B-connector splicing technique

[desertdweller]

I searched the forums but didn't find anything -- what is the proper way to splice wire using "B-connectors" like the ELK ELK-902-2? I'm splicing two or three 22 AWG wires together. I understand you don't need to strip the insulation before crimping, but:

1. Should the wires go straight in to the B-connector or should they be twisted several times before inserting?

2. Is a special crimp tool required or can one just use a pliers?


BTW -- These forms are great! I've been lurking here for quite awhile and have learned a lot... just not this ;-) Recently got an ELK from AO and have started installing it.

 

[Neurorad]

Hey desertdweller, welcome. I've never used these B-connectors, but I had some additional questions.

Do most people strip the wire, before inserting? Directions say not to, but I was curious.

I'd love to see a pic of the B-connector with the cover removed, or maybe a description. I looked online, but failed.

Lots of different options for splicing - these B-connectors seem like one of the easiest.

Work well for stranded and unstranded?

Do most people prefer the gel-filled, even if indoors?

I'd feel more comfortable using these if they had a transparent cover.

For larger gauge splices, I'm using the Wago Lever Nuts (splicing speaker cable, 16 AWG).

 

[russban]

If you are not stripping put them straight in, don't twist. Personally, I always strip the insulation and twist before crimping. I have found that using the inner crimping point of a linemans pliers works best. By that I mean the point on the handle side of the pivot, not the side with the cutter.

 

[PaulD]

The inside of the B-connectors are full of little spikes intended to pierce the insulation to make the electrical contact. Works fine as long as the insulation is thin as typically found on 22 gage security wire. However, some wire has thicker insulation and I have had poor results with the thicker insulation.

 

[AceCannon]

I've used these "telephone splice connectors" or "butt splice connectors" for 24ga cat5e up to 19ga solid core. Haven't tried stranded. (They have them at Lowes, as well)

I really like the fact that they will connect 2 or 3 wires. Easy to jumper over to multiple connections if needed. This has come in handy with some of my remote ALC connections. Also for my 32-ohm Elk speakers, I used two cat5e conductors each for + and -, so they made those connections a snap, as well.

 

[gatchel]

Too many vairables with wire size, insulation thickness, etc.

I always strip when making a connection with B connectors.

 

[opie]

I always strip, twist and try to make sure some of the insulation is crimped by the teeth to keep the bean securely in place. I also second the Lineman's pliers for crimping. I usually use gel filled ones but that's mostly because I have 1,000s of them.

 

[desertdweller]

Thanks all for the tips It sounds like it is safest to strip, twist, insert, and crimp with lineman pliers. Happy crimping!

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Thanks all for the tips It sounds like it is safest to strip, twist, insert, and crimp with lineman pliers. Happy crimping!

The "B" connectors have been a very reliable metod for quite sometime for permanent connections. http://www.elkproducts.com/products/elk-902-2.htm

Scotchlock connectors have also been used. They may be quicker to install. Uniform twists are becoming important with data, so connectors are frowned upon.

Usually you would not use stranded wire with crimped connectors. A mix of solid and stranded should be avoided without using wire ferrules. hey are just tubes that are crushed on the end of the wire. They are used primarily for screw terminal connection to stranded wire.

A friend of mine uses very small DIN terminal strips for car electronics installs. They don't have a "wire protector", which is a flat piece of metal that the scre hits before hiting the wire. They do wonderfull splicing and they can be cut in various lengths.

 

[Neurorad]

Bumping for more recs on B-connectors.
 
Are all brands created equal?  I see the Elk Yellow jackets, Dolphin branded, unbranded, and gel-filled.  Lots of options.
 
Thanks!

 

[pct88]

I always use the gel-filled; keeps out the moisture as needed.  They are essentially a rolled up sheet of pierced metal shrink wrapped.  I have used a wide variety of brands and the only issue I can recall is that the outer insulation may crack if over-crimped which could allow shorting.
 
As suggested above my favorite way to crimp them is to use the inside connector crimp die of lineman's pliers (NOT the wire-pulling ridged style).  I crimp twice with a gap in between, then tug lightly to be sure the wire is secure inside the connector.  Pre-strip and twist for thinner wires that might pull out.
 
I see this tool specifically for B-Connector crimping; a bit too pricey for me though:
 
DOLPHIN COMPONENTS CORP DC-4141 Crimping Tool, Ratchet, 22-10AWG

 

[Monk]

The last connection I did with the ELK connectors, I did not strip the wires - worked fine. I have used the Elk jell-filled and no name chicklets in addition to the Scotch ones someone mentioned earlier in the thread. The scotch ones are obviously of better quality but no matter it seems - none of them have ever failed.

 

[Del91574]

The various manufacturers really don't make much of a difference in my experience. The only difference is how "plastic" or not the outside sheath is. Older chickets were more like thick poly compared to the thin shrink of today, with a small plug in the end that most manufacturers call a "test point".
 
The improper way is to flatten them down over the cable or conductors...they were designed with the teeth to actually pierce and bite through insulation and into the copper in telco station wiring, so if you use solid for an alarm, that's what you're supposed to do....that said, I use the strip, twist, crimp method.
 
The Dolphin tool is just a ratchet 3 nest insulated terminal crimper, no different than one used for Sta-kons.
 
I generally use a T+B 112M as my cutters and crimpers in the field, but I do also own 3 "vintage" correct tools for properly pressing B-connectors, all made by Bell, a 1959, a 1960's and a 1970's version.
 
I've stated elsewhere what the story was with Bell, Scotchlocks (U-connectors) and how they all work and the reason why they fell out of favor (not performance, but economics). When a crimp is done properly on a B connector it's electrically equivalent to a soldered connection.

FWIW: the real deal crimper/presser is still being made, but not for the faint of heart in the economic standpoint.
http://gmptools.com/nf/85330.htm

 

[Neurorad]

From what people have said, it seems the B-connectors are hard to screw up.

I think I'll order some gel-filled, crimp with a pliers, and see how that goes. Whether I strip or not, and twist, still undecided.

Looks like the Dolphin ratcheted crimpers are as cheap as $50 wholesale. Hard to justify even that, though.

 

[Neurorad]

I'll be sure to try and get that central 'oval' crimp, thanks DEL.