Centralite Jetstream with Omni Pro II

I'm supposed to be notified when the new buttons are available and I have not heard. That being said I try to check in about once a month anyway and last check was 3 weeks ago so I'll check again shortly. But, You don't need to let that hold you back as you can get a few switches and get comfortable with them. You can fairly easily change the buttons.

Besides the button my main hesitation with Jetstream is lack of products. The have your very basic stuff and that's it - not even an inline module. The only other thing to consider is you need enough switches. They need to be withing around 30 feet of each other to talk reliably. So don't expect you can have a switch on one end of the house and then another on the opposite side and have it work. The more you have the better the mesh and reliability.
 
I'm supposed to be notified when the new buttons are available and I have not heard. That being said I try to check in about once a month anyway and last check was 3 weeks ago so I'll check again shortly. But, You don't need to let that hold you back as you can get a few switches and get comfortable with them. You can fairly easily change the buttons.

Besides the button my main hesitation with Jetstream is lack of products. The have your very basic stuff and that's it - not even an inline module. The only other thing to consider is you need enough switches. They need to be withing around 30 feet of each other to talk reliably. So don't expect you can have a switch on one end of the house and then another on the opposite side and have it work. The more you have the better the mesh and reliability.
Cool, thanks for the update - I've gone ahead and ordered 3 switches from AO to see how they work (they'll all be within a few feet of each other so range won't be a problem). I do like the idea of having those 3 button switches that I can end up using for all sorts of things when integrated into my CQC setup. The lack of products doesn't concern me too much - I can always use UPB where necessary.
 
The lack of products doesn't concern me too much - I can always use UPB where necessary.
Yea, I was going to mention that. Nothing wrong with hybrid systems. I have a good mix of both UPB and Jetstream at the moment. You're going to like the Jetstream config software, easy and simple. You can also get engraved buttons if you want.
 
The lack of products doesn't concern me too much - I can always use UPB where necessary.
Yea, I was going to mention that. Nothing wrong with hybrid systems. I have a good mix of both UPB and Jetstream at the moment. You're going to like the Jetstream config software, easy and simple. You can also get engraved buttons if you want.
I liked that too... not sure why I didn't go down this path to begin with - the price point is definitely reasonable (as reasonable as these things can be!). I guess I just bought into the whole 'hardwired-is-better' mentality. Oh well...

A question for you though... I understand that Centralite no longer produces 'slave' switches? Is that true? If so, how do you wire up 3 and 4-way setups? The PDFs on the Centralite site seem to show wiring with their 'slaves' still.
 
A question for you though... I understand that Centralite no longer produces 'slave' switches? Is that true? If so, how do you wire up 3 and 4-way setups? The PDFs on the Centralite site seem to show wiring with their 'slaves' still.

You end up having to use a regular switch and turn it into a "slave" switch. It really stinks because you pay for a full switch and then not use it as such.
 
my jetstream order just arrived today... i can see the box sitting on the steps using my Panasonic IP Camera. I love this stuff ;)

Hopefully i'll get one or two switches installed tonight.

i'll let y'all know how it goes.
 
A question for you though... I understand that Centralite no longer produces 'slave' switches? Is that true? If so, how do you wire up 3 and 4-way setups? The PDFs on the Centralite site seem to show wiring with their 'slaves' still.

You end up having to use a regular switch and turn it into a "slave" switch. It really stinks because you pay for a full switch and then not use it as such.
Yea but I'm used to that anyway. Since UPB slaves really suck I use full UPB switches. This is no different, plus since its wireless it helps the mesh.
 
Let's say your "slave" switch is on Circuit A. If your house is anything like mine, there will probably be another switch for Circuit B nearby. Just put the Jetstream switch on Circuit B, and program one of the three buttons to be the slave for Circuit A. Put a blank panel where the original Circuit A slave was located. Now you have a slave, and you have automated an additional circuit.

A question for you though... I understand that Centralite no longer produces 'slave' switches? Is that true? If so, how do you wire up 3 and 4-way setups? The PDFs on the Centralite site seem to show wiring with their 'slaves' still.

