Compression F-Connectors...
- Thread starter beelzerob
- Start date
Steve
Senior Member
IMHO I would not purposefully skimp on cheap stuff like connectors. While I am no expert and don't have the scientific data to back it up, if vendors, specs or whatever do call for a higher rated component, I would use it, especially connectors which are relatively inexpensive.
Sure, the 1g connectors may work ok now, but maybe the signal changes, is enhanced, or just starts working as the designed, or whatever - maybe even PQ is different on different channels that come from different satellites or bands and you only see a lesser quality one that looks fine in testing but then all of the sudden you tune a station and you see ghosting/artifacts/ or just a generally not optimal picture. Seeing how it is usually a PITA to access the connectors and change them, I would personally opt to put the spec'd one on up front. And especially if I were doing alot of pro installs. The last thing I would want is a callback that would cost me far more than spending an extra few cents on the right connector.
There are probably alot of analogies for this, just one I can think of is a fuse or circuit breaker. Say an appliance calls for a 3A fuse and the device pulls say .5A doing basic stuff but draws 2.5A doing other less frequent stuff. The spec'd 3A fuse will work all the time. But say you did not have a 3A fuse and decided, oh, I will just use a 2A fuse and it will work fine. Well, it would as long as the device did basic stuff at .5A but when the device did advanced stuff for which it is capable, your 2A fuse pops. Same with the satellite, the 1G connectors may work fine for alot of the stuff, but you may well get bit later doing other stuff.
Ok, /soapbox
Sure, the 1g connectors may work ok now, but maybe the signal changes, is enhanced, or just starts working as the designed, or whatever - maybe even PQ is different on different channels that come from different satellites or bands and you only see a lesser quality one that looks fine in testing but then all of the sudden you tune a station and you see ghosting/artifacts/ or just a generally not optimal picture. Seeing how it is usually a PITA to access the connectors and change them, I would personally opt to put the spec'd one on up front. And especially if I were doing alot of pro installs. The last thing I would want is a callback that would cost me far more than spending an extra few cents on the right connector.
There are probably alot of analogies for this, just one I can think of is a fuse or circuit breaker. Say an appliance calls for a 3A fuse and the device pulls say .5A doing basic stuff but draws 2.5A doing other less frequent stuff. The spec'd 3A fuse will work all the time. But say you did not have a 3A fuse and decided, oh, I will just use a 2A fuse and it will work fine. Well, it would as long as the device did basic stuff at .5A but when the device did advanced stuff for which it is capable, your 2A fuse pops. Same with the satellite, the 1G connectors may work fine for alot of the stuff, but you may well get bit later doing other stuff.
Ok, /soapbox
beelzerob
Senior Member
Ya, that's kind of a recurring theme I have to keep reminding myself....after all this work of pulling wire and all that, I still seem to get all worked up about saving a total of maybe $10 by choosing more questionable pieces. It's a sickness....
So, those connectors that join 2 f-connectors, those have GHz ratings? Or again, does anyone have some kind of patch panel they'd recommend? I'd rather every cable be plugged in somewhere than have dozens of cables connected end to end and hanging from the ceiling.
It's a sickness....So, those connectors that join 2 f-connectors, those have GHz ratings? Or again, does anyone have some kind of patch panel they'd recommend? I'd rather every cable be plugged in somewhere than have dozens of cables connected end to end and hanging from the ceiling.
mustangcoupe
Senior Member
In reality all F connectors will work up at those frequencies... BUT what you may find is one (which is rated there) it a better quality, maybe smaller tolerances and or gold contacts ect... you may have less loss at the higher frequencies with better connectors. With home runs it may not make a difference unless you are already on the fringe of loosing the signal, because your not splitting it over and over again as you go.
One thing to pay close attention to is coax cable, splitters and amplifiers!
One thing to pay close attention to is coax cable, splitters and amplifiers!
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
Hi Beelzerob,
I bought the same tool and put a few connectors on today with apparent success.
I also recall reading about the 3ghz ratting but am positive that was for the connector piece (female/female) that does in the pathpanel or in the wallplate/keystone.
I been trying to find out about flaring and such...trying to figure out what to 'pull back.
Is it correct that for a RGQS there is the jacket, then an outer braid, a foil, an innet braid, then another foil, then the foam then the core?
Do i pull all of it back (i.e. fold it over backwards)? Or can i leave the most inner foil, it seems to stick to the dielectric foam?
Beelze..if your flaring tool the same tiangular thing i have? I am not sure how to use it...so far i use the '6' end and after trimming i use it to slide right over the foam (white) core and 'loosen' up the braids and foils...then i fold then over backwards, slide on the compreesion fitting and use the compression tool...
