Affordable 110 blocks
- Thread starter SnyperBob
- Start date
SnyperBob
Active Member
I just came across these:
http://www.phonegeeks.com/nonphonwirbl.html
They look a lot easier to understand than normal 110/66 wiring blocks. I wonder how well they work....
http://www.phonegeeks.com/nonphonwirbl.html
They look a lot easier to understand than normal 110/66 wiring blocks. I wonder how well they work....
Photon
Active Member
TSElectronic: https://www.tselectronic.com/leviton/41ab61f4.html
TESSCO: http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProd...amp;eventPage=1
"I'm not looking for anything expensive." Think 66-block instead.
TESSCO: http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProd...amp;eventPage=1
"I'm not looking for anything expensive." Think 66-block instead.
tmbrown97
Senior Member
Personally I like 110 better too... although for certain telecom situations, 66 can be easier...
Regardless, here's a site I've used in the past:
http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/dept_id_103...WID=54780922511
Otherwise the local electrical supply but you need an account for them to talk to you.
Regardless, here's a site I've used in the past:
http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/dept_id_103...WID=54780922511
Otherwise the local electrical supply but you need an account for them to talk to you.
gizmosrcool
Member
Try http://cableorganizer.com/telecom-datacom/...lock-wiring.htm
I have gotten a few things from them and have been happy.
I have gotten a few things from them and have been happy.
hult
Active Member
Try eBay.
For example, new, 50-pair 110 blocks for $8.90 each total (shipping to US included).
http://cgi.ebay.com/50pr-Wiring-Base-110-8...p3286.m20.l1116
Seller has been on eBay eleven years with 41433 feedback @ 100% rating. Product returnable (less shipping) for any reason.
HTH ... Marc
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
Whats most suitable for solid 22-2 and 22-4 terminations?? 110 block or 66 block?
From what I'm reading both will take a 22 gauge wire. Which one is a 'cleaner' solution?
From what I'm reading both will take a 22 gauge wire. Which one is a 'cleaner' solution?
tmbrown97
Senior Member
I think it's preference, honestly. You see 66 blocks in most telecom rooms, and 110 in most Cat5/data installs.
The one thing with the 110 - the standard blocks have you punch down the first set - the ones that won't ever change, then you put the top clips on, and cross connect to those. It's easy enough to change the top wires, but damn-near impossible to change the bottom ones - they're pretty permanent... if this is a setup you'll be adding to or changing often, it may not be the best solution. But, if you're always working in fixed sets like Cat5, they work great.
66 on the other hand you can screw with terminal by terminal quite easily. And if you're cross connecting from one pair on the left to a matching pair on the right, the bridge clips make things very easy.
It comes down to what you're trying to do and how often it'll change. I like 110 better for working with and cleaner appearance, but they're a whole lot less flexible for change. I use them a lot when I'm bringing in phone lines or cross connecting to patch panels - things that are fairly set and shouldn't change. In those situations, you can generally plan ahead for future capacity and have everything punched out ready to go. But for home DIY use and cleanliness, I'd probably recommend 66 just for flexibility. Of course, things like the ChannelVision or Leviton structured wiring-type connections, they aren't stacked and use 110 - that's a different story because there isn't a bottom layer in the mix.
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
The 110 or 66 blocks would be for terminating all 22/2 and 22/4 field/house side wiring onto a block on the wall. From there i would them connect it to the ELK input cards. If i need to reconfigure or even if i ever move and take the ELK then any future alarm installer would have a nice base to work from. It's about 22 window sensors, 5 doors and a few smokes so not all that much.
SnyperBob
Active Member
Yeah, I'm still trying to decide what I want to use. I may just go with leviton phone modules since they'lll pop right into my leviton cans. I dunno, I don't even have a land line, so I don't even need to worry about this yet, I'll just leave the wires unterminated in the cans for now
tmbrown97
Senior Member
Honestly, unless there's a reason for going with the cross connects, why not just connect the wires, and leave a little wire in the attic or walls in case you need to reconfigure? Pointless cross-connections just cost money (and may look clean, but need more wall space).
Lagerhead
Active Member
I like high-density wire terminations. I think there are advantages in wire management (avoiding the rats nest, better cable identification, etc.) and in troubleshooting, reconfiguration and maintenance.
http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...amp;#entry96602
tmbrown97
Senior Member
Yeah, that's one of the things I miss most about living back East - Basements... Out here, everything goes in the Master Bedroom closet typically, in flush mounted cans. So, unless I want a can between each stud bay, I have to make the inside of my cans as efficient as possible, and leave any excess wire in the wall above or in the attic.
