Build back boxes for recess light
- Thread starter gasbie
- Start date
tmbrown97
Senior Member
Can you give us a little more info, like what type of lighting, and where it will be located? A lot of lighting doesn't need a back box depending on what it's mounted in.
As a general note, with any woodworking, Wood Glue holds best - nails just keep things in place until the glue dries.
As a general note, with any woodworking, Wood Glue holds best - nails just keep things in place until the glue dries.
Desert_AIP
Senior Member
Yes, more details please.
Where are they and what do you want to accomplish with the boxes?
If they are exposed to the attic, you can make boxes out of 2" foam, which can be air sealed and will significantly improve HVAC performance over simply piling loose insulation on top of them.
Where are they and what do you want to accomplish with the boxes?
If they are exposed to the attic, you can make boxes out of 2" foam, which can be air sealed and will significantly improve HVAC performance over simply piling loose insulation on top of them.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
As mentioned, more info.
What type of lights?
Purpose?
-sound insulation
-thermal insulation (air seal)
What is on the other side? attic, joist space between floors, roof rafter space, etc.
What type of lights?
Purpose?
-sound insulation
-thermal insulation (air seal)
What is on the other side? attic, joist space between floors, roof rafter space, etc.
I've been wanting to do this to my IC-rated attic exposed 6" cans for a few years now as they are not air tight versions.
I considered using wood to build a simple box, but they are new construction cans so that means support brackets between joists that throw a monkey wrench in that plan. The other plan I had was to simply use fire-rated caulking to seal the holes in the can itself and the space between the can and ceiling.....and while I was up there every other ceiling box (such as fans) and wire chases.
Foam insulation, as mentioned above, may be best though as I can build some boxes in the garage have the ability to make easy modifications in the attic since I can knife the foam as needed.
I considered using wood to build a simple box, but they are new construction cans so that means support brackets between joists that throw a monkey wrench in that plan. The other plan I had was to simply use fire-rated caulking to seal the holes in the can itself and the space between the can and ceiling.....and while I was up there every other ceiling box (such as fans) and wire chases.
Foam insulation, as mentioned above, may be best though as I can build some boxes in the garage have the ability to make easy modifications in the attic since I can knife the foam as needed.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
You can probably remove those brackets now that the ceiling is in place. The brackets hold the cans in place during rough-in, but once the drywall is installed they aren't necessary. They are on sliders and just prying them out of the joists on each side allows you to slide them far enough from the joists that you can drop your prefab box over the top.
I don't know about spray foam directly onto the cans as it may expand through crackes and into the innards of the can.
I don't know about spray foam directly onto the cans as it may expand through crackes and into the innards of the can.
True.
Not foam; caulk. Or now that I think about it, maybe a HVAC mastic depending on heat issues???
Happy new year guys. Thanks for the quick response. I'm building a home theater in my basement and I will be using some halo air tite recess light that will going into the ceiling. Just to let you know, my ceiling is not that deep, nor is it that high. If I install the recess light without the box, I will have little space left to work with above the recess can. I was thinking about installing the recess can to the beams, then build two side boxes for each can. these side boxes will eventually form a box with the beam. Am not sure if yall can picture what I'm say. My main purpose is for sound/insulation. I have my dinning room on top of this theater. Thanks
apostolakisl
Senior Member
Definitely caulk. If you make the boxes (which is the best way in my opinion), caulk the seems of the box and caulk the whole box down to the drywall. If you do that, there is no need to mess with any holes/cracks in the actual can.
Desert_AIP
Senior Member
The pink foam, that is what I was talking about and what I plan to do soon.
The boxes will be ~18" cube, caulked & sealed inside and caulked to the top of the drywall.
The boxes will be ~18" cube, caulked & sealed inside and caulked to the top of the drywall.
That was some good info, but it concentrates on sound proofing and using non-IC cans.
My question would be if cement board is required for IC cans or could you safely just use foam insulation?
Although, you would think foam is fine since the cans are already fully covered with fiberglass insulation. However, that doesn't keep them thermally sealed like the box would.
My question would be if cement board is required for IC cans or could you safely just use foam insulation?
Although, you would think foam is fine since the cans are already fully covered with fiberglass insulation. However, that doesn't keep them thermally sealed like the box would.
Desert_AIP
Senior Member
Sounds like you don't have enough room for something like this.
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Lighting/Home-Lighting/how-to-update-recessed-lights
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Lighting/Home-Lighting/how-to-update-recessed-lights
