This poll is only for those of you that have either already installed ALC lighting or are actively working on an install and have some actual experience with it. If you are just thinking about it, regardless of how much you read or what your personal opinion might be, please don't vote.
Additional feedback requested:
Is the color of the LED on the LED models green?
Have you used the configuration software, and what do you think of it?
What don't you like about the system and what would you want to improve or feature(s) to add?
If you also used or had experience with UPB, besides the obvious difference in the hard control wire, how would you compare the system to UPB? Is the software as useful as UpStart, etc.
If any of you have any pictures of the switch, especially with the LED, please post some if you can.
It looks like I'm in the minority here having both 7+ years (pre-OnQ) and UPB.
* ALC for 7 years
* Started with much older interfaces/modules and custom Linux code
* Using current LMM, remote hubs, 3 branches, etc.
* Integrated to Elk M1
* 11 Switches, mixture of dimmer and relay
* 5 more to install (wire run, time...)
* 2 4-button scene switches
* Branch and Scenetech Software
* Lost 1 LMM and 2 switches to a power surge
* HR wiring to main control box (br 1) or remote hubs (br2/3)
* UPB for about a year
* 3 switches (2 Universal, one dual-rocker)
* 1 Lamp module
* 4 more to install and 1 inline module
* Elk Integration
* Upstart
This is a retro-fit in a 3600sq foot house built in 1971. Multiple electrical panels, aluminum wiring, metal J-boxes.
My preference is hard-wired but not having ALC outlets and not being able to get wire to some places I needed it made me look at UPB.
Your questions first:
LED's. My switches are older and don't have them, but the scene switches do. Green. These are in
family rooms and I can't honestly say I've ever noticed them until I read this and had to look.
They aren't bright enough to be used to locate the switches in the dark.
Calling the OnQ software "configuration" software, next to UPB, may be pushing it. That is
probably my biggest complaint with ALC because you don't have the programming flexibility short
of actually implementing it yourself. However, with the newer LMM you can create basic scene
groups for "state" but you don't have anything close to the toggle/multi-use function buttons
UPB does.
As far as improvements:
* Better LMM. If you can do it on UPB, you could do it with a sufficiently advanced LMM for
links, toggles, fade rates, etc because of the switches' program/sample/notify of changes
protocol implementation. You would also get the advantage in scene changes that the
switches report their new settings (UPB won't do this without polling!). I had this on my
older system (tap, double tap, patterns) but haven't dealt with it after Elk.
* Replacable face plates. These may actually be available now (setnetpro?) but I tried to swap
some out 2 years ago and was basically told it was cheaper to buy new switches!
* Height/Width/Depth of switches - this goes back to metal j-boxes - I've had to replace a number
of boxes because switches don't fit. UPB has the same issue.
* Quick-connect for LV wiring. Both to make changing switches easier and let be
daisy-chain them in a box w/o hard wiring each one. It could also allow for pulling the wire
"connect" wire into the box instead of over.
* ALC Outlet and Inline relay modules
* FIX ELK. This isn't an ALC issue, but 4 "changes" back-to-back is the limit Elk can take
before it confusues status-reports with commands and starts re-issuing commands back to
switches (Scenes with >4 targets don't work!)
I think through this I've answered some of your UPB questions, but Upstart rocks compared
with ALC. After having ALC I don't like the PLC delays, but am learning to deal with them.
Another key "issue" on UPB is concurrent changes. If I tap both switches off in my son's
room (overhead, link to lamp) then only 1 gets sent and the other is dropped. Flip a coin.
Alas, the embedded controller to implement a new LMM and to the Elk integration is sitting
on the shelf with all the switches I still need to install. Some are just time, some need
boxes replaced first. I have one 4-way that is split between the 2 panels that I just
don't want to touch (hot from front panel, neutral from rear).
If I can answer anything else, feel free to ask.
Jay