You end up having to use a regular switch and turn it into a "slave" switch. It really stinks because you pay for a full switch and then not use it as such.
 
Let's say your "slave" switch is on Circuit A. If your house is anything like mine, there will probably be another switch for Circuit B nearby. Just put the Jetstream switch on Circuit B, and program one of the three buttons to be the slave for Circuit A. Put a blank panel where the original Circuit A slave was located. Now you have a slave, and you have automated an additional circuit.
Ah... that's kind of a neat way of doing it - I wouldn't have thought about doing it that way, thanks. Although then I have blank wallplates that have to pass WAF (I wonder if anyone makes a plate that mounts flush with the drywall so that it can actually be drywalled over if necessary?)

A related question though - if I've got a 3 or 4 way setup, is there any reason to actually remove the existing dumb $2 'slave' switches? Basically, I end up with a Jetstream switch and a regular switch both controlling the load. I could see that in a dimming environment, the dumb switch will only turn things on/off, but in a non-dimming situation, this wouldn't be an issue. See any issue with that?
 
Although then I have blank wallplates that have to pass WAF (I wonder if anyone makes a plate that mounts flush with the drywall so that it can actually be drywalled over if necessary?)
I'm not an electrician, but I think they frown on boxes that can not be accessed. When I say blank wallplate, I mean a little blank insert to fill up the center of a decora wall plate. That looks better than just a blank plate. You could also just disconnect the switch and leave it in the wall, but it doesn't really look much different than a blank insert.

A related question though - if I've got a 3 or 4 way setup, is there any reason to actually remove the existing dumb $2 'slave' switches? Basically, I end up with a Jetstream switch and a regular switch both controlling the load.
I think you need to disconnect the dumb switches, but I could be wrong about that.
 
You can't use an automated switch and regular switch on the same load. Not sure about all the 'Circuit A or B stuff' bu there is no need to do anything special with the 'slave' switch. The idea is to simply replace the 'normal' 2nd switch with a regular JS switch which can be any style - 1 or 3 button. It does not need to connect the load or anything, just simply hot, neutral and ground. If you don't have neutral or something in the 'slave' location you can use one of the existing travelers to bring it from the primary location. This way it all works 'normal' as before, no blank plates or anything weird and if you use the 3 button, you still get the extra 2 buttons.
 
Not sure about all the 'Circuit A or B stuff'
It's not that complicated, and there is a real benefit. Instead of installing a slave switch, just automate a different set of lights nearby, and program one of the other buttons to serve the purpose of a slave. Of course you could replace every slave with a JetStream switch, it just may be unnecessarily expensive.

I have 43 JetStream switches in my house, and only one does not control a load. The rest control the load for the circuit they're on, and act as a slave for one or two other loads or activate scenes.
 
Well, the way I see it the only benefit is the cost of an extra switch which granted is a savings. But the negatives are you have a blank plate (ugly/low waf) or just a dummy switch. And in either case of a dummy switch or a remote button, that may be fine for you but will be confusing to guests. If you have alot of 3/4 ways and you live alone this can work well, but if you have a family and guests and not too many 3/4 ways it may just be worth the incremental cost to have things work intuitively the way they always have.
 
I'm supposed to be notified when the new buttons are available and I have not heard. That being said I try to check in about once a month anyway and last check was 3 weeks ago so I'll check again shortly.
Well I just heard back and there is still no news. I have been chasing this for a year now and frankly I'm getting frustrated and to the point of considering something else since I don't know if it will ever happen. But you should definitely try the switches yourself and if you are happy with the current buttons then decide for yourself based on that.
 
But the negatives are you have a blank plate (ugly/low waf) or just a dummy switch. And in either case of a dummy switch or a remote button, that may be fine for you but will be confusing to guests.
I have a lot of three and four gang switch locations in my house so even without JetStream it was confusing. With JetStream, I can label each button which makes it easier for guests. (I guess I could stick labels on regular switches, but that is not very elegant.)

As for WAF, from more than a few feet away, a blank insert looks about the same as a switch. They are both pretty flat.

Thanks for checking up on progress, although it is disappointing.
 
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