I hope i'm doing it right..so far it seems pretty easy...i have reduced the cutting depth of the blade that only cutes the jacket...i noticed it looked like there was much more inner braid than outer braid and suspected i was cutting a good bit of the outer braid..i dailed it back a bit and tried again and there's more outer braid and the jacket still comes off clean...i'll probably dial it back some more to preserve as much braid as i can while still properly cutting the jacket..
Next stop...RJ45 ..
I bought the same tool and put a few connectors on today with apparent success.
I also recall reading about the 3ghz ratting but am positive that was for the connector piece (female/female) that does in the pathpanel or in the wallplate/keystone.
I been trying to find out about flaring and such...trying to figure out what to 'pull back.
Is it correct that for a RGQS there is the jacket, then an outer braid, a foil, an innet braid, then another foil, then the foam then the core?
Do i pull all of it back (i.e. fold it over backwards)? Or can i leave the most inner foil, it seems to stick to the dielectric foam?
Beelze..if your flaring tool the same tiangular thing i have? I am not sure how to use it...so far i use the '6' end and after trimming i use it to slide right over the foam (white) core and 'loosen' up the braids and foils...then i fold then over backwards, slide on the compreesion fitting and use the compression tool...
I hope i'm doing it right..so far it seems pretty easy...i have reduced the cutting depth of the blade that only cutes the jacket...i noticed it looked like there was much more inner braid than outer braid and suspected i was cutting a good bit of the outer braid..i dailed it back a bit and tried again and there's more outer braid and the jacket still comes off clean...i'll probably dial it back some more to preserve as much braid as i can while still properly cutting the jacket..
Next stop...RJ45 ..
Steve
Senior Member
Yep, I agree - usually it is the connectors that have female components, like splitters. Don't try to use a splitter on satellite - you need a multiswitch. And for HD cable, you DO need a splitter rated at least 2Ghz.
beelzerob
Senior Member
Next stop...RJ45 ..
To me, RJ45's are cake compared to coax....
I have whatever flaring tool comes with the Paladin kit. I haven't used any of those yet. The kit came with some connectors that I could put to use, but I honestly haven't identified yet what needs to be connected first....
Ranger Digital
Active Member
Beez are you serious??? I can knock out three coax in the time it takes to do on rj45. I use this tool to strip:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none
Only 25 bucks but worth a 100! Then fold back the crapola and push on the compression fitting, insert in tool and bam, done. RJ45s are a hassle with them tiny little wires. If you dont have that tool, get it and you will change your mind on rj45s lol
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none
Only 25 bucks but worth a 100! Then fold back the crapola and push on the compression fitting, insert in tool and bam, done. RJ45s are a hassle with them tiny little wires. If you dont have that tool, get it and you will change your mind on rj45s lol
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
I think i am using the proper method for terminating the coax using the compresison fittings...it only takes maybe 2 to 3 mintes per connection...
Foldering back the braid/foil is the most time consuming...
Foldering back the braid/foil is the most time consuming...
First, Rob bought the fully adjustable crimp tool (if I recall) so I think you can use any brand connectors.
There IS a size difference between RG6 and RG6QS. I know from experience when the supply house gave me the wrong size.
Personally I have a couple strippers and have sized them to work well for one particular size. The crimper is easy to change, but I would still group the terminations together. Do RG6 first, adjust toolm then do RGto etc.
There IS a size difference between RG6 and RG6QS. I know from experience when the supply house gave me the wrong size.
Personally I have a couple strippers and have sized them to work well for one particular size. The crimper is easy to change, but I would still group the terminations together. Do RG6 first, adjust toolm then do RGto etc.
beelzerob
Senior Member
I did?
If the Paladin 1555 Sealtite is fully adjustable, then ya, I did. Well, that's a relief! At least those snap-n-seal connectors litter ebay, so those should be cheap and easy to make sure I get ones that are easy to work with.Ranger, what I meant was easier to understand, not necessarily implement. I've worked with RJ45's for a while now, so those are less confusing to me...but all this talk of getting the right GHz connectors, folding back braid or not, and different connectors for different crimpers, etc.
I'll get it eventually, and it'll be old stuff to me...but for now, with everything else going on, it was just another hassle. Maybe I'll go back to those screw-on f-connectors.... *snicker*Ranger Digital
Active Member
beez, got it.
use the screw on connectors only if your head is screwed off. Otherwise throw them away (except bnc, those screw ons work great)
i know you were joking too, lol.
use the screw on connectors only if your head is screwed off. Otherwise throw them away (except bnc, those screw ons work great)
i know you were joking too, lol.
I did?
LOL - You may not realize it, but yes, you did buy a fully adjustable crimper. Sometimes it is better to simply listen to wise advice than to know what you are actually doing
Specs on Paladin 1555 said:
So you did good, whether you realize it or not
beelzerob
Senior Member
Sometimes it is better to simply listen to wise advice than to know what you are actually doing
Oh BOY has that ever been my mantra.
It takes a village to terminate your wire....Similar threads
