into a similar situation when I installed two cans in a closet at my house. The first can went in just fine, but the 2nd was coming up a 1/2 short. It wasn't due to warpage, but due to imprecise installation of the stud. The wall was not bearing, so I simply cut the stud at the top and bottom of the can and moved it over 1/2". It still makes contact with the stub above and below the stud (and therefore provides enough strength to hold the can just fine), but offset slightly and now the can fits. A little bit of drywall repair, and everything looks good as new. Obviously I would not have been able to do this on a bearing wall, but I got lucky there.
So to make a long story short, I would take a hard look at your situation. Measure and find out why the 2nd can doesn't fit. Is the stud installed 1/2" to close or is it that one of the studs on either side is warped. If it is only warped, with a lot of elbow grease, you can probably get it in. If it is too close and it isn't a bearing wall, you can cut the stud and move it slightly.
So to make a long story short, I would take a hard look at your situation. Measure and find out why the 2nd can doesn't fit. Is the stud installed 1/2" to close or is it that one of the studs on either side is warped. If it is only warped, with a lot of elbow grease, you can probably get it in. If it is too close and it isn't a bearing wall, you can cut the stud and move it slightly.
Ranger Digital
Active Member
I see no problem whatsoever with making the adjacent space the proper width. Are you a handy man? If so, dont even ask us, just do it.
I had the same problem in my house. I decided to locate my enclosure inside my coat closet in the entry. Unfortunately, the cavity was about 1/2" short of the standard width (the stud seems to be a little closer than standard, and is either a crooked piece of wood or went in not exactly straight).. which I only discovered after I cut away the drywall.
I found that almost every enclosure assumed 16" center-to-center. I did find a couple of enclosures that were 12" wide, though: Data Comm and Cooper Wiring make 12"x28" and 12"x44" (they're sold under these two brands but are AFAICT the same unit). Unfortunately, being less wide than the more common enclosures (e.g. Leviton, OnQ, etc) means that the Data Comm / Cooper enclosure isn't wide enough to have two columns of modules side by side.
I ended up buying a Data Comm 12"x28" enclosure and was planning to put that into the closet. Unfortunately a cpl weeks later I had some scope creep and now I'm relatively certain that the 28" enclosure won't be big enough. Now I'm debating getting the 12"x44" or notching the stud to make a standard-sized enclosure fit (any other alternatives, short of opening up more drywall and putting in another stud, and having to patch/paint it all?). I'm guessing the wall isn't load bearing (it doesn't look like it), but I'd like to be certain.. is there any definitive way to tell?
Also, if I were to notch the stud to make an extra 1/2" or so of room, what's the easiest way to get a clean cut?
I found that almost every enclosure assumed 16" center-to-center. I did find a couple of enclosures that were 12" wide, though: Data Comm and Cooper Wiring make 12"x28" and 12"x44" (they're sold under these two brands but are AFAICT the same unit). Unfortunately, being less wide than the more common enclosures (e.g. Leviton, OnQ, etc) means that the Data Comm / Cooper enclosure isn't wide enough to have two columns of modules side by side.
I ended up buying a Data Comm 12"x28" enclosure and was planning to put that into the closet. Unfortunately a cpl weeks later I had some scope creep and now I'm relatively certain that the 28" enclosure won't be big enough. Now I'm debating getting the 12"x44" or notching the stud to make a standard-sized enclosure fit (any other alternatives, short of opening up more drywall and putting in another stud, and having to patch/paint it all?). I'm guessing the wall isn't load bearing (it doesn't look like it), but I'd like to be certain.. is there any definitive way to tell?
Also, if I were to notch the stud to make an extra 1/2" or so of room, what's the easiest way to get a clean cut?
Steve
Senior Member
Rule of thumb - ALWAYS buy the next larger size SWP from what you estimate you need. SWP's are like hard drives, they fill up and become too small very quickly. Of course there are some tricks to maximizing space, like stacking like boards on standoffs (Electron's trick). So, if you have say multiple M1XSP's, you can put 3 of them in the same footprint/space. This will work with other cards as well.